Rear leaks Classics

[dznf0g]

I have occasionally had water show up just at the lower corners of the trunk door down low at the floor. It appears that it is only while driving for long periods in the rain. The mouse fur gets wet only for about four inches horizontally at the corners of the door. I have removed the taillights and checked for wet insulation. I have checked where I can behind and above the lockers. I have checked all the interior carpeting. Nothing. I have the recessed license plate pocket and previously foam taped the top and sides of the pocket only. I left the bottom unsealed with the theory of water draining, but am wondering, since it only leaks while driving, if water is blowing up under the gap between the skin and the lower edge of the pocket.

I am also wondering about the piano hinge rivets for the door. I also wonder about blowing up under the lower rub rail and running rearward, but it seem odd that it would only be at those two specific spots.

Do any of you Classic owners have any suggestions? I have never had it leak in rain while stationary, nor have I had it leak in a water test simulating rain....but I have never tried simulating upward spraying water either below the pocket or the rub molding.

[BigAl]

If the gasket on the door leaks and there is negative pressure in the trailer it could get sucked in so that it gets in the carpet. The only time I have had a leak in the rear it was the license plate housing. Acryl R around the perimeter and it is fixed.
Al

[dznf0g]

Thanks, AL. I never find any moisture anywhere around the door seal making me think it is the door seal itself. I had thought about sealing the license pocket, but that would make changing the bulb a chore. I opted for foam door gasket tape. I may have to though. I did find enough dust on the interior of the housing and in the bulb lens to make me think there is some suction going on there while cruising down the highway.

[dznf0g]

I might add, that I have previously removed the carpet in the trunk and replaced it with a rubber foam work space floor. This makes the point of entry pretty precise as there is no wicking throughout the carpet.

[perryg114]

The plate on top of the bumper that goes under the floor in the back of the trailer is notorious for leaking. Your compartment door could also be the cause but sooner or later that plate is going to cause problems. In most trailers that plate has a lid on it and is used to store the sewer hose.

Perry

[dznf0g]

Perry, I am not sure that the Classics have that plate. These have the plastic and fiberglass bumper with the drawer. When I was at the plant, I saw a Classic sans bumper and the skin just terminates below the floor. The plastic pieces have a lip that curls up under the rub molding and it is all riveted like a sandwich. I can FLOOD the rub strip and bumper top and get no leaking. Again this only happen while driving long distances in the rain. Never while parked. I think that plate only existed on the units with metal bumpers and the hinged storage compartment on the top and between the frame members. Am I mistaken about this...the tour guide wouldn't let me get a close examination of the pieces.

Anyone had a modern classic rear bumper apart?

[dkottum]

The newer Classics use the same aluminum bumper, lift up storage, and bumper plate as the rest of the line.

I was able to check the storage compartment seals by turning on the light inside at night, and looking for light coming past the seal. Found one and readjusted the latch by bending it slightly to tighten it.

I wonder if the rear lower shell may be checked in a similar way. Shine a bright, bright light on the suspect area from the inside at night and look for any light on the outside.

[Morgan guy]

My Classic (2007) does not have the plate above the bumper. I have had a leak in the back and had the rub strip caulked and the running lights caulked also. I did find that the rear window latches were not tight enough so that the glass was not contacting the rubber seal so I tightened them. I suspect that driving may have sucked the glass out enough to allow rain to enter. I have not driven in the rain since I did the last fix. Only 0.04 inches of rain since Dec 22 so don't know when I will be able to make the drive test.

[dznf0g]

Doug, I know they changed the rear of the Classics in '12 or '13 and no longer have a bumper drawer, but now have a lowered floor in the trunk and a common bumper. They also did away with the license pocket in '12, i think. Just to be clear, this is the style I am talking about.

[dznf0g]

Morgan Guy, I am certain the window isn't the issue....no water in the sill. I have resealed the TOP of the rub molding twice since 2010...most recently last fall. No change. Lights have been sealed...and I can find no wetness in insulation anywhere. I chased all that after having 2 panels replaced at JC thinking I had rivet leaks or running light leaks. I can't find any moisture north of the floor. Unfortunately, I have been out of the rainy roads since Friday and any wetness on the top of the compartment door frame, where water would run off of from the pocket, is now dry, as is the floor and mouse fur.

BTW, the trunk door frame has been resealed with Parbond as well.

[switz]

My 2014 Classic model 30 has a surface mounted license plate holder. There is no recessed space.

[perryg114]

You can get some sticky back EDPM foam tape from mcmaster.com and add it to the gasket you already have. This stuff is what is used around car doors. It acts a lot like memory foam and it will flow into gaps as it is compressed. A harder rubber will just sit on top of any irregularities.

Perry

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by perryg114

You can get some sticky back EDPM foam tape from mcmaster.com and add it to the gasket you already have. This stuff is what is used around car doors. It acts a lot like memory foam and it will flow into gaps as it is compressed. A harder rubber will just sit on top of any irregularities.

Perry

I did take a light into the compartment last night after dark and can see some light escaping around the trunk door in a few locations. Latches are adjusted as tight as I dare. I have tried this "adding" to the gasket before with limited success over the long haul. I am going to hunt a new gasket setup. Yup, Perry, I too have found the various materials only work relatively well to various applications. A soft one is required here.

[m.hony]

The trunk door on my 2013 leaks.
The door doesn't fit just right, and the gasket doesn't seal water tight.
One more thing on the list for the service center appointment.

[dznf0g]

I found a clue. The rubber seal is retained on the door frame flange by a steel inset compression "spring". I found rusty stain transfer onto the aluminum flange, indicating water getting into the u channel of the seal. From there, it could theoretically run along the seal channel and down to the bottom corners of the seal and exit to the floor. I am looking for alternatives to the OE seal and remove it entirely.