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Old 07-02-2015, 09:40 PM   #1
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Refrigerator light doesn't work-

Is the light bulb blown? It doesn't look blown-


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Old 07-02-2015, 10:34 PM   #2
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My trailer is older than yours, but the switch sometimes doesn't make a good connection when the door is opened. Press the lever repeatedly and see if it comes on.
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Old 07-03-2015, 03:41 AM   #3
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I tried that after inspecting the bulb that doesn't appear to be blown.
I also tried wiggling/turning the light bulb in the contacts.
I'll stop by an auto parts place and pick up a bulb today. I might be able to pick one up at the dealership when we get the car serviced.


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Old 07-03-2015, 06:50 AM   #4
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I have replaced either the switch or bulb or both several times. I now carry at least one extra switch. I recently purchased a LED replacement bulb, but have not yet installed it. I am curious to see if that will help. On my trailer it seems to be a chronic problem. I mail ordered the switches, I think I bought 3 and am now down to one. The LED bulb is from led4rv.
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:53 AM   #5
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I think bouncing down the rough highways compounds the problem-
At the dealership getting the car serviced-
Gonna walk to the parts counter and see if they have a bulb like that.
The dome light in my 1987 Mazda B2000 was that type of bulb.


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Old 07-03-2015, 07:01 AM   #6
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If there's a great place for a LED bulb, it's in the refrigerator. Try to find one or they can be ordered online. We got a packaged pair at Batteries Plus as I recall.

Be sure the fridge actually has power. The switch assembly looks pretty flimsy to me, we had the original stick "on" when the trailer was new and the hot bulb melted the plastic around the bulb. Domestic installed a new fridge under warranty.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:24 AM   #7
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LED may be a very bad answer

Folks be mighty cautious of a LED in the fridge. You may have a model like mine (2010 model) and the factory says LED is a bad thing.

I discovered voltage on the light contacts when the door switch was in the closed position. I studied the wiring diagrams to figure out if the switch was bad and discovered there was a voltage feed to the light off the control board on the downstream side of the switch!

I was not able to find the 10W incandescent replacement bulb locally, so I ordered it from Amazon. I am guessing Camping World would have it but I was on a trip when this happened and it was delivered by the time I got home.

M.Hony, mine didn't look blown either but it was bad. They evidently get a real workout.

Here's my post on the topic.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ht-135667.html
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:36 AM   #8
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Here's a link to the bulbs on Amazon. You get two in the shipment.
Amazon.com: Dometic 200729000P 12-V 10 Watt Bulb: Automotive
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:38 AM   #9
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Got a bulb-
Not sure if that will be the problem-
I guess the switch will be the next thing to try-


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Old 07-03-2015, 08:17 AM   #10
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Thanks Alphonse for the information. I doubt I would ever put in an LED in the fridge anyway.

I learned many years ago that you shouldn't determine if the light (or fuse) is good just by looking at it. Get an inexpensive VOM and check it.
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:02 AM   #11
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I had a similar issue - changing the bulb for an LED bulb (from led4rv) solved the problem. Incandescent bulbs emit heat, which can affect the contact at the base of the bulb, which is solved by using the LED bulb.
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
I had a similar issue - changing the bulb for an LED bulb (from led4rv) solved the problem. Incandescent bulbs emit heat, which can affect the contact at the base of the bulb, which is solved by using the LED bulb.
Your refrigerator may well be "A Okay" with a LED. Unfortunately Dometic recommended strongly against it with the year model 2010 I have. They told me the 10W incandescent bulb serves a purpose and the heat it generates is used and is actually what they are after. The control board turns it on from time to time.

Just want to be sure folks understand not to arbitrarily change to a LED without the due diligence needed with Dometic. I recommend a call to Dometic with your model number to confirm all is good.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:25 AM   #13
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Alphonse, I wonder if you can get more definitive information from Dometic (something in the nature of a bulletin or written description) and post it, as I have never heard of any refrigerator requiring that a 10-watt bulb be turned on from time-to-time. I have looked over the instructions that came with my unit and there is nothing in them relating to the inside light bulb requirements.

I should point out that I have an older AS (prior to the 1987 Excella, I had a 1994 LY motor-home). The only reference to "heat" in the instructions I have/had related to the door seal heater in areas of high humidity.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alphonse View Post
Your refrigerator may well be "A Okay" with a LED. Unfortunately Dometic recommended strongly against it with the year model 2010 I have. They told me the 10W incandescent bulb serves a purpose and the heat it generates is used and is actually what they are after. The control board turns it on from time to time.

Just want to be sure folks understand not to arbitrarily change to a LED without the due diligence needed with Dometic. I recommend a call to Dometic with your model number to confirm all is good.
I have been using a LED bulb in my 2000 Safari's Dometic refrigerator for two years without issue.
Since the feed to the light is through a manual switch, activated by the door position, it is impossible for it to be turned on while the door is closed. Is your refrigerator light wired differently?
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:25 AM   #15
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The only definitive document I have is the the wiring diagram that shows a power feed to the light from the control board that is not affected by the door switch.

By measurement, I had discovered 8 vdc to the light with the door switch "closed" and thought the switch may be bad. Therefore my call to Dometic and what I reported here.

You might want to give them a call and find out if it affects your units or not. I found Dometic to be very helpful.

Another approach is to look at your specific wiring diagram for the extra feed. Dometic did say that not all their units use this approach. If you do not have the manual for yours, searching with your model number may find the diagram published on the web as well. Mine was available both on the web and the manual. The wiring diagram will give you the answer.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:00 PM   #16
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a few years ago lewster posted about the interior light is used to warm the fridge in co ld weather to trick the fridge to cool. if i was feeling better i'd do the search and see if my memory still works :-).
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:55 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
I have been using a LED bulb in my 2000 Safari's Dometic refrigerator for two years without issue.
Since the feed to the light is through a manual switch, activated by the door position, it is impossible for it to be turned on while the door is closed. Is your refrigerator light wired differently?
Alan, mine is also controlled by the door switch. However, it also receives power from the control board independent of this switch. That's what I discovered and confirmed it by looking at the wiring diagram, then my call to Dometic. My advice is to check your wiring diagram or give Dometic a call.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:49 AM   #18
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a few years ago lewster posted about the interior light is used to warm the fridge in co ld weather to trick the fridge to cool. if i was feeling better i'd do the search and see if my memory still works :-).

Rich,

Your memory is CORRECT!!!


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Old 07-15-2015, 10:03 AM   #19
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OK, I'll bite. Why would you need to add heat to get the fridge to cool if the temperature in the fridge was low enough? What purpose does that serve, other than burning more propane or electricity? Will the ammonia mixture freeze at some outside temperature unless heated and cycled? My 2652 has the switch in series with the power feed to the light, so it doesn't have this capability, just curious.
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Old 07-15-2015, 12:14 PM   #20
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The switch is for low ambient temperatures (30s) when the fridge might not need to come on.......but the freezer does.

The 'Low Ambient Switch' is usually located on the inside of the door frame and if activated, keeps the interior light on even with the door closed.

This creates just enough inside temperature increase to cause the heating to occur in the boiler section and keeps the unit operating to maintain the freezer temps.


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