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Old 09-29-2008, 07:52 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by soldiermedic View Post
Hey WoodSSD,

If you were to have the capability to take the interior out yourself where the damage is, you could have a shop do the panel replacement with buck rivets, and then replace the interior yourself. It isn't that hard to do.

There is a new trailer repair place opening in MD no too far from you I hear.

Steve
New shops, historically have little to no Airstream sheet metal experience.

Best way to find out is to simply ask them "how do you remove the segment."

If they say simply drill out all the rivets, then hook back up and leave, "FAST".

Andy
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:53 PM   #16
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If it were me I would want it repaired to be exactly like it was originally. And originally there were no olympics used. I would insist it be done using buck rivets. There has been huge debate over the two types of rivets and I always return to "if olympics are so great, why does Airstream not use them to build the trailers?"
All that above is my opinion. It is mine to have as is Andy's opinion of Olympics. You ultimately will be making this discussion for your self. I feel very strongly that one is a mechanical fastener and one is a half step from being a weld. One is all out bathroom removal, and one is in and out in a day. You will have to choose.

Once again, If it were mine, I would insist on buck rivets for any exterior skin replacement. Even if it was coming out of my pocket. and once again that is my personal opinion
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:00 PM   #17
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I do appreciate eveyones opinions here. I have paid insurance all my life and have never had a claim. This is by far my biggest investment ever and I love my Airstream. I just want to make sure that the repair will be as good as new and also look that way without having any future problem. I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for. Distruaght in Carolina!
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by woodssd View Post
... I want the the repair to be as good as new...
hi wood'

IF u want 'like new' take it to j/c and have bucked rivets used.

dealer-service centers generally don't use bucked rivets because the repair takes more effort...

AND many have not learned or have access to the tools for bucked rivet repairs.

i've seen many older trailers with panel replacements using olympic rivets and some shops do FANTASTIC work...

BUT suggesting that removal of the interior is risky or will leave the trailer scarred is SILLY.

the factory service center takes out interiors and puts them BACK routinely, every day.

and the factory service center uses BOTH repair techniques (bucked/olympic) depending on owner budget.

besides on YOUR unit only part of the interior will need to come out, including some interior skin.

MANY folks have elected to have 'as new' bucked rivets used.

bandit' had his unit done this way recently, here is his thread with showntell...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ter-42332.html

u can pm him for more details and 2 ask IF he'd go this route again.

yes the cost is higher, but virtually no one will be able to tell ANY repair has happened without taking it apart again.

every insurance company and policy is unique, and wether a single claim (however big) will effect the premium is case by case....

i had a 45,000$ claim ONE WEEK into a new policy with a new (2me) insurance company...

my rates actually went DOWN the next renewal,

so don't be bullied by anyone here into using a repair approach that YOU don't want.

IF the link above doesn't answer your questions, there are plenty of other threads on this.

and IF only ONE curved segment is damaged either approach will look pretty good.

lastly IF u wait till december for the repair, the factory service center offers 20% off on labor rates...

and labor charges will be the largest portion of the repair bill.

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:37 PM   #19
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forgot to include this link wood'...

the folks from outofdoorsmart don't post much here...

instead THEY LET THE RESULTS and their customers speak for them.

however dan has put up some really nice 'how to's' on their website,

RV Tips and Tricks

http://www.odmrv.net/RepairWebLinks.php

and a nifty guide to selecting replacement panels and segments...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...els-43254.html

they obviously take efforts to do quality work,

so u might visit them and look at some repairs before deciding...

cheers
2air
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:53 PM   #20
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Go bucked

I had my 58 Sovereign of the Road re-bucked, on three panels. The only right way to do it in my mind... but others will say something to the contrary. The Olympic might cost more, but you save in labor.. the buck is not as $$$ but it takes two to put it in... the $$$ of the rivet is not an indicator of quality or strength.. if it were, in my mind the Buck rivet would be more.. and a quick trained eye can easily tell an Olympic repair job. I say BUCK IT! The debate and debate will go on and on and on. Good luck.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:31 PM   #21
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Before retirement I was in the aviation maintenance business. We used Olympic rivets routinely. Fully approved for airframe repairs in almost every application. Pricey but I worked on $$$$ jets for the govt so not an issue.

I flew in the aircraft I maintained and never gave it a second thought.

Bucked rivets are cheap and they are used extensively in manufacturing for that reason. They work great and, if you have easy access to the back of the area being riveted to fit a bucking bar then that's the way to go.

In this case you need to do serious disassembly to get that bucking bar into action so why would you do that?

mike
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
Before retirement I was in the aviation maintenance business. We used Olympic rivets routinely. Fully approved for airframe repairs in almost every application. Pricey but I worked on $$$$ jets for the govt so not an issue.

I flew in the aircraft I maintained and never gave it a second thought.

Bucked rivets are cheap and they are used extensively in manufacturing for that reason. They work great and, if you have easy access to the back of the area being riveted to fit a bucking bar then that's the way to go.

In this case you need to do serious disassembly to get that bucking bar into action so why would you do that?

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Old 10-24-2008, 06:38 PM   #23
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I sure dont like the idea of taking stuff out that doesn't have to be. One has to be very careful not to end up with it looking worse than it did to begin with. I side with Andy on this. Olypmic rivets can be spotted, but then again, so can a shabby interior repair. Jimmy
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:15 AM   #24
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I don't like the idea of removing inside stuff either but the camper went to the JC factory and will be getting buck rivets. They have given me updates on the progress and it going real good. I feel good that the repair will be done correctly and they assured me that they do this all the time.
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:20 AM   #25
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I don't like the idea of removing inside stuff either but the camper went to the JC factory and will be getting buck rivets. They have given me updates on the progress and it going real good. I feel good that the repair will be done correctly and they assured me that they do this all the time.
We got a letter from Airstream letting us know about their "over the winter" repair and storage. They will allow you to store the trailer without storage fees until April 1 of next year if you get it repaired about now. If you don't feel like taking a second trip to the mothership right now, maybe you can see if they'll keep the trailer for the winter, and you can pick it up in the spring.
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:01 PM   #26
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Thanks for the info. Our insurance is paying for the transport back to SC. We are still camping in the winter months.
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Old 10-26-2008, 04:57 PM   #27
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repairs

I purchased a used Airstream from them this summer and spent the day in their repair shop getting trailer roadworthy and their mechanics seem to know what they are doing. Watched them replace a panel and was impressed. I have owned a bodyshop for 30 years and I think I know what to look for.
Bob Adney
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