|
|
06-26-2017, 04:50 PM
|
#21
|
Rivet Master
1988 25' Excella
1987 32' Excella
Knoxville
, Tennessee
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,118
|
"For $30 bucks and you are crying
Just get a new one and place a nope on your interior mirror to UNPLUG POWER CORD"
Did not really read the post, did you? What help is a note for the power cord going to be for a dragging 7 way connector between the trailer and the truck?
And the $30 is for a part. Labor is about $130 an hour and it takes at least an hour to install. Or a bit longer for a do it yourself. Not a lot of fun. But if you do it in a parking lot you will get lots of offers to help. People were really nice and several experienced people offered suggestions.
|
|
|
06-26-2017, 06:14 PM
|
#22
|
4 Rivet Member
2022 27' Globetrotter
Asheville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 396
|
I'll add my two cents.
When you get the butt splices, get the kind with solder inside and shrink tubing on the outside. Crimp well. Heat and watch the solder flow to complete your joint and shrink around the splice.
Great idea to replace the cable. That's what I'd do because of the possibility that I'd have a problem down the road with the electric brake wire. Then again, I'd look at it as a Saturday well spent with time to get to know the systems involved. Most people don't see it that way thus the splice suggestion.
Now you know all the options.
Please Let us know what you decided to do.
|
|
|
06-26-2017, 06:58 PM
|
#23
|
Rivet Master
1988 25' Excella
1987 32' Excella
Knoxville
, Tennessee
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,118
|
Repace the cable how? I was afraid to take my trailer apart to attempt to find the termination of the cable. not sure there is one. I did replace the cable. But by splicing a new length to the existing cable outside of the trailer. How do you "replace the cable". I am willing to do it if I could figure out how on a finished, working trailer.
|
|
|
06-26-2017, 07:52 PM
|
#24
|
Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,740
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M.
Repace the cable how? I was afraid to take my trailer apart to attempt to find the termination of the cable. not sure there is one. I did replace the cable. But by splicing a new length to the existing cable outside of the trailer. How do you "replace the cable". I am willing to do it if I could figure out how on a finished, working trailer.
|
Hi
Simple way to replace the cable:
Cut off your existing cable so it still makes it easily to your battery box.
Get a new cable
Get a >= 7 lug terminal strip. Randomly chosen example:
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Positi...terminal+strip
Strip all the ends of the cables and swage on connectors that go with the terminal strip. Again randomly chosen example:
https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Insulate...rimp+terminals
Random crimp tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Prof...rds=crimp+tool
Sort out the leads using the ohm meter function on your multmeter and the old cable. Random multimeter:
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Multi...rds=multimeter
Screw the cables down to the terminal strip. Check the function (plug in the TV and check the lights).
Mount the terminal strip in the battery box.
Not quite "easy", but not impossible either. Most certainly less than an hour for your local electrician.
Bob
|
|
|
06-26-2017, 08:11 PM
|
#25
|
Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M.
Repace the cable how? I was afraid to take my trailer apart to attempt to find the termination of the cable. not sure there is one. I did replace the cable. But by splicing a new length to the existing cable outside of the trailer. How do you "replace the cable". I am willing to do it if I could figure out how on a finished, working trailer.
|
I don't know your 88 or 87 trailers (if I understand your profile correctly) but in my 2012 27FB the 7-pin starts under the bed. It looks like I'd have to take some stuff apart the get in there to connect it but probably an afternoon's work. Probably not more than an hour for a real technician or my local RV shop.
|
|
|
06-26-2017, 10:46 PM
|
#26
|
:SPACE A" S/O 11 Air19745
2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,766
|
Been there done that in 10 degree weather in Wichita, KS. That made me come up with a safety wire tie loop on the plug. When installed on the tow vehicle run the breakaway lanyard through the wire tie loop to the truck so that when the plug "falls" out it won't go anywhere. I have also broken plugs when the pigtail was a tad too short. I too, find the truck socket lids not fitting good. Be sure and push the plug in extra hard before closing the lid down on it. So far, rerouting the pigtail has solved the problem. If you need a longer pigtail Hensley sells an extension or you can make one.
guskmg
|
|
|
06-27-2017, 07:43 PM
|
#27
|
1 Rivet Member
Rochester
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 5
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirstreamCSH
I'll add my two cents.
When you get the butt splices, get the kind with solder inside and shrink tubing on the outside. Crimp well. Heat and watch the solder flow to complete your joint and shrink around the splice.
Great idea to replace the cable. That's what I'd do because of the possibility that I'd have a problem down the road with the electric brake wire. Then again, I'd look at it as a Saturday well spent with time to get to know the systems involved. Most people don't see it that way thus the splice suggestion.
Now you know all the options.
Please Let us know what you decided to do.
|
Thanks all for the help. Turns out in a "6 degrees of separation" way that I am connected to a guy who works on hitches and trailers. Even the AS dealer suggested it could be done by most folks who work on trailers and hitches. So, I will use my Saturday in other ways and just take it to my "friend of a friend" and let him replace it. Thanks again all. It's nice going into conversations with mechanic types with a bit more knowledge and knowing the right questions to ask! Hope to be on the road with my Base Camp for the holiday weekend. [emoji1303]
|
|
|
06-27-2017, 09:13 PM
|
#28
|
Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rk3326
Thanks all for the help. Turns out in a "6 degrees of separation" way that I am connected to a guy who works on hitches and trailers. Even the AS dealer suggested it could be done by most folks who work on trailers and hitches. So, I will use my Saturday in other ways and just take it to my "friend of a friend" and let him replace it. Thanks again all. It's nice going into conversations with mechanic types with a bit more knowledge and knowing the right questions to ask! Hope to be on the road with my Base Camp for the holiday weekend. [emoji1303]
|
Good to hear! Now make sure you have enough slack for turning without dragging on the ground and I'm not sure what you meant in your original post by "tucking" the cable somewhere but I suspect that move may have something to do with the splice in the first place.
Good luck!
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 07:40 PM
|
#29
|
Ready-to-Travel
2012 30' International
Walkerton
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,168
|
No help for the OP, but a testimonial for the Good Sam ERS. I was homeward bound (to VA) in OK when I noticed that my umbilical was disconnected. I pulled off I-40 at an exit and found that the cable had dragged half away. I likely did not secure it properly.
I called the Emergency Road Service, described the problem and asked if they could find a repair shop on my route. They did so, found a shop about a half hour further along and said they would be waiting for me.
I pulled in, backed into the shop and was placed back in service in less than an hour.
Very satisfied customer of both the shop and the ERS.
Pat
__________________
--------------------------------------
Somebody, please, point me to the road.
AIR 3987
TAC VA-2
WBCCI 4596
|
|
|
06-29-2017, 05:25 PM
|
#30
|
1 Rivet Member
Rochester
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 5
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob
Hi
One possible way to go:
Grab a terminal block and mount it someplace like the battery box. Run the remains of the existing cable up to it. Mate to the new cable at that block. This eliminates a lot of splicing and taping hassle. As mentioned above, the cable likely will need to be replaced again in the future.
Bob
|
Hi Uncle Bob, trailer guy said that a junction box is the best way to go! Well spotted!
Robyn
|
|
|
06-29-2017, 06:38 PM
|
#31
|
Rivet Master
1976 31' Sovereign
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,017
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob
|
Simply connect leads on car end by connecting from one to other cable , no meter needed. On 76 AS trailer end plugs in outside so cable is removable in one piece with connectors each end.
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|