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Old 08-23-2009, 08:25 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Sugarfoot View Post
  1. New couch (planning to recover the original divan in leather, maybe I need to sit on it more first )
Give a thought to this instead. It's a leather reclining love seat. It fits the Ambassador just fine and it's comfortable!!
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:36 AM   #16
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Dacia, The lights would be about 8 to 10 inches above the lower rub rail and about 15 to 20 inches forward of the first rib on the rear and the same back from the first rib on the front with two switches one for the left side and one for the right side. The original one we have now blinds you when you are walking up to the trailer, I would have removed it if doing it again. I might still make this change I don't think it would be that hard to do.


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Old 08-23-2009, 09:39 AM   #17
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Another thing I would do while all the wiring was exposed is wire the center marker light (the one down low along the side) to the turn signal wire so it will flash when making turns. I still might do that too.

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Old 08-23-2009, 11:44 AM   #18
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So points.

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Originally Posted by Sugarfoot View Post
SteSpot, your trailer is magnificent, breathtaking! I've also chosen the Princess cooktop and separate oven, so I'm glad to see how nice they look installed. Glad to hear about the Twin Temp Jr. I hope it will heat a 30 footer as well as a 28 footer. I'll be referring to the Grand Reveal for inspiration often.

Uwe, that is an ultrafine piece of work. It is simply gorgeous. You are a master craftsman.





OK, to sum it up so far:
  1. 3/4 inch ply for floor (yes, that's what Trailer Buff uses)
  2. holding tanks big and before floor installed (will do)
  3. research the big ticket items and do it NOW (doing this now)
  4. install top of the line stuff, best quality you can afford (agreed)
  5. lots of power outlets (just got to decide where I want them)
  6. 50 amp (Uhhh, do I need 50 amp? Help, Mark?)
  7. build-in macerator pump (considering this or at least a Sewer Solution)
  8. cork floors (I've already decided on cork, YES! Just need to find the best source)
  9. replace ALL the plumbing (will do)
  10. flood lights low at all four corners (Happycampers, do you mean on the belly or near the rub rail?)
  11. LED lites down the center (seen this and like it)
  12. new water heater (planning on a Twin Temp Jr.)
  13. remote electronic ignition for the water heater (definitely)
  14. repair original Armstrong Bay Breeze A/C (wish I could, mine is beyond DOA and apparently not even an Armstrong)
  15. Marinco "twist-lock" power entrance (will check on this)
  16. replace A & E awning with a ZipDee (A&E is already off, ZipDee coming up)
  17. install modern power jack (will do)
  18. three-way Dometic Refrigerator (yes, or a Norcold, is one brand better than the other?)
  19. Solar System (at least pre wiring if not panels right away)
  20. suburban furnace with automatic piezo ignition (hopefully Twin Temp Jr will fill the bill)
  21. twin 40-pound LP tanks (already purchased)
  22. Fowler Interior - new, new, new (Elvis's interior WILL be new, new, new)
  23. Congoleum sheet vinyl floor covering throughout (another alternative)
  24. newly painted walls (choosing Zolatone colors soon but toying with the idea of at least some bare polished aluminum)
  25. P & S Trailer Service Polish and Plasticoat (good thought)
  26. professional refinish of bathroom fixtures (will consider but will probably go with new)
  27. Fantastic fans (yes, I'll have three of them)
  28. New couch (planning to recover the original divan in leather, maybe I need to sit on it more first )
Wow, that's quite a list! Lots of good info here.

Markdoane, you are a wise man with good advice that has helped me tremendously in the past. The current plan is to wire three 20 amp circuits but only a 30 amp power entrance. The biggest power draw item would be a 15K BTU A/C. Do I need 50 amp?

Happycampers, I've already seen some cool things in Costalotta, like your eyebrow lights under the cabinet toe kick for instance. Please explain the flood light thing. I'm confused.

For those who went with entirely new casework, what influenced your choice of wood? I'm considering teak with a tung oil finish, but my concern is buying a shipment sight unseen and finding too much color variation. I love the warmth of a honey gold teak but some teak can look muddy.
I don't think you need 50 amps...

We considered the macerator long and hard and decided in the end to rely on gravity instead....for the times you have no power to dump....

We have a lot of things that are powered....jack, stablizers, AC, audio/video, etc. and frankly we wanted to minimize the things that can go wrong or not work if we don't have power...

Something not mentioned is that we have lights that come on to illuminate the cabinets when the doors are open under the sink....nice.....and Uwe used Ikea drawers and pull out trash bin......

Lighting wise, we have a kill switch that turns off all the living room galley lights from the bed.....so if you forget to turn them off, just flip the switch from the bed....or if you hear a noise, it turns them on......

We opted for the 2 way Norcold refrigerator. Not sure if it is better than the Dometic but I haven't heard of any Norcold recalls.....

Uwe thought of a lot of things that would make our trailering easier and we weighed each in terms of cost and effectiveness. He really has a good handle on the pros and cons--because there is no free lunch....

About the wood.....because we have a lot of aluminum inside that can be considered cold, we wanted to warm it up with the wood.....I wanted to keep it light but we were attracted to darker woods as well...as a compromise we considered using zebra wood but in the end, we did not because it looked like a compromise and really did not work. If you look at the David Winnick 75th Anniversary Bambi's you will see a wonderful dark wood finish....

Good luck with your redo.....am sure you will be as thrilled as we are.....paula
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:27 PM   #19
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I'm going to disagree with SteSpot on the 50 amps in the previous post. I had a long reply, but the electrons this morning poofed it away -

Basically, what I had written was how indispensable I have found the extra 20 amps to be.


I brought a separate 20 amp service into a receptical in the bathroom. We use this additional 20 amps for:
  • Combo electric/gas water heater (unlimited hot water with both power sources going at the same time).
  • Extra heavy duty hair dryers for the female gender campers.
  • Extra electric heaters for morning showers or cold weather camping.
  • Future use (not yet installed) smaller, quieter AC (additional to the primary AC) in place of the rear bedroom vent. The original AC still works about as good as ever, but here in the south during the summer one AC really does not cut it - especially if you do not have a shaded campsite.
Also installed a combo switch/voltage/power indicator just for the 3-way charger (get rid of the univolt, if you haven't already). There are plenty of times I prefer to keep the trailer hooked up to the grid here at the house, but do not necessarily want to keep power to the charger.
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:31 PM   #20
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You are right

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I'm going to disagree with SteSpot on the 50 amps in the previous post.
I should have said. We don't need 50 amps...paula
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:53 PM   #21
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It never hurts to wire for more amperage....

You can always use less but you would be wired for more like having a washer/dryer, run the AC and the electric boost on the twin temp at the same time or who knows what you might want in the future.....we were looking to be able to boondock and minimize our power needs--many state parks don't have hook ups--that is one reason for the gas oven instead of convection microwave. But again, this is what we wanted and may not be for everyone-that is what is so great about building your own trailer.

I am not sure about the cost differential between wire for 50 amp versus 30 amp....perhaps Uwe could answer that.

paula
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:05 PM   #22
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You can always use less but you would be wired for more like having a washer/dryer, run the AC and the electric boost on the twin temp at the same time or who knows what you might want in the future.....we were looking to be able to boondock and minimize our power needs--many state parks don't have hook ups--that is one reason for the gas oven instead of convection microwave. But again, this is what we wanted and may not be for everyone-that is what is so great about building your own trailer.

I am not sure about the cost differential between wire for 50 amp versus 30 amp....perhaps Uwe could answer that.

paula
I've seen your trailer fairly recently, and it looks a lot better than those photos..
As for wiring for 50 amp, if you have the interior of the trailer ripped apart, it won't make a whole lot of difference to wire for 50 amp, you'd just need the breaker box, and run a few more wires. Some more labor cost, but not like trying to retrofit into a coach that's all together inside.
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:47 PM   #23
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I should have taken it to Jackson Center and had the Mother Ship do it right, from the get-go.

I spent way too much money with the company who did my restoration and, given what I spent, I could have had a brand new 1971 Sovereign, courtesy of Airstream. Four years later, I'm finding that the repairs the restoration company did were poorly done and I'm fixing them again, myself this time, little by little.

The one lesson I learned from all of this is that you need to do your homework, before you entrust your baby and your dollars to someone who labels themselves an "Airstream Expert". Arrogance and egocentrism, I can do without.
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:31 PM   #24
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All of you are helping, thanks!

Much appreciation for the clarifications. Paula, I really like all of those extra touchs with the lighting. Marvin, I also like the idea of clearance markers functioning as turn signals. These older Airstreams aren't that well lit, even with LED lamps.

I see the point on 50 amps. The Twin Temp will have the electric option and, since I could well take my job on the road for months at a time, a washer/dryer combo is in the plans. Makes sense to power up now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteSpot View Post
Uwe thought of a lot of things that would make our trailering easier and we weighed each in terms of cost and effectiveness. He really has a good handle on the pros and cons--because there is no free lunch . . . Good luck with your redo.....am sure you will be as thrilled as we are.....paula
Quote:
Originally Posted by StingrayL82 View Post
I should have taken it to Jackson Center and had the Mother Ship do it right, from the get-go.

I spent way too much money with the company who did my restoration and, given what I spent, I could have had a brand new 1971 Sovereign, courtesy of Airstream. Four years later, I'm finding that the repairs the restoration company did were poorly done and I'm fixing them again, myself this time, little by little.

The one lesson I learned from all of this is that you need to do your homework, before you entrust your baby and your dollars to someone who labels themselves an "Airstream Expert". Arrogance and egocentrism, I can do without.
All good points. No free lunch is absolutely right. I could also buy brand new with lots of options for what I'm putting into this trailer. However, THIS trailer is the one I want.

Stingray, I'm sorry your resto experience was disappointing. You are oh so right about doing your homework. Based on work I'd seen and talking with several happy customers, I picked out my restorer before I even found the trailer. I have complete confidence in in my choice. It certainly does take a lot of trust.

OK anyone else out there want to add anything? I'm trying to do like 87MH says, "Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:18 PM   #25
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Oh, I am seeing a 68 overlander in my future - God help me.

I think Uwe's work is exceptional, too bad he's on the West Coast. SteSpot, really like the cabinetry especially the notches used instead of pulls. I notice the choices maximize every inch of space.

In my 2006 there is SO much waste space for hardware and drawer glides it's nearly criminal. A drawer with a 12 inch front has 9 inches usable storage inside... come ON. I've got a narrow pantry (25 FB) but the odd thing I notice is that the stove is offset almost six inches from the pantry. Now why didn't they cut that pantry off at countertop height and make it wider? Snuggle it right up to the stove?

Shackman, that loveseat/recliner looks positively DECADENT. Do they make it in RED?

Paula
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:46 PM   #26
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Hey, '67 is the year for Overlanders... it's the aluminum wiring that really pushes us to go the extra mile.

I agree with Stingray. Our first experience with a renovation shop was something less than what we had hoped. The Overlander is currently at P&S Trailer Service and we couldn't be happier. Once we get the frame/floor/axle work done, the old girl will be headed back for interior.

I think design decisions are very personalized. Some folks are devoted environmentalist who want to boondock with three kids... others are dedicated to campgrounds, bathhouses and satellite tv. What work great for us might be a train wreck for you... or vice versa.

I think the common elements are the same whether you are renovating a travel trailer, an old truck, a house, etc. Go with high quality components. Build it right the first time. Measure twice, cut once or in other words... think about design before you commit to a design. Remember that design is a journey, not a destination. What could be more boring than achieving perfection... we wouldn't have anything to fix.
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:52 PM   #27
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check for any leaks around the outside storage comrartments with the hinges on the bottom water gets traped under the hinge and drips in the trailer,if youll notice all the rot on the floor in all the forums there will be a storage compartment in the picture
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:53 PM   #28
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Wiring photo

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I've seen your trailer fairly recently, and it looks a lot better than those photos..
As for wiring for 50 amp, if you have the interior of the trailer ripped apart, it won't make a whole lot of difference to wire for 50 amp, you'd just need the breaker box, and run a few more wires. Some more labor cost, but not like trying to retrofit into a coach that's all together inside.

Terry I just wanted to show how much wiring it can take.....of course our trailer no longer looks like that but it took a great deal of planning and wiring to make it work right. Anyway, the trailer works for us and that is what is important. We feel really fortunate to have been able to have this trailer built for us--and Uwe thought of things we would not have even considered. Paula
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