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06-08-2016, 10:54 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
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Rivet Squeezer / Dies for Rent?
Hey all,
I need to rivet our interior walls to the inside of the door frame., At more than a hundred bucks for only 65 rivets... it seems a bit silly and I don't see where I'm going to need it again in the future (unlike our regular pop rivet tool).
Would anybody be willing to rent me their squeezer and dies for solid buck rivets for a weekend? I'd happily compensate for the trouble (as well as shipping in both directions).
Thanks for considering.
__________________
Brad
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06-09-2016, 09:45 AM
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#2
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2020 Classic 33
Box Elder
, South Dakota
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,731
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Might be wrong but buck rivets don't use a squeezer. Bucking bar held against the end of the rivet and pneumatic bucking tool for pounding on the head. At least that's the only way I have seen buck rivets installed.
__________________
Gary
2020 Classic 33 Twin, 2019 Ram 3500 Longhorn, ProPride
NØVPN
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06-09-2016, 09:47 AM
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#3
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Overland Adventurer
1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
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X2 what he said^
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06-09-2016, 10:01 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton
, Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
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To the best of my knowledge ALL Interior walls are held in with pop rivets.
these and the tools can be bought cheap online if a person shops around and buys in bulk.
Superat stultitia.
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......
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06-09-2016, 10:18 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,560
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Colin Hyde mentioned on the VAP that he uses a squeezer for bucked rivets, on the outside skin of the door.
There is no way to buck them on some door frames.
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06-09-2016, 10:25 AM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 205
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Actually, soft buck rivets can be squeezed. I used them to reinstall the hinge plates and closing latch plates on my window refurbishment. I was worried about using my rivet gun and it slipping or vibrating too much around the glass.
You do need access to both sides of the material your "squeezing", so you could squeeze the exterior skin to the door frame with the door removed.
I agree with J. Morgan, all my interior panels were fastened with pop rivets.
pic of rivet squeezer below
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06-09-2016, 10:30 AM
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#7
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Overland Adventurer
1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
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Huh.... i learned something today! Thank you!
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06-09-2016, 10:40 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
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Yup - you're all correct! The bars are for the field (think panel replacement), the interiors are all pops, except for the door frame.
That uses the squeezer, since you can take advantage of the yoke (that U-shape on the pic ehodg66 posted) to sit on both inside / outside of the trailer at once. No need for a bar. The heads are placed on the inside where they look pretty... while the squeezed shafts have a nice low profile on the exterior so they'll sit under the weatherstripping that keeps the rain out from the door.
Anyhow... ehodg66's tool is exactly what I'm looking for; including the dies for our rivet profiles, it comes in at around $120 to own one. I'd much prefer to borrow if possible.
__________________
Brad
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06-09-2016, 10:47 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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What size throat, and what size rivets. I have pneumatic and manual.
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06-09-2016, 10:55 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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Here's a pic of the pneumatic
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06-09-2016, 11:17 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
What size throat, and what size rivets. I have pneumatic and manual.
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Throat size is anything more than 3/8", I suppose. These 1950s models have fairly thin door frames.
As for the rivets, I bought them long ago and had to look it up again on Vintage Trailer supply. Seems I chose the modified brazier head: 5/32" diameter by 1/2" long. (VTS 826L)
VTS says on their squeezer page that I'll need these dies:
- VTS-690 (cupped/domed shape die)
- VTS-689 (flat/flush shape die)
However, the corresponding page no longer lists those same part numbers, so if you're familiar with these rivets I'd happily defer to your expertise.
__________________
Brad
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06-09-2016, 12:01 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Here's a pic of the pneumatic
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That looks like quite a bigger "argument" than I need, frankly.
However, I think the manual version (assuming you have the correct dies, or I could buy and give them to you) would be fantastic for these 65 little holes around the door.
__________________
Brad
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06-09-2016, 01:08 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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I do not have dies for the Brazier head rivets as they are obsolete in the aviation community. They have be replaced with the MS20470 Universal. PM me
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06-09-2016, 02:48 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1960 33' Custom
Athens
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,373
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Whilst I do have a squeezer and all the dies, I found the existing holes were too close to the frame in many places. Luckily I had a plan B which is nice and simple. I used Knipex (AKA super pliers) the medium 10" version, to squeeze the rivets. The head does become deformed (flattened somewhat) but the end result was great. The Knipex are very useful for this type of ad hoc task as the jaws get really really close in to corners and have no problem parallel closing to squish little rivets up to about an 1/8" especially if they are A soft alloy.
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1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
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06-09-2016, 03:25 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus
I used Knipex (AKA super pliers) the medium 10" version, to squeeze the rivets. The head does become deformed (flattened somewhat) but the end result was great...
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Wow! Hadn't given that any thought, but it does sound like a good Plan B. Never heard of Knipex, but sounds like it may be a useful tool in the tool box whether I use it for this or not!
__________________
Brad
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06-09-2016, 03:35 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1960 33' Custom
Athens
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,373
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Yhey are really useful. Disclaimer, I would never use them to tighten bolts on an airplane but they are superb for holding parts whilst working on them and squeezing things because of their parallel jaws.
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1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
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06-09-2016, 04:02 PM
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#17
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Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus
Whilst I do have a squeezer and all the dies, I found the existing holes were too close to the frame in many places. Luckily I had a plan B which is nice and simple. I used Knipex (AKA super pliers) the medium 10" version, to squeeze the rivets. The head does become deformed (flattened somewhat) but the end result was great. The Knipex are very useful for this type of ad hoc task as the jaws get really really close in to corners and have no problem parallel closing to squish little rivets up to about an 1/8" especially if they are A soft alloy.
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My experience was like Truckasaurus. I have the equipment but was unable to use it because the holes were too close to the door frame. In your picture, there is not enough clearance to use this squeezer tool. I bucked mine with a regular bucking gun. The squeezer tool works great around compartment doors and such but not for the door application unless your rivet holes are closer to the inside edge.
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06-10-2016, 07:41 PM
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#18
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2020 Classic 33
Box Elder
, South Dakota
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,731
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Brad, thanks for the info. I've seen those squeezers before but never associated them with bucked rivets.
__________________
Gary
2020 Classic 33 Twin, 2019 Ram 3500 Longhorn, ProPride
NØVPN
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06-10-2016, 10:23 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reinergirl
...The squeezer tool works great around compartment doors and such but not for the door application unless your rivet holes are closer to the inside edge.
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Wow, thanks for the tip! I did buy a pair of Knipex wrench this afternoon at a local up$cale hardware store, so I'll test out a few tomorrow and see if this wrench will let me clench the solid rivets without deforming the heads too badly.
I'll post an update with photos when I'm happy with the results.
__________________
Brad
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06-10-2016, 10:24 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghaynes755
Brad, thanks for the info. I've seen those squeezers before but never associated them with bucked rivets.
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You bet, Gary.
__________________
Brad
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