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Old 03-29-2013, 09:00 PM   #1
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Replacing Oven Vent

I recently ordered a Stainless Steel Vent from Airstream to replace the ugly plastic one, but want to make sure I do it correctly so that it doesn't leak. Any tips? It looks a little more involved than I anticipated. I just figured I would remove the plastic one and slide in the SS one, but there seems to be some sort of putty on the backside. Just wondered if anyone on the forums has tackled this project? I've tried a couple of different searches but no luck.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #2
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As I recall, I filled the backside perimeter along the screw lines with Vulcan. I then taped off the outside perimeter and sealed with parbond.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:44 PM   #3
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Okay. Thanks Rich.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:18 PM   #4
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I did the upgrade vent as well as the water heater and furnace doors. The stainless steel looks so much better. Now, about that cheapo plastic outdoor shower panel.....
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:27 PM   #5
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I plan to do this also but mine just arrived. I also ordered the sealant kit that came with several sealant materials. Now my question and confusion, in the box is a black sheet of foam gaskets that you punch out the one you want. One of them fits the stove vent.

Question are you guys using this gasket?

Confusion - I wonder if this sheet of gaskets came with the SS Vent or with the sealant kit?
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:40 PM   #6
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I used grey butyl tape around the perimeter of the vent( over the screw holes) but before I installed the vent I used foil tape to seal off the edge of the duct work to the edge of the trailer skin, then I installed the vent, tightened down the screws and used
A razor blade (lightly) to trim the excess squeeze-out of the tape. Clean up with a little mineral spirits. No need for par-bond.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:29 AM   #7
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I did the upgrade vent as well as the water heater and furnace doors. The stainless steel looks so much better. Now, about that cheapo plastic outdoor shower panel.....
BAB, I couldn't agree more about the shower door panel. Mine won't even stay closed when driving down the road. The wind catches the leading edge and forces it open, so I had to use a small piece (very small ) of duct tape to keep it closed. Now it even looks worse. I can't believe someone doesn't make a stainless steel outside shower door panel.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:31 AM   #8
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We upgraded all we could, also. Just don't let the stainless stove vent slip out of your hands. Leaves quite a scratch.
If anyone ever finds stainless replacements for shower panel and potable water covers please let me know! I would also like to replace the plastic electrical box cover on the outside.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:34 AM   #9
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Crisen,
When I ordered the SS Vent along with the Fiamma bike rack, I also received the foam gasket sheet, so it's not part of the sealant kit. I believe it comes with the vent. Obviously, Airstream must believe all that is necessary is the foam gasket, I'm just not sure how well it will adhere to the aluminum siding. I'm just going to go ahead and use it, and them keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't leak. If it does leak then I may go with the butyl tape route that 0557 suggested (I was thinking this would be the better way to go, but the foam gasket must be "good enough" according to Airstream). Is butyl tape okay on aluminum? Thanks again for the replies.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:50 AM   #10
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Crisen,
When I ordered the SS Vent along with the Fiamma bike rack, I also received the foam gasket sheet, so it's not part of the sealant kit. I believe it comes with the vent. Obviously, Airstream must believe all that is necessary is the foam gasket, I'm just not sure how well it will adhere to the aluminum siding. I'm just going to go ahead and use it, and them keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't leak. If it does leak then I may go with the butyl tape route that 0557 suggested (I was thinking this would be the better way to go, but the foam gasket must be "good enough" according to Airstream). Is butyl tape okay on aluminum? Thanks again for the replies.

Thanks, I was wondering, since if it had come with the sealiing kit, it might have been intended for the plastic vent only. While I don't have the plastic one off yet I suspect that the flange on it isn't quite the same as the one on the SS one. I'll probably do the same, use it and see.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:56 PM   #11
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Over the years, I have seen to many foam gaskets develop voids, either from the git go, or after some weathering....same for butyl tape (although not as much). That is why I like the flowing of Vulcum and the "umbrella" of a fine line of taped off ParBond. To each his own. This has worked best for me.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:09 PM   #12
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This item is on my list to replace the JENSEN plastic exterior stove vent on the '90 Silver Streak (and I wish it were higher up as the cosmetic-only stuff is still a good ways away: i.e., "the fun stuff"), thus I appreciate the thread.

The fresh water hose inlet is another. Glad that some of the A/S stuff (even if "shiny" versus "matte) will/ought to work for this.

You can just make them out in this PO CL ad photo; stern-wards after second window from bow; high & low:
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:00 PM   #13
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Over the years, I have seen to many foam gaskets develop voids, either from the git go, or after some weathering....same for butyl tape (although not as much). That is why I like the flowing of Vulcum and the "umbrella" of a fine line of taped off ParBond. To each his own. This has worked best for me.
Well, I got lazy and just filled the channel void all around with Gray Vulkem (Trempro) and placed the vent. Trempro pushed out of the screw holes and the edges. I screwed down tight using opposed screw tightening like a wheel until tight and then cleaned the excess with cosmoline remover. If I had room, I'd use masking tape and add a Parbond bead but the Vulkem is already there.

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