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Old 07-29-2015, 06:02 AM   #1
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Replacing Fresh Water Drain Valve

My old, and most likely original drain valve finally broke off the plastic piece, and it can't fully open or close.

Is this something that is easy to replace (I am not very handy..but I try)?
If so, what valve size and brand do I replace it with, and what do I have to do to, remove the old and put the new one in?

Thanks so much
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:49 AM   #2
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It's easy to replace...but awkward due to tight spaces in which to work.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:11 PM   #3
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Most of us have broken one. It is a bit of a challenge to replace, but I've done it. Take off the wheel in front of that location. Take a picture of the fitting and send it to Out Of Doors Mart or CanAM so the guys can send you the proper fitting. Open the access door in the belly pan, and replace the hose clamps with new ones.
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:42 PM   #4
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Replacing Fresh Water Drain Valve-Further Question

Do I really have to replace the hose clamps with new ones? How do I access the 'belly pan' at that location?

I thought I could just unscrew the drain valve that broke, and replace it with a new one using plumbers tape on the threads?

Thanks again!
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:50 PM   #5
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My AS doesn't have an access panel. I'll have to cut one. Not looking forward to to having to replace it. I'm very careful to open and close it. Its sticky so I try to turn it close the where it rotates with no pressure on the end of the lever. If I replace it I will swap it out for a metal value. If the lever does break in the future I'll see if I can turn it with small vice grips to get me by until a more suitable valve is installed.

Kelvin
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BW1 View Post
Do I really have to replace the hose clamps with new ones? How do I access the 'belly pan' at that location?

I thought I could just unscrew the drain valve that broke, and replace it with a new one using plumbers tape on the threads?

Thanks again!
Well, you may be right. Yours might be different than mine. If you post a pic, I'll try to help. I suggest replacing the simple little hose clamps because, in my case, the first time I did it I reused the old ones and they rusted so badly that on the 2nd replacement I had to cut them off.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:33 AM   #7
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Pic of valve and belly pan access area. Tight work.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:23 AM   #8
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Do yourself a favor and when replacing this valve, replace the clear plastic hose while you have the area accessible. I replaced mine, hose cost $1.69 for minimum 6 inches and all I used was about 2 inches. replace the two clamps at the same time. Well worth the extra time and effort and it will last many years. ( mine got brittle and split, causing a complete loss of fresh water while we were boondocking).
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Otter View Post
Pic of valve and belly pan access area. Tight work.
So WHO's the DIMWIT at Airstream who decided to place the drain valve between the two tires???
NORMAL people place the valve near the outside for easy access, and when that flimsy handle does break, it's easy to replace.
When my drain valve broke on the previous Hi-Lo, I just purchased a new one, lubed it with silicone grease, and installed it in ten minutes. It turned easy, and shut off fully.
I also used a 1/2" hose on the nipple to accelerate the draining. It worked fine.
Mr. DIMWIT installed a plate under the AS valve which would prevent using a hose.
Anybody wish to tell me that is possible on the A.S.???
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:00 PM   #10
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Thumbs up

Repair it once and be done with it....

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Old 07-30-2015, 09:04 PM   #11
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My replacement was similar to Bob's. Here's a link. Look at posts #3, 5, 7, 10. Pictures of parts and replacement process are included.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...um-113671.html
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Old 07-31-2015, 05:28 AM   #12
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My replacement was similar to Bob's. Here's a link. Look at posts #3, 5, 7, 10. Pictures of parts and replacement process are included.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...um-113671.html
55

I emailed that seller to see of he will be offering the flange again, no answer yet.

FWIW....he also has some handy stuff for the Honda Generators, I got the oil drain extension, no more mess.

Bob
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:55 AM   #13
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The original plastic valve on mine got very stiff and had the handle break.

No access panel I don't think, so I think I would have to cut one to replace the valve.

As a temporary measure (4 years ago now!!) I was able to open the valve with pliers. I then clamped a short length of plastic hose to the spout of the valve and ran it to a new brass valve that I mounted on a simple bracket I installed just ahead of the front trailer wheel - more accessible, although I guess more vulnerable.

So far it has survived and continues to work well, so I've never gotten around to a better fix!

Brian.
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:59 AM   #14
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I don't want to hijack this post but here goes.

I will include some pictures that I hope will be beneficial to all. 1st, my issue was with the broken valve stem, That was only the beginning of this tale. I opened the access panel at the bottom of the belly pan at the area of the drain valve. Not much room to maneuver for sure. I proceeded to replace the drain valve, purchased at Ace Hardware for little $. Before closing the access panel I tested the tank and valve for leaks. To my surprise LEAKS, at the unions that were plastic welded to the tank. Then I had to cut the belly pa on the side to gain better access to the area. I used JB Weld 2 applications and good to go! The point of the post is to tell you all, it never ends!!
Good luck. BTW, an answer to one of the previous post about replacing the old clamp. Why would you not replace them when you have to go through all this work for couple of $$.
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