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07-29-2015, 05:02 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1991 29' Excella
Rockwood
, Ontario
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 23
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Replacing Fresh Water Drain Valve
My old, and most likely original drain valve finally broke off the plastic piece, and it can't fully open or close.
Is this something that is easy to replace (I am not very handy..but I try)?
If so, what valve size and brand do I replace it with, and what do I have to do to, remove the old and put the new one in?
Thanks so much
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07-29-2015, 07:49 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,658
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It's easy to replace...but awkward due to tight spaces in which to work.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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07-29-2015, 03:11 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2011 31' Classic
Nellysford
, Virginia
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,067
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Most of us have broken one. It is a bit of a challenge to replace, but I've done it. Take off the wheel in front of that location. Take a picture of the fitting and send it to Out Of Doors Mart or CanAM so the guys can send you the proper fitting. Open the access door in the belly pan, and replace the hose clamps with new ones.
__________________
Greg Heuer, Spirit of Virginia Airstream Club
2011 31' Classic Ltd. - The Silver Otter III
2013 GMC Denali 2500HD 6.6 DuraMax - Sierra Blanca
TAC VA-18 | Life Mbr ACI 1927 - Spirit of Virginia Club | AIR 53869
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07-29-2015, 05:42 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1991 29' Excella
Rockwood
, Ontario
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 23
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Replacing Fresh Water Drain Valve-Further Question
Do I really have to replace the hose clamps with new ones? How do I access the 'belly pan' at that location?
I thought I could just unscrew the drain valve that broke, and replace it with a new one using plumbers tape on the threads?
Thanks again!
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07-29-2015, 05:50 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2008 25' Classic
Full Time
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,309
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My AS doesn't have an access panel. I'll have to cut one. Not looking forward to to having to replace it. I'm very careful to open and close it. Its sticky so I try to turn it close the where it rotates with no pressure on the end of the lever. If I replace it I will swap it out for a metal value. If the lever does break in the future I'll see if I can turn it with small vice grips to get me by until a more suitable valve is installed.
Kelvin
__________________
2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
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07-30-2015, 07:22 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2011 31' Classic
Nellysford
, Virginia
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BW1
Do I really have to replace the hose clamps with new ones? How do I access the 'belly pan' at that location?
I thought I could just unscrew the drain valve that broke, and replace it with a new one using plumbers tape on the threads?
Thanks again!
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Well, you may be right. Yours might be different than mine. If you post a pic, I'll try to help. I suggest replacing the simple little hose clamps because, in my case, the first time I did it I reused the old ones and they rusted so badly that on the 2nd replacement I had to cut them off.
__________________
Greg Heuer, Spirit of Virginia Airstream Club
2011 31' Classic Ltd. - The Silver Otter III
2013 GMC Denali 2500HD 6.6 DuraMax - Sierra Blanca
TAC VA-18 | Life Mbr ACI 1927 - Spirit of Virginia Club | AIR 53869
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07-30-2015, 07:33 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2011 31' Classic
Nellysford
, Virginia
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,067
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Pic of valve and belly pan access area. Tight work.
__________________
Greg Heuer, Spirit of Virginia Airstream Club
2011 31' Classic Ltd. - The Silver Otter III
2013 GMC Denali 2500HD 6.6 DuraMax - Sierra Blanca
TAC VA-18 | Life Mbr ACI 1927 - Spirit of Virginia Club | AIR 53869
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07-30-2015, 10:23 AM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
2003 30' Classic
Stratford
, Prince Edward Island
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 259
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Do yourself a favor and when replacing this valve, replace the clear plastic hose while you have the area accessible. I replaced mine, hose cost $1.69 for minimum 6 inches and all I used was about 2 inches. replace the two clamps at the same time. Well worth the extra time and effort and it will last many years. ( mine got brittle and split, causing a complete loss of fresh water while we were boondocking).
__________________
Mac from PEI
Prince Edward Island
Canada
WBCCI #4782
"Southern Belle"
'03 Classic 30'
'10 Toyota CrewMax
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07-30-2015, 06:11 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2015 25' Flying Cloud
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Blenheim Ontario
, Ontario
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Otter
Pic of valve and belly pan access area. Tight work.
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So WHO's the DIMWIT at Airstream who decided to place the drain valve between the two tires???
NORMAL people place the valve near the outside for easy access, and when that flimsy handle does break, it's easy to replace.
When my drain valve broke on the previous Hi-Lo, I just purchased a new one, lubed it with silicone grease, and installed it in ten minutes. It turned easy, and shut off fully.
I also used a 1/2" hose on the nipple to accelerate the draining. It worked fine.
Mr. DIMWIT installed a plate under the AS valve which would prevent using a hose.
Anybody wish to tell me that is possible on the A.S.???
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07-30-2015, 07:00 PM
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#10
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Repair it once and be done with it....
Bob
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07-30-2015, 08:04 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2008 27' Safari FB SE
Pfafftown
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 918
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My replacement was similar to Bob's. Here's a link. Look at posts #3, 5, 7, 10. Pictures of parts and replacement process are included.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...um-113671.html
__________________
Chuck
Airstream - 2008 Safari 27FB SE (Sweet Pea)
TV - 2022 Ford F350 King Ranch, 6.7 Diesel, 4X4 (Big Red)
WBCCI 3823 - Unit 12 | AIR 48265
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07-31-2015, 04:28 AM
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#12
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida 55
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55
I emailed that seller to see of he will be offering the flange again, no answer yet.
FWIW....he also has some handy stuff for the Honda Generators, I got the oil drain extension, no more mess.
Bob
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07-31-2015, 06:55 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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The original plastic valve on mine got very stiff and had the handle break.
No access panel I don't think, so I think I would have to cut one to replace the valve.
As a temporary measure (4 years ago now!!) I was able to open the valve with pliers. I then clamped a short length of plastic hose to the spout of the valve and ran it to a new brass valve that I mounted on a simple bracket I installed just ahead of the front trailer wheel - more accessible, although I guess more vulnerable.
So far it has survived and continues to work well, so I've never gotten around to a better fix!
Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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07-31-2015, 08:59 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2008 27' International FB
Venice
, Florida
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 706
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I don't want to hijack this post but here goes.
I will include some pictures that I hope will be beneficial to all. 1st, my issue was with the broken valve stem, That was only the beginning of this tale. I opened the access panel at the bottom of the belly pan at the area of the drain valve. Not much room to maneuver for sure. I proceeded to replace the drain valve, purchased at Ace Hardware for little $. Before closing the access panel I tested the tank and valve for leaks. To my surprise LEAKS, at the unions that were plastic welded to the tank. Then I had to cut the belly pa on the side to gain better access to the area. I used JB Weld 2 applications and good to go! The point of the post is to tell you all, it never ends!!
Good luck. BTW, an answer to one of the previous post about replacing the old clamp. Why would you not replace them when you have to go through all this work for couple of $$.
__________________
Bill and Janice, We're lovin' it! (Airstreaming)
Airdreamers
WBCCI #8880
AIR #41310
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07-31-2015, 11:20 AM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
2003 30' Classic
Stratford
, Prince Edward Island
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 259
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I like this idea and will steal it. Thank you for the clear picture.
__________________
Mac from PEI
Prince Edward Island
Canada
WBCCI #4782
"Southern Belle"
'03 Classic 30'
'10 Toyota CrewMax
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07-31-2015, 11:35 AM
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#16
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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Glad I don't have an AS, again (there are some things I really like). Drain valves on mine are in kitchen cabinet. Fresh water just off of tank and far from tires. Almost shielded. In the older versions, behind exterior access door. That said, the city water connection on one of the old ones was just in front of tires.
These companies did study each other. Frustrating that they didn't all use the best approach after one or the other introduced it. I could list differences and we'd all know the better one.
Nice set of posts. Bookmarked.
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08-25-2015, 07:17 PM
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#17
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1 Rivet Member
2009 20' Flying Cloud
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 11
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Wow! A lot of work. Mine broke when hit by a stone thrown by the tire while traveling to AK. Made a quick fix with plumbers' caulk pushed into the broken stub of the plastic valve. Given the requirement to cut an access in the galvanized pan to replace the broken valve, I decided to see how long the caulk lasted. So far it's been 4 years and all is well. I use the pump to empty the fresh water tank when winterizing w/o problem. Ty
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08-25-2015, 08:49 PM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
1995 30' Excella
Logan
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 90
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When mine broke, I took it to the Airstream dealer in Albuquerque, NM and had them fix it. Less than $100. Money well spent in my opinion.
__________________
Charles & Annette
WBCCI # 1407 -- Member 4CU
1995 31' Excella
Dodge 2500 Diesel-Tow Vehicle
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