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Old 09-02-2014, 07:45 AM   #1
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Screw replacement alloy?

Removing my rub rail with numerous rusted philips head screws leaves me cranky and frustrated. Is there a problem with using stainless screws? I havent seen this subject anywhere in the forum and have been searching. I have had small success removing rusted screws and dont want to have this problem again.

So, can i use stainless? Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:51 AM   #2
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I wouldn't see any problem in using stainless - unless someone else comes back with a good reason not to, that is what I would do. I have done that on other trailers.

Were you able to get all the old rusted screws out with a screwdriver or did you have to resort to other means?

I am just about to replace some clearance lights that are leaking and have bald rusted sockets. I am not sure yet if they are mounted with rivets or screws. If screws, I'll bet they will be a rusty mess and I will be replacing with stainless.


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Old 09-02-2014, 07:53 AM   #3
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I go back with stainless or aluminum on every maintenance job I do. Stainless is relatively close to aluminum on that Galvanic reaction scale (some engineer will have to tell the real name!). Much closer than regular steel.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:09 AM   #4
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I always replace rusty original equipment screws with stainless steel. At the price, I don't know why Airstream doesn't use stainless steel in the first place.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:10 AM   #5
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Not every one. I had to drill out two and the other two I quit on. It was late last night and was tired of sweating. Savannah heat and humidity... Since I had the interior skin off i was able to get to a majority with the pliers to turn loose.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:12 AM   #6
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Makes me wonder if it has to do with sheering off due to stress. I think the hardness of the ones used allow for some stretching, but if you get any moisture... Rust.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:17 AM   #7
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No reason to over think this. Use stainless.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:35 AM   #8
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Yes, replace with stainless.

To make it easier to remove the rusted screws use a new screwdriver, place in position on the screw, whack the screwdriver with a hammer several times fairly hard (but not hard enough to deform the aluminum). This seems to break the rust "seal" and sets the screwdriver deeper in the screw. Won't work on all of 'em, but sure improves the odds.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:42 AM   #9
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I whacked mine and thats how i got two out, six from inside, two sheared off and two that remain... i grow weary of this restoration process when i bump into this kind of stuff. Family demands make it fairly impossible to accomplish during daylight hours which leaves me only night.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:45 AM   #10
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Stainless is a suitable replacement in this instance.


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Old 09-02-2014, 10:22 PM   #11
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Screws removed!!


Using a hammer and chisel to start the rotation i freed the rest. Now to complete my floor repairs! POR 15, new floor, new STAINLESS STEEL bolts and nuts. Thank goodness the iron frame is still looking good in most of the areas. lots of holes to plug though... no wonder why the floor rotted. find a lot of holes under the the rail.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:34 PM   #12
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Here you go guys: stainless for everything unless an aluminum rivet will do. Dab each screw with this prior to inserting and tightening. It is messy, but stops corrosion, thus you will always be able to remove later.
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Used for aluminum/stainless in the salt water marine environment all the time.


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Old 09-03-2014, 11:10 PM   #13
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Yep, stainless all the way, I even use them on the inside. I now use aluminum rivets on the outside when possible instead of screws. The drill out easy enough.


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