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Old 05-17-2015, 03:46 PM   #15
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2008 25' Safari SS SE
Bend , Oregon
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From AirSkeen....Thank you to everybody for all the great input! We are on the road right now and trying some different ideas out. We arrived at one destination and while we were on the road, the refrig stopped cooling and wouldn't work correctly once we were parked so we packed everything in an ice chest and hit the road again. At our destination we plugged into electricity and the refrig again worked fine. As a test, we switched back to propane and it is working fine. Will see what happens when we hit the road again! I love this forum...can't wait to check it every time I get on the computer. Hope to meet some of you on the road sometime!
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:54 PM   #16
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2002 30' Classic S/O
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Some trailers, mine included, but i dont know about 2008s had a problem with the flame blowing out while on the road. A recall for another reason put a shield around the burner area. I have seen posts that said an A/C filter in the door stopped the problem as well as people who have made a shield out of sheet aluminum. Use the search function and search for refrigerator flame blowing out or similar wording.

Al
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:11 AM   #17
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1989 35' Argosy 5th Wheel
1979 rgosy 27
Danville , Vermont
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Al, is right on in my opinion. The flame is being extingquished from too much air while traveling. The pizzo igniter will only re-ignite a fixed amount of times until it quits and signals a problem with the trouble light on the inside of the trailer. My unit has a shield installed by po around the bottom of the burner stack. Be careful not to close it off completely. I personnally like the metal shield on the grated door idea better.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:19 AM   #18
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1980 31' International
Cincinnati , Ohio
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Running on gas but not cooling?

I hope I am not intruding but didn't want to start a new thread since this seems to overlap our issue...

We run our original 1980 fridge on gas the night before leaving and it works excellently. Then when we would arrive at our destination, we would switch to electric, also fine.

Recently we tried boondocking, and ran the fridge on gas the evening before. We checked the fridge prior to getting on the road, everything was very well chilled, so we turned off the gas to travel. Upon arriving, I turned it back on and lit the pilot. I did have to have my husband shield the area while lighting, as it was a bit windy and so sunny that I wanted to be sure the pilot was actually lit. We have the factory shield around the pilot light, but then just the factory access door. After several hours, the temp did not seem to be maintaining, and when I checked the pilot light, it was still lit. However, the wind was picking up quite a bit. I ended up emptying everything into coolers because the temp would not stay cool even though the pilot was still lit.

I haven't tried turning it back on here at home yet because the trailer is slightly off level (not in her normal parking space) and I don't want to damage it further. I LOVE being able to use the fridge and freezer and it was a pain to have to use coolers...

Thoughts??
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:21 AM   #19
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Your (I assume original) 1980 refrigerator apparently uses the two stage flame system. When you light it, you are not lighting a pilot light but a low flame. When the refrigerator thermostat says to cool, the flame is turned to high and cooling begins.

I suspect that you have a clogged burner from rust falling down the flu that the heat action takes place in. So, the first thing I would try is to either remove the burner to clean it thoroughly or, if that is difficult or impossible without removing the refrigerator, to blow it as clean as you can with compressed air, maybe with a small flexible tube attached to your air hose so you can get it in place.

The next most likely cause would be low gas pressure. With an older rig like yours it is quite possible that the regulator is not supplying gas at the proper pressure (11" of water column) and thus the high flame is not producing enough heat.. that is it is not high enough.

Third possibility would be a partly clogged high flame orifice preventing enough gas from reaching the high flame.

Forth possibility would be that the thermostat is defective, not allowing the high flame to establish.

Fifth possibility would be that the vertical burner column that the heat rises in is clogged. That would require the refrigerator to be removed to clean.

Hmmm, I think that covers it... there could be more though. Try cleaning the main burner first.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:27 AM   #20
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On my 2008 Classic I had the problem with the fridge not performing while towing. I had the Dometic recall performed on the fridge which is additional sheet metal shielding around the burner box. Since that was installed I have no issues with the fridge towing. After the recall and the problem went away, I figured the wind turbulence from passing traffic and wind must have been blowing out the flame and now the extra sheet metal shields the flame from wind gusts.

The recall is supposed to suppress fires that may occur in the flue to ammonia leaks if the cooling unit fails. No charge for that recall. It was performed at a Camping World location.

Kelvin
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:06 AM   #21
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Idroba -

Thank you so much for the great information. Since it (and yes, it is the original fridge) worked well the night before, I am hoping it is just clogged with rust. We'll try that first and work our way through. In the interim, I'll search the forums for tips on cleaning the burner.

Thanks, again!
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:05 AM   #22
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2008 25' Safari SS SE
Bend , Oregon
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Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions here. After trying everything, my husband made a bigger and better shield to protect the flame and now the frig runs well on propane - even when we are traveling and there are wind gusts!!!
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