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Old 07-02-2015, 10:40 PM   #1
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Refrigerator light doesn't work-

Is the light bulb blown? It doesn't look blown-


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Old 07-02-2015, 11:34 PM   #2
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My trailer is older than yours, but the switch sometimes doesn't make a good connection when the door is opened. Press the lever repeatedly and see if it comes on.
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Old 07-03-2015, 04:41 AM   #3
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I tried that after inspecting the bulb that doesn't appear to be blown.
I also tried wiggling/turning the light bulb in the contacts.
I'll stop by an auto parts place and pick up a bulb today. I might be able to pick one up at the dealership when we get the car serviced.


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Old 07-03-2015, 07:50 AM   #4
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I have replaced either the switch or bulb or both several times. I now carry at least one extra switch. I recently purchased a LED replacement bulb, but have not yet installed it. I am curious to see if that will help. On my trailer it seems to be a chronic problem. I mail ordered the switches, I think I bought 3 and am now down to one. The LED bulb is from led4rv.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:53 AM   #5
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I think bouncing down the rough highways compounds the problem-
At the dealership getting the car serviced-
Gonna walk to the parts counter and see if they have a bulb like that.
The dome light in my 1987 Mazda B2000 was that type of bulb.


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Old 07-03-2015, 08:01 AM   #6
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If there's a great place for a LED bulb, it's in the refrigerator. Try to find one or they can be ordered online. We got a packaged pair at Batteries Plus as I recall.

Be sure the fridge actually has power. The switch assembly looks pretty flimsy to me, we had the original stick "on" when the trailer was new and the hot bulb melted the plastic around the bulb. Domestic installed a new fridge under warranty.
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:24 AM   #7
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LED may be a very bad answer

Folks be mighty cautious of a LED in the fridge. You may have a model like mine (2010 model) and the factory says LED is a bad thing.

I discovered voltage on the light contacts when the door switch was in the closed position. I studied the wiring diagrams to figure out if the switch was bad and discovered there was a voltage feed to the light off the control board on the downstream side of the switch!

I was not able to find the 10W incandescent replacement bulb locally, so I ordered it from Amazon. I am guessing Camping World would have it but I was on a trip when this happened and it was delivered by the time I got home.

M.Hony, mine didn't look blown either but it was bad. They evidently get a real workout.

Here's my post on the topic.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ht-135667.html
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:36 AM   #8
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Here's a link to the bulbs on Amazon. You get two in the shipment.
Amazon.com: Dometic 200729000P 12-V 10 Watt Bulb: Automotive
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:38 AM   #9
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Got a bulb-
Not sure if that will be the problem-
I guess the switch will be the next thing to try-


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Old 07-03-2015, 09:17 AM   #10
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Thanks Alphonse for the information. I doubt I would ever put in an LED in the fridge anyway.

I learned many years ago that you shouldn't determine if the light (or fuse) is good just by looking at it. Get an inexpensive VOM and check it.
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:02 AM   #11
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I had a similar issue - changing the bulb for an LED bulb (from led4rv) solved the problem. Incandescent bulbs emit heat, which can affect the contact at the base of the bulb, which is solved by using the LED bulb.
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
I had a similar issue - changing the bulb for an LED bulb (from led4rv) solved the problem. Incandescent bulbs emit heat, which can affect the contact at the base of the bulb, which is solved by using the LED bulb.
Your refrigerator may well be "A Okay" with a LED. Unfortunately Dometic recommended strongly against it with the year model 2010 I have. They told me the 10W incandescent bulb serves a purpose and the heat it generates is used and is actually what they are after. The control board turns it on from time to time.

Just want to be sure folks understand not to arbitrarily change to a LED without the due diligence needed with Dometic. I recommend a call to Dometic with your model number to confirm all is good.
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:25 AM   #13
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Alphonse, I wonder if you can get more definitive information from Dometic (something in the nature of a bulletin or written description) and post it, as I have never heard of any refrigerator requiring that a 10-watt bulb be turned on from time-to-time. I have looked over the instructions that came with my unit and there is nothing in them relating to the inside light bulb requirements.

I should point out that I have an older AS (prior to the 1987 Excella, I had a 1994 LY motor-home). The only reference to "heat" in the instructions I have/had related to the door seal heater in areas of high humidity.
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alphonse View Post
Your refrigerator may well be "A Okay" with a LED. Unfortunately Dometic recommended strongly against it with the year model 2010 I have. They told me the 10W incandescent bulb serves a purpose and the heat it generates is used and is actually what they are after. The control board turns it on from time to time.

Just want to be sure folks understand not to arbitrarily change to a LED without the due diligence needed with Dometic. I recommend a call to Dometic with your model number to confirm all is good.
I have been using a LED bulb in my 2000 Safari's Dometic refrigerator for two years without issue.
Since the feed to the light is through a manual switch, activated by the door position, it is impossible for it to be turned on while the door is closed. Is your refrigerator light wired differently?
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