Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-09-2015, 09:15 AM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
2004 30' Classic
Everywhere , Everywhere North America
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 9
Sliding pocket door - rail screw fell out ?

Hi all. A screw (near outside wall) of the sliding door separating the kitchen from bathroom has fallen out of the rail holding up the door. The door now hangs and is difficult to open/close. There is no way for my hand/arm to fit between 2 in. gap to replace the screw. Any ideas, other than making a hole in the kitchen wall or closet wall to reach in and replace the lost screw. Is there a tool I need to purchase or is this a "take it to the dealer" kind of issue.
The 2'in gap has a kitchen on one side and the closet wall on the other.

Thanks, in advance for any and all suggestions.
__________________

__________________
OffbeatRVing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 09:24 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
DanB's Avatar
 
1970 23' Safari
2005 30' Classic
1986 31' Sovereign
Lorain , Ohio
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,616
Images: 9
Welcome to the club I have three that have fallen in the same area.

I have purchased a right angle drill attachment that will fit in the slot in hope I can get a new screw in there. Alternatively, I will pull the fridge and cut a hole, but really don't want to do that.
__________________

__________________
DanB
________________________________
Proud Member of the Wally Byam Airstream Club #24260

www.campnova.com

The “Ohio Airstreamer -- Informal forum for weekend camping” thread.
DanB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 10:29 AM   #3
1 Rivet Member
 
2004 30' Classic
Everywhere , Everywhere North America
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 9
Thanks DanB. Hmmm...I was thinking about a right angle tool as well, but it would have to be at min 2ft long in order to reach that back screw. I'm really not looking forward to cutting any holes. Now I do have one other suggestion after looking at door slot for an hour ;( I can place 2 screws through the kitchen wall, near top, that would rest under the rail. Basically holding up the rail so the door could slide easily. I noticed the rail has a piece of wood attached to it so the screws could rest underneath. Just an idea.
__________________
OffbeatRVing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 12:53 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,409
Images: 5
Use multiple extensions...and gorilla glue the screws in place. Mine hasn't come loose now for 4 years.


Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20130911_115923_728.jpg
Views:	92
Size:	132.8 KB
ID:	253598

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20130911_113517_434.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	196.0 KB
ID:	253599

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20130911_113534_746.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	291.5 KB
ID:	253600
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 01:54 PM   #5
1 Rivet Member
 
2016 23' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
leavenworth , Washington
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 13
That's the ticket...or you could put a 1x2 way in the back ...make sure it's long enough and wedge it tight to hold up the rail
__________________
woodguy2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 02:01 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
DanB's Avatar
 
1970 23' Safari
2005 30' Classic
1986 31' Sovereign
Lorain , Ohio
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,616
Images: 9
And a special note to Airstream Inc: DON'T USE WOOD SCREWS UPSIDE DOWN VERTICALLY FOR ANYTHING!

Seriously, this isn't rocket science. Gravity + bouncy bouncy = screws on the floor.
__________________
DanB
________________________________
Proud Member of the Wally Byam Airstream Club #24260

www.campnova.com

The “Ohio Airstreamer -- Informal forum for weekend camping” thread.
DanB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 02:10 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
Pahaska's Avatar
 
2014 Interstate Ext. Coach
Hays County , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 5,822
Images: 3
I stopped by a local store that sells boat hardware and bought an 8" deck plate for about $10. I traced around the fixed part of the deck plate on the closet wall and cut out the circle with a sabre saw. I mounted the deck plate ring with two short wood screws. It was easy to reach in and replace the screw on the door rail. Over the life of the trailer (11 years), I have needed access several more times. It is easy to just unscrew the deck plate and reach in.

By the way, the cup that supports the clothes rod is actually mounted on the deck plate.

I also use a 12" deck plate in the closet floor for easy access to the water pump. Deck plates are 100% water proof and can be used in the shower if necessary.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2014.5 Touring Coach, "Sabre-Dog IV"
WBCCI #9632
Pahaska is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 02:24 PM   #8
New Member
 
2012 30' Classic
Ocala , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3
On our summer travels I lost screws out of both pocket doors. I wrestled with it on the road but was not able to make a repair. It is on my list for winter repairs. Thanks to the comments above I now have other ideas.
__________________
Kenaisalmon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 02:36 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
Wingeezer's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,709
Rich,

with such a long extension, what is the trick to keep the screwdriver bit from continually jumping from the screw head as you try to drive it?

That far away from the drill, I would think it must be hard to apply any upward force to keep the bit in place. No?

Must be hard to keep the screw in place on the bit also as you move it into position.

I suppose using hex head screws would help with both these issues - assuming there is enough clearance to use that type of screw in this application.




I haven't encountered the problem of screws falling out yet, but I suppose it is only a matter of time!

The only issue I have with one of our sliding doors is that I believe one of the internal stop blocks must have fallen out - if it ever had one, because that door goes fully into the pocket whereas the other door stops with maybe an inch of door sticking out.

It was like that when I bought the trailer (used). We can still get the door out ok so I've never really bothered trying to do anything about it.

Brian.




Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Use multiple extensions...and gorilla glue the screws in place. Mine hasn't come loose now for 4 years.


Attachment 253598

Attachment 253599

Attachment 253600
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
Wingeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 02:49 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,409
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Rich,

with such a long extension, what is the trick to keep the screwdriver bit from continually jumping from the screw head as you try to drive it?

That far away from the drill, I would think it must be hard to apply any upward force to keep the bit in place. No?

Must be hard to keep the screw in place on the bit also as you move it into position.

I suppose using hex head screws would help with both these issues - assuming there is enough clearance to use that type of screw in this application.




I haven't encountered the problem of screws falling out yet, but I suppose it is only a matter of time!

The only issue I have with one of our sliding doors is that I believe one of the internal stop blocks must have fallen out - if it ever had one, because that door goes fully into the pocket whereas the other door stops with maybe an inch of door sticking out.

It was like that when I bought the trailer (used). We can still get the door out ok so I've never really bothered trying to do anything about it.

Brian.
Yeah Brian, I suppose it would be helpful if I gave a few details!

With the handle design of the Milwaukee angle tool, you take a long 1 by 2 or 2 by 4 and angle it from the floor at the pocket opening. Have a helper wedge it up into the handle crotch while you operate the driver drill. I siliconed the screw head to the phillips bit to hold it in place and applied gorilla glue to the threads on all the screws.

My stop block also fell off, so while I was in there i wiggled it back in place with two sticks (operated like chop sticks, sorta) and drove two screws into it from the bathroom side of the wall. I got some of the same white screw head caps, like are at the top of the pocket walls in the bedroom. I went ahead and did the same repair to the bedroom pocket door as well, as a pre-preemptive strike. That one is easier. Remove all the screws at the top of the pocket wall in the bedroom. You can then tilt that wall enough to get your hands in there without removing the entire wall.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 02:53 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,409
Images: 5
Actually, now that I review the picture, I did use a hex head in the farthest hole. As I recall, the hex interfered with the door rollers on the two closer ones, but doesn't roll all the way back to the farthest one.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 03:03 PM   #12
3 Rivet Member
 
2004 30' Classic
Hillsborough , New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 190
sliding pocket door

Quote:
Originally Posted by OffbeatRVing View Post
Hi all. A screw (near outside wall) of the sliding door separating the kitchen from bathroom has fallen out of the rail holding up the door.

Thanks, in advance for any and all suggestions.

I also have a 2004 Classic and had that issue of the pocket door between the bathroom and bedroom. I called Airstream and they told me what to do. I was able to fix the problem pretty quickly. Your pocket door issue might be more problematic so I would be interested to see how you fixed that problem. wolf146
__________________
wolf146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 03:22 PM   #13
retired USA/USAF

 
2001 30' Excella
Somerset , New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,157
I have a sliding door but without the pocket. When I remove the door the overhead track is easy to get to. I did need to put a larger screw in. From the looks of the above PIX I'm glad to NOT have any pocket doors. I do like the deck plate solution. Lots of good ideas pop up here on the forum. Keep up the good work
__________________
Roger in NJ

" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948

TAC - NJ 18

polarlyse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 05:09 PM   #14
Rivet Master
 
Wingeezer's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,709
Great tips Rich, thanks - I'll be all set now if I need to undertake a similar repair!

That Gorilla glue is good stuff - the one that you activate with water. I also use their version of crazy glue often - it works well for many jobs and has some flexibilty component added.


Brian.




Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Yeah Brian, I suppose it would be helpful if I gave a few details!

With the handle design of the Milwaukee angle tool, you take a long 1 by 2 or 2 by 4 and angle it from the floor at the pocket opening. Have a helper wedge it up into the handle crotch while you operate the driver drill. I siliconed the screw head to the phillips bit to hold it in place and applied gorilla glue to the threads on all the screws.

My stop block also fell off, so while I was in there i wiggled it back in place with two sticks (operated like chop sticks, sorta) and drove two screws into it from the bathroom side of the wall. I got some of the same white screw head caps, like are at the top of the pocket walls in the bedroom. I went ahead and did the same repair to the bedroom pocket door as well, as a pre-preemptive strike. That one is easier. Remove all the screws at the top of the pocket wall in the bedroom. You can then tilt that wall enough to get your hands in there without removing the entire wall.
__________________

__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
Wingeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rub Rail, Rub Rail 'where art thou?' Radman Clearcoat, Exterior Paint & Trim 18 08-09-2017 09:27 PM
Sliding screen door for the sliding door! weirdstuff Sprinter and B-van Forum 29 02-28-2014 09:19 PM
How to tighten loose pocket door? tkoch General Interior Topics 1 09-04-2005 05:50 PM
Pocket Door vs. Accordion (folding) Door A/S Interior pap Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 12 03-10-2005 05:40 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.