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Old 09-30-2012, 04:42 PM   #1
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2008 16' International CCD
Brattleboro , Vermont
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Raining in my 2008

I had a leaking roof in my 2008 16' international. I applied GE silicone to the rivets and seams above and around the leak area. It still leaks in a hard rain and before I applied more I checked the Forums and it seems that I should have used GE Silicone 11 which is acid free. Also, I need to remove what I have applied.

Any comments and/or advise will be welcome.

Lynde Kimball
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:50 PM   #2
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Maybe it's not the rivets and seams leaking . . .
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:50 AM   #3
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I use Vulkem 116 gray on aluminum components. I did try Vulkem on the vista window glass and it came loose in one winter. I asked my glass contractor what he'd use and he said 100% silicone. I tried it and it's worked fine for 2 years now.

I did try silicone to seal the FanTastic fans per the manufacture's directions and it failed in two winters. I removed it and used Vulkem 116 this summer. It's hard to remove all the silicone residue.

My trailer did have one outside skin lap joint that was leaking. I had to remove the inside skin and sit in the trailer on a farmer's milking stool in the dark during a thunder storm with a poacher's light, to find it. I sealed inside and outside with Vulkem and have not had any leaks since.

When I got my trailer I fixed and sealed everything and still had leaks. I finally got them all fixed. The last one that I can't fix is the step release slot. That is designed to leak every time it rains. I added screened belly pan drain holes to mitigate the feature.
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:34 AM   #4
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Our "roof" leak several years ago was due to a cracked cover on the rooftop AC unit. The crack started at one of the fastening screws and was not easy to see. Just a possibility for your problem.

Tim
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:02 PM   #5
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West Chester , Pennsylvania
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How do you get on and off the roof, presuming it's ok to get on the roof?

Any suggestions to find a leak? There is mildew from the door forward about five feet,
so I'm guessing that is a major clue. The antenna isn't needed anymore, so remove or make sure that's not the source of the leak.

Thanks, Ron (Reginald is username) New member today.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:12 AM   #6
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I just had a leak in my 05 31 Classic and took it to Airstream of NE in Stoughton Ma. They have a pressure test machine that they put into the rig and then check for leaks using soap and water. Turns out the flange under the airconditioner was cracked in two places. This flange in a A/C part and not an Airstream part. They have replaced so many of them that they keep them in stock. The sun bakes this very thin plastic so after 5yrs anything can happen.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:24 AM   #7
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I still like my approach to leak mitigation. I followed good advise given here by Andy and others. I did all the deferred maintenance like replacing sewer vent gaskets, replacing all the window and door gaskets, replacing all the roof vents, replacing the air conditioner, sealing top seams, and checking for loose or missing rivets.

I thought the television antenna was leaking. It wasn't leaking but the lead wire was completely broken off at the point of entry. Just the Vulkem was holding it. I did find 5 missing rivets right under the curb side awning roller, and several loose rivets holding the awning rail.

The leak that was hardest to locate after I did all the maintenance was a side seam lap joint that looked perfect from the outside. I had to remove the inside skin and sit on a farmer's milking stool with a poacher's light in a midnight thunderstorm to find it. It was an easy leak to mitigate with Vulkem.
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:26 PM   #8
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:27 PM   #9
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To get on the roof I used a LYNN 8' aluminum ladder with LADDER MITTS. These rubber ladder ends are curved and exactly conform to the curvature of the trailer at the top of the sides. From there I can reach to the center of the foof without actually gettong on the roof. My A/S being a Bambi with 14" wheels, the 8" ladder was just right. You may need a 10' ladder if your A/S is higher.
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