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Old 08-19-2014, 06:21 AM   #1
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1965 26' Overlander
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Refrigerator Operation While Towing

I am having a problem keeping my refrigerator on using propane while towing. It works great at a campsite on propane but not while on the road. Does anyone have any input relating to this? Thanks, Dom

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Old 08-19-2014, 06:49 AM   #2
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Have you checked the baffle covering the flame?

Have you blown out the "chimney" above the flame with compressed air?

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Old 08-19-2014, 07:14 AM   #3
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I would have a qualified RV tech look at your setup (does not have to be an AS tech, any "reefer qualified" RV tech should be fine.) It's possible that something in your system is causing the igniter to fail to work when the trailer is moving (could be caused by air movement.) Your fridge should work with propane as you are moving.
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:35 AM   #4
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I know this may sound crazy, but five years ago I had the same problem with a SOB box trailer. It turned out that the trailer batteries were totally dead. With new ones the fridge worked fine. I learned this from a member of another camping club who had the same problem about the same time.
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:58 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by msmcv51 View Post
I know this may sound crazy, but five years ago I had the same problem with a SOB box trailer. It turned out that the trailer batteries were totally dead. With new ones the fridge worked fine.
Doesn't sound crazy at all. You need battery power for the thermostat to work.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:35 AM   #6
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About 5 or 6 years ago, I had had an issue with the refer in a LY moho while heading south for the winter. I had stopped at a Camping World and they referred me to a local repair facility, where they found it to be a defective board. They changed both boards (the control one and the igniter module) and I remember them showing me that when on propane, with the cover open, they blew compressed air at the flame and the igniter immediately relit the flame. As well, make sure that the terminals connected to the modules are on snug, particularly the two ground terminals.
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Old 08-19-2014, 01:18 PM   #7
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Same problem solved: got piece of perforated aluminum maybe 12" by 18" and put it inside the outer access door to allows heat exchange, but reduces gusting during travel. Rjack
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Old 08-19-2014, 01:26 PM   #8
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Check to ensure you have adequate pressure after the regulator on your propane tanks.
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Old 08-19-2014, 02:48 PM   #9
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If you have original ref. there is a opening under floor covered with screen wire, wind will blow out flames, also these ref. did not have automatic lighters only twist spark igniters also electric. Make a scoop like on airplane nacelles, to span hole in floor, open at back angled from flush at front to back with sides closed then pop rivet on. This was a fix that I did in 1967 then everybody that had this prob. made one. Later yrs. had vent in out side cover with flame enclosed in box with heat element inside. If any one has trouble lighting with twist spark igniters, pm me with ph. #, I'll explain how to light with out spark igniter. Serv. centers or dealers don't want you to no how to do this no profit involved for them., it is very simple and very safe way as former AS factory repair man showed me how, been doing this way for yrs. Also water heaters before automatic ignition had twist spark lighters, simply use propane lighter such as for charcoal or gas grills, saves repair costs and trips to have repaired, but when lighting this way keep face out of way as with any lighting except reefer because flame is enclosed
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Old 08-19-2014, 02:57 PM   #10
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We do run our refrigerator when traveling, but a few years ago we put the AS on a ferry and were required to shut down the gas. It was a long, overnight trip- maybe 9 hours or so- and everything was just fine in the refer and the freezer. The AS was out of the sun and the ambient temp was cool, but at least I'm now confident in the insulating properties of the refrigerator.

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