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10-20-2015, 06:28 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
2012 23' FB International
Warrington
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 57
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Screws.....
Is it normal to constantly find screws that need to be tighten, or put back in? I guess traveling with he AS let's them rattle loose?
Is it safe to use Loctite on the screws?
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10-20-2015, 07:04 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,989
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Yes, screws can vibrate loose. I used Loctite on the screws I used during our refurb, and I see no reason for you to not use it.
Chris
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10-20-2015, 07:19 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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We've never had any loosen. It may be good to check the balance of your tires, and question whether your weight distribution bars are too stiff for your Airstream.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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10-20-2015, 07:24 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2015 30' International
2009 27' FB International
2007 25' Safari
Currently Looking...
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,564
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Screws
My collection is up to about ten, now, mostly from the door latches, one from the microwave.
My solution, if i can determine where the screw came from is:
Wood or particle board, I use about three toothpicks, inserted into the hole and broken off, then a bit of construction adhesive on the screw, reinserted, tightened only to what is required to secure the fixture.
Metal: If threads have been striped, a new slightly larger screw, Loctite, blue. If not striped, just Loctite.
Composite, i.e., Corian or other: May require some filler, and I have used a bit of fabric with an epoxy for the screw on my drop down tray at the end of the counter. This had been repaired twice by the dealer, finally I did the epoxy thing and it is quite secure.
So, why do we have theses problems? Think of taking your house and subjecting it to an earthquake, Richter scale 7.3, fifty times a day....
Also, I do believe the screw driver torque settings at the factory are too high, or they do not really care if the screws are striped out. The door latches are the major source of my "screws on the floor", but the concern might be screws where we cannot discover them....
Anyway, this is apparently a common problem, we learn to live with.
And, yes, the tire pressures....one of the reasons I went with 16" wheels and tires, I can now run 54 psi, much easier ride for the trailer, now down to Richter scale 6.0....LOL
__________________
Happy trails and Good Luck
Ms Tommie Fantine Lauer, Greensboro, NC
AIR #31871 KQ3H
www.fantinesvoice.com
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10-20-2015, 07:48 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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Never use screws to fasten the belly pan .
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
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10-20-2015, 07:54 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1973 Argosy 24
Kitchener
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 945
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I notice your rig is 1972 vintage. Ever had the axles replaced? The rubber torsion bar axles have a life expectancy of about 25 years. Over time elasticity is lost and rubber bands turn to hockey pucks. This leads to a rougher ride that can shake all kinds of things loose.
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10-20-2015, 06:51 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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Blue loctite is good. Red not so much in the AS because you could burn the thing down to get it out.
If it's a metal into metal screw you can also try a few wraps of Teflon plumbing tape around the threads.
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10-20-2015, 07:29 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
1961 24' Tradewind
Strasburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melody Ranch
Never use screws to fasten the belly pan .
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Why? I temporarily have my pan secured with self-tappers as I have to drop it do do one thing or another as I am using the trailer while renovating it.
I may go to large head rivets to secure the belly pan when I am "finished," but the screws are holding up fine and I refuse to waste a bunch of rivets by drilling them out every time I need to drop the pan.
__________________
"The difference between vintage and retro is that vintage is honestly old and cool. Retro tries to be but isn't."
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10-20-2015, 07:33 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
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Could be running gear ... seriously.. check it out..
Wood..if you run the screw in a bit, and it doesn't quickly 'snug' you may need something to take up some 'slack' and give some 'holding' strength to the screw shank. Be careful and don't make it too hard to screw in or you could/might cause the wood to split. I have had times I had to drill the hole, replace the wood with a 'toothpick'.. but what works good when you are 'on the road' is to find a small branch you can whittle down... it doesn't need to take up the whole screw hole.. just take up slack. If you carry some wood glue, you can wet the outside of the wood, put wood into the hole, and run the screw in... but don't 'tighten'.. after the glue 'dries', snug it up.
You can also use a 'toothpick', but, hey, what's the FUN in that?
On 'metal', same.. if loose, you can fill the gap.. use larger screw.. etc.. on metal, take care.. you don't want to 'wallow out' the hole... What I found works, is making SURE I have right size screw... including 'length'.. don't want to punch a hole in the outer shell!!! Next, use Locktite BLUE... if the screw isn't wobbly. Run screw till 'snug'.. just enough to hold the part.. If you over tighten you can over stress the threads, once the threads 'jump' once, the screw is 'loose'.
You can get some 'JB Weld' epoxy.. mix a couple of dabs with a toothpick.. then coat inside the metal hole. Allow to cure completely! you only want to 'coat' the hole inside. Push a little of the epoxy to the backside of the hole.. let it CURE... then run a NEW screw in place.
If that doesn't 'work', redo the epoxy as above. Then, before you run another new screw into the hole.. mix up another batch of epoxy... then, put a very thin coat under the head of the screw and 'snug' it down. Wipe off any epoxy..
To minimize the epoxy 'overflow', put a piece of painters tape over the area. Run the screw in until the head hits and stop. Use an "exacto" knife to carefully cut the tape as close to the head as possible. Now, remove the screw and lift out the center of the tape you trimmed. Proceed as above and you will find it easier to just ice down then pull off the tape.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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10-20-2015, 09:26 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,743
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sroach, what are you using for a tow vehicle?
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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11-01-2015, 08:45 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
2012 23' FB International
Warrington
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic
sroach, what are you using for a tow vehicle?
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Hi Lumatc,
A Mercedes ML350.
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11-02-2015, 07:28 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2015 30' International
2009 27' FB International
2007 25' Safari
Currently Looking...
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,564
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Screws or?
Just a note....while so many of the screws on my unit have been tightened to the point of striping the threads...in the substance holding them....I have just replaced my bathroom faucet with one which I can get my hands under without splashing water on the counter, and in the process I had to remove the old one, of course.
My Serenity has been plagued by the pump cycling several times a day, and it could very well be due to the fact the faucet hose connections were never tightened...I simply took my arthritic hand and unscrewed the faucet line from the plumbing. Also, I noticed that there were no turn off faucets under the sink, probably not an issue as one can always run outside and turn off water or turn the pump off.
The next thing I noticed was the water sitting on top of the wheel well, under the sink, once I removed the back of the cabinet. And, when i placed the adaptors on the plumbing to accept my new faucet hoses, they leaked....strange, however examination of the threads revealed these had been damaged apparently when installed, would not seal with teflon tape. I solved this issue with a good pipe sealing compound....
I will see if this new installation leaks, if there is new water under the sink, and if possibly I have corrected one more, "loose screw" problem in my Airstream.....
__________________
Happy trails and Good Luck
Ms Tommie Fantine Lauer, Greensboro, NC
AIR #31871 KQ3H
www.fantinesvoice.com
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