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Old 07-28-2013, 12:09 PM   #1
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1971 25' Tradewind
Jupiter , Florida
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@#%$ rivets!!!

Am I the only one on the planet that can't drill out a @#!!$$% rivet ??? I am a small women but COME ON why wont they pop out?
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:20 PM   #2
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It might help to center-punch and pre-drill with a small diameter bit.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:46 PM   #3
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if you have a bunch to drill order a rivet removal tool from one of the aircraft suppliers, really easy. For just a few mark the head with a center punch and drill with a #30 drill. When you are as deep as the head of the rivet insert a 1/8 punch and wiggle gently- the head will usually pop right off. It also goes much easier with sharp bits and a high speed drill though a good cordless works just fine too. Its not about size and strength, my wife and daughter both do an awesome job.
tim
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:50 PM   #4
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Just curious, Why are you drilling rivets on a brand new 2014 flying cloud?
Sometimes it helps if we know what the project is.
tim
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:08 PM   #5
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Hopkins , Minnesota
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I will also chime in with my two cents worth. Cobalt drill bit. Place the tip in the center of the rivet. Apply a little pressure, and tap the trigger on the driver...tap it a couple of times if need be...to start the hole in the right place. And then proceed with drilling.

Good Luck!
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:15 PM   #6
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I am with Rumrunner on this. Drilling OUT rivets on a 2014? Tell us the story.

Nothing fancy required. Get a spring loaded center punch. Get the CORRECT size drill for the job.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:46 PM   #7
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I dont know why it says 2014 flying cloud HAHAAH I wish!!!! Its a 71 trade wind that leaks like an old canoe!!!!
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michele19 View Post
I dont know why it says 2014 flying cloud HAHAAH I wish!!!! Its a 71 trade wind that leaks like an old canoe!!!!
Go to "User CP" Click on Edit Details Scroll Down and change the year and model.


Simple. (once you know how).
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:51 AM   #9
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Are you drilling a poprivet or a bucked rivet (buck rivets are usually on the outside skin) pop rivets are used primarily on the inside. if it is a pop rivet then use the right size bit for the rivet and keep drilling til it pops loose. I have dealt with a lot of spinners (loose rivets that spin with the drill bit) just have to keep at it.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:02 AM   #10
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Houston , Texas
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Another recommendation if it is pop rivets you are drilling: The rivets AS used typically had a steel shank in the middle of an aluminum pop rivet. As a result, your bit will walk off of the steel in favor of making an off center hole in the softer aluminum. For these rivets, hit the steel shank with a center punch to drive it in so that it isn't interfering with your drilling.

If you are removing exterior bucked rivets, I found that the rivet removal tool mentioned above, that I bought from Aircraft Spruce worked really slick, and helped me to stay on the heads without any center punching. If you are removing entire panels, you can hammer a putty knife in between the sheets and sheer the rivets off--I've found this technique to be really fast compared to drilling.
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Old 07-29-2013, 01:37 PM   #11
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The wedge technique is what I have been doing, but you are the first person to mention it thank you!!!!
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:27 PM   #12
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I have been using a Porter Cable oscillating tool to just saw the rivets in half in places where nobody will notice if things get sloppy. I just removed, resealed, and remounted pretty much every vent, chimney, airconditioner, etc., on the roof, and the oscillating tool was indispensible, as it would saw through the rivets and the old sealant, gaskets, and layers of caulk the PO had used in vain trying to seal leaks.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:04 PM   #13
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enosburg , Vermont
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You said leaks. That suggest you are working on exterior skins, which means buck rivets. It also means you will have to remove the interior skin to replace the buck rivets you remove from the outer skins. At this point you know old Airstreams leak, normal. But, buck riveted panel seams usually aren't the culprit. That said its common for a perfectly center drilled rivet using a #30 bit to remain in place. A very thin shell can remain around the rivet shank. Just use a small moderately sharp putty knife, place the blade between the rivet head and the skin and tap with a small hammer. That will shear the head, anything remaining in the hole can be pushed through or rebored. Example, tonight I drilled out about 150. Of those about a third needed this treatment.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:30 PM   #14
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Yep-bucked rivets, interior skins already removed, nasty dried out cracked gaskets under the roof vents removed and replaced with butyl tape, and vents bucked back into place.
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