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Old 06-09-2016, 04:25 PM   #15
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I used Knipex (AKA super pliers) the medium 10" version, to squeeze the rivets. The head does become deformed (flattened somewhat) but the end result was great...
Wow! Hadn't given that any thought, but it does sound like a good Plan B. Never heard of Knipex, but sounds like it may be a useful tool in the tool box whether I use it for this or not!
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Old 06-09-2016, 04:35 PM   #16
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Yhey are really useful. Disclaimer, I would never use them to tighten bolts on an airplane but they are superb for holding parts whilst working on them and squeezing things because of their parallel jaws.
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Old 06-09-2016, 05:02 PM   #17
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Whilst I do have a squeezer and all the dies, I found the existing holes were too close to the frame in many places. Luckily I had a plan B which is nice and simple. I used Knipex (AKA super pliers) the medium 10" version, to squeeze the rivets. The head does become deformed (flattened somewhat) but the end result was great. The Knipex are very useful for this type of ad hoc task as the jaws get really really close in to corners and have no problem parallel closing to squish little rivets up to about an 1/8" especially if they are A soft alloy.
My experience was like Truckasaurus. I have the equipment but was unable to use it because the holes were too close to the door frame. In your picture, there is not enough clearance to use this squeezer tool. I bucked mine with a regular bucking gun. The squeezer tool works great around compartment doors and such but not for the door application unless your rivet holes are closer to the inside edge.
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:41 PM   #18
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Brad, thanks for the info. I've seen those squeezers before but never associated them with bucked rivets.
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Old 06-10-2016, 11:23 PM   #19
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...The squeezer tool works great around compartment doors and such but not for the door application unless your rivet holes are closer to the inside edge.
Wow, thanks for the tip! I did buy a pair of Knipex wrench this afternoon at a local up$cale hardware store, so I'll test out a few tomorrow and see if this wrench will let me clench the solid rivets without deforming the heads too badly.

I'll post an update with photos when I'm happy with the results.
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Old 06-10-2016, 11:24 PM   #20
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Brad, thanks for the info. I've seen those squeezers before but never associated them with bucked rivets.
You bet, Gary.
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Old 06-11-2016, 06:20 AM   #21
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I also used my rivet gun at lowest setting, and bucking bar.

Easy-Squezzy Lemon Breazzy.

The 1100 1/8" rivets are so soft I think you could set them with a butter knife.
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Old 06-11-2016, 10:36 PM   #22
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I do things the old fashioned way...The rivet set will work with a hammer against a piece of flat bar. Sure it takes 10 minutes longer but no special tools required other than the $10 rivet set tool. It may have even been done this way originally.
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Old 06-12-2016, 11:57 AM   #23
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So, here's where I'm at this morning.

- A member generously offered to loan me his real squeezer (the proper tool, all things being equal). I've have held off because of the reports from others on this thread that it won't properly intersect with the rivets, given the locations of my hole so near the rib sidewall.

- I don't have a pneumatic rivet gun (or the compressor to run it) so I've dismissed the rivet gun / bucking bar idea for the time being.

- Bought a Knipex pipe wrench and have tested it out on one rivet. So far, I'm unimpressed with the result: more of an S-curve than a mushroomed end.

I suspect this last effect is due to :
- the shaft being longer than it needs to be for 2 layers of skin plus the thickness of the rib,
- AND because the rivet isn't passing through a hole... it doesn't have the rigidity to focus the deforming where it belongs.
Next, I'll try and counteract those last two things by trimming the length and trying it in one of the actual holes.

I'll report back.

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Old 06-12-2016, 12:50 PM   #24
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Probably a big factor is the pipe wrench as it doesn't close with parallel jaws. Good luck though
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Old 06-12-2016, 01:22 PM   #25
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Probably a big factor is the pipe wrench as it doesn't close with parallel jaws. Good luck though
Yes, I can see it's not quite the same design as the ones you mentioned - it was all I could find locally without ordering (and having to wait). I'll try to calm down and use the right tool for the job.

I really don't want to cut corners on this particular issue... especially when I'm gonna be staring at these things when sitting at the dinette for years to come.
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Old 06-12-2016, 09:09 PM   #26
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Rivet Squeezer / Dies for Rent?

You could also do it the old fashion way, put a bucking bar on the head (piece of steel hammer head etc) hit the other side with a hammer and punch. The rivet should protrude approximately 1/4" from the back side of the frame before hitting with punch.
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:14 PM   #27
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You could also do it the old fashion way, put a bucking bar on the head (piece of steel hammer head etc) hit the other side with a hammer and punch. The rivet should protrude approximately 1/4" from the back side of the frame before hitting with punch.
Great suggestion - I think I'll try that next, as it sounds like one of the more straightforward options.
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