Rear End Leak (rain)

[mimiandrews]

Our newly-acquired '66 model 22' Safari has a small area in the floor just inside the rear access hatch that gets wet every time it rains. The floor is being damaged, and shows evidence that this leak has been there for some time. PO lived in the desert, but now the trailer is in North Texas where we have a lot more rain.

I've removed, caulked heavily, and reinstalled all the running lights, the tail lights, and the license plate light. Also replaced the seal around the rear hatch door itself. Still hasn't stopped the leak.

Can anyone tell the history of such a problem? Where is the leak that wets the area at the extreme rear of the trailer--extending about 6 inches forward of the rear wall? We can't afford much more floor damage.

[overlander63]

Welcome to the forums.
Check around the rear window, they will leak down into the corners, and into the trailer. Also, the vent at the back of the trailer, both sewer and fresh air, can leak, and water can run down the curved end of the trailer, acumulating on the floor.

[davidz71]

Also check for missing rivets in sheet metal on top skin. I had water leaking near rear street side floor and rear compartment and it was a missing outer skin rivet.

[centennialman]

It would be wise to replace and caulk the new roof sewer vents with vulkem. You should have three of them. There is also a thread here about how to seal the windows in your particular year/model. Be sure to remove the old and install new gaskets around all of your windows as well.

Also, check to see if the area is sealed where the bumper storage meets the trailer.

Good luck repairing the leak....it can be done

[mimiandrews]

Thanks for your help. I looked at the three vents on top of the trailer, and the caulk the PO had used around the vent covers came off in my hand with little effort. This may be our problem. Temporary fix is duct tape and hope that it holds through the current rain (and possible Hurricane Ike aftermath if the storm comes across here).

Can anyone tell me where to find 3 new vent covers that will fit a '66 Safari? The covers are pretty cracked and ratty looking.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by mimiandrews

Thanks for your help. I looked at the three vents on top of the trailer, and the caulk the PO had used around the vent covers came off in my hand with little effort. This may be our problem. Temporary fix is duct tape and hope that it holds through the current rain (and possible Hurricane Ike aftermath if the storm comes across here).

Can anyone tell me where to find 3 new vent covers that will fit a '66 Safari? The covers are pretty cracked and ratty looking.

We have the polished metal replacements that Airstream has used since about 1969.

We also have the correct gaskets for them as well as the fiberglass screening.

You may also have a leak at the rear access door.

Andy

[purman]

Personally I like the metal replacements Andy has, (they look good) but if you want the same kind as you have you can get them here....

Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

Here's the one Andy has,,, I like it better.. and will be ordering some soon...

http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/83595-vpipecvr.jpg

[Pick]

Check around the water heater too!

[mimiandrews]

Thanks again. The rain is over, so I'll get out there and look at the rest of your suggestions. Will order new vent covers on Monday.

[mimiandrews]

I think we found it! Thanks Centennialman. It was the area where the bumper storage compartment joined the trailer shell.

The wet area was there again after the last rain, and the roof vents had been securely duct taped before the storm. After things had dried out, we used a compressed air hose to blow the dirt out of the seam before caulking it. Sure enough, air blown against the outside of the seam could be felt when we put our hand in the area that gets wet. Haven't tested it, nor has it rained again, but we're hopeful.

Now, what do you suggest for repairing the small area of floor that has been damaged by this leak?

[centennialman]

I wish I could answer your floor repair question. There are tons of threads on this forum discussing the subject and you might want to check them.

I am sure other members will post responses for you too. I haven't had to worry about the floor yet but did find and seal up the area discussed in your thread when I first bought the trailer.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by mimiandrews

I think we found it! Thanks Centennialman. It was the area where the bumper storage compartment joined the trailer shell.

The wet area was there again after the last rain, and the roof vents had been securely duct taped before the storm. After things had dried out, we used a compressed air hose to blow the dirt out of the seam before caulking it. Sure enough, air blown against the outside of the seam could be felt when we put our hand in the area that gets wet. Haven't tested it, nor has it rained again, but we're hopeful.

Now, what do you suggest for repairing the small area of floor that has been damaged by this leak?

Please post a couple of photos showing the area where the frame enters the bottom of the shell forward of the bumper.

Your almost describing rear end separation.

Andy

[mimiandrews]

Here are the photos Andy asked me to post of the area where we found the water leak. Hope I got the right shots.

The leak damage is just inside the lower left (street side) corner of the rear hatch. Replacing the seal around the hatch is the first thing we did, and that didn't stop the leak.

What is the proper sealant for stopping this leak? I've used silicone caulk, but have picked up some stuff on the forums that indicate this might not be correct.

[azflycaster]

Vulkem is the sealer of choice. It is also called TremPro 636, I think.

What the heck is that Christmas tree looking thing that is connected to your water inlet?

[mimiandrews]

That thing is a water valve--originally part of a kit intended to extend a water faucet to a more convenient location. We were using it as an emergency shut-off while we were testing a newly-installed Pex water system. PO sorta let things freeze. After the flood that resulted when we first hooked water up to this trailer, we opted to have a shutoff nearby for the next test.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by mimiandrews

Here are the photos Andy asked me to post of the area where we found the water leak. Hope I got the right shots.

The leak damage is just inside the lower left (street side) corner of the rear hatch. Replacing the seal around the hatch is the first thing we did, and that didn't stop the leak.

What is the proper sealant for stopping this leak? I've used silicone caulk, but have picked up some stuff on the forums that indicate this might not be correct.

It appears that your Airstream may have rear end separation on the left side. That would let water get to the bottom of the floor.

Silicone sealer is "NEVER" correct for the exterior.

You need to remove it "completely," making that area "chemically clean" so that Par-bond or Vulkem will adhere.

You cannot install any sealer over silicone sealer until you remove "ALL" traces of it, even chemically.

Andy

[mimiandrews]

OK, guess I goofed when I used the silicone. What do I use to remove it down to the "chemically clean" stage I need?

[mimiandrews]

OK, the silicone didn't stick. What do I use to get it completely removed so that the Vulkem will stay?