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Old 06-21-2013, 03:21 PM   #15
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That is what I am worried about. Troubleshooting later on down the line... Once I button up these walls, they aren't coming off again.
All AC wire runs are by nature 'home runs' that start at the device and terminate at the circuit breaker box. If any splicing is to be done, it must be in an accessible, approved junction box.

On the DC side, I always run both positive and ground back to the source, be it the fuse panel or a bus bar. This has 2 benefits: You have a single, uninterrupted wire run from source to device for BOTH wires and you are not dependent on frame grounds as a return path for the DC current. Since many DC electrical problems are traced to bad grounds, this method eliminates many of those problems too.

A little more work and a little more wire, but you'll be happy with the results!
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:38 PM   #16
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So you have every outlet run separately? Every light fixture? Etc.? How do you handle that at the fuse box? How do you tie in multiple outlets to the same fuse or breaker?

Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:07 PM   #17
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So you have every outlet run separately? Every light fixture? Etc.? How do you handle that at the fuse box? How do you tie in multiple outlets to the same fuse or breaker?

Thanks!
You can run wiring in series or parallel; like all lights on one side of the trailer on one run. You just have to make all of your connections accessible, either in separate junction boxes or at the individual devices.

For example, a 12/3 wire comes from your breaker box and it is to run 20 amps worth of wall outlets. wire goes to outlet #1, then splices at #1 to run to #2, then splices at #2 and runs to #3. All splicing is accessible if you remove the wall outlet. This is a series connection

Others might run a separate wire from each outlet into a junction box located in a cabinet or otherwise out of site, but still accessible. All wires from the outlets are then connected to the feed wire from your breaker box. this is a parallel connection.

I like to use screw-type bus bars for all DC main feeder connections. You can wire as above for DC also.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:26 PM   #18
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OK I got it now. The current wiring of the AC outlets are run in series. I like that setup. Thanks for the clear explanation.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:49 PM   #19
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An RVIA tech is the best source of info. I just use article 551 of the code and RV electrical component company info. And, my 62 year old Airstreams safe and operational electrical systems using Romex for the AC systems. Nowhere does it say to use Marine 12 gauge....it does say, however, to use 12 gage ROMEX....in both sources. http://www.parallaxpower.com/Dist_Pa...%20rev%20A.pdf
I do like the idea of stranded 12v and 110 v wire.
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:19 PM   #20
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It's your trailer.......use what you like! It certainly isn't 'my way or the highway!'

I merely suggest what I use in my daily professional routine. My clients demand and expect excellence from my installations and I exceed 'code' on a regular basis. Why???? Because I don't want to be called back for a problem that could have/should have been avoided with a little insight, planning and a few more $$$. The other area is professional liability.

Individual's preferences and usage often vary.........so be it..........as long as it's not MY NAME signed at the bottom of the work order

PS: A quick look at the specifications of Parallax products should tell one a great deal about their commitment to quality...........
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:29 PM   #21
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Straight from the horse's mouth. Glad I went with the marine stranded...
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:37 AM   #22
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OK I got it now. The current wiring of the AC outlets are run in series. I like that setup. Thanks for the clear explanation.
Although you are running wire from outlet to outlet, it's really parallel, not series.
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Old 11-05-2013, 12:44 PM   #23
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Good concise information so far on this post. I would add two things, first I like to run blue flexible tubing also called smurf tube in the walls before I run any wiring. Yes your inside skin is still in but I have fished this stuff through existing walls. I would drill a 3" round hole (fit with a round junction box) in the end-cap cabinet and snake one section of smurf to the roof and another down to another 3" hole (fit with round junction box) under front bench or other inside structure. By using this method if you ever have future wiring problems you can chase the smurf with new wiring and the wire is protected. Second point I would share is the use of stranded wire over romex. Romex is harder to fish then stranded.
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Old 11-05-2013, 02:21 PM   #24
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That smurf tubing is very impressive. Cleanest setup yet and future proof. I wish I had done that prior to finishing my restoration. There is always next time. Nice work.
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