Pros and Cons of leaving c channel on during lift.

[Unka Jack]

As I get closer to lifting shell, just wondering what the pros and cons are of leaving the c channels on the floor vs leaving them attached to shell. It's a '73 Overlander. The channels are in fair shape.
Looking to hear from people that have done it either way.

[SteveH]

I've not done the job, but I would think since the "C" channel is bolted to the floor/frame, and riveted to the rest of the shell of the trailer, it's a no brainer to take the bolts loose, and leave the rivets.

[Isuzusweet]

I did replace the subfloor in my 310 motorhome so I kinda know what's going on and leaving the C channel on the shell would be the way to go as it adds strength to the body while it's off the frame..

Cheers
Tony

[Unka Jack]

Thanks for the input. I agree it tends to make logical sense to be faster easier and stronger, but from most of my reading on the forums others tend to be drilling out the rivets. I cant help but wonder if there is something I'm missing. I've got a couple of weeks before it warms up enough, and I get more time off, before I get to it. Looking to hear from some more people before I make my decision.

[Tom Nugler]

We replaced a floor on a '68 and left the channels attached to the shell. On the earlier trailers the side skin wrapped around the c channel to be riveted to a lengthwise strip on the outriggers.
From what I've seen working on my '72 is the lower skins are riveted to the c channel and wrapped around to the frame. They are applied on top of the upper shell skins. (Water leaks) The joint is hidden under the trim strip.
You would need to drill out the trim rivets, remove the strip, and then only have remove the rivets that secure the lower wrap.
The pics look like you're working on the rear end floor. Depending on the severity of the floor damage you may be able to cut out the damaged section of floor, unbolt the channel, remove the remaining ply and slide a new piece in place.

Good Luck,
Tom

[Isuzusweet]

Here's a link to what and how I replaced my 310's subfloor with the shell on obviously. I personally think the less taking apart you have to do the better. These projects can take on an epic proportion.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

If you need a hand to layout, let me know as I'm fairly close to you.

Cheers
Tony

[Aviator]

I left the "c" on our 1970 when I lifted it. It was far easier to remove the bolts and screws than all of the rivets!

[Belegedhel]

On my '73 trailer, the curved C-channels at each end of the trailer merely sit on top of the floor, so these should remain riveted to the shell, and simply unbolted from the floor/frame. The C-channels that go along the side wrap under the plywood, so for these, the rivets should be drilled out, and the channels left attached to the plywood when you lift the shell. Once the shell is off, the channels can be pulled outward to remove them from the floor. Reinstallation will be the reverse, ie., put your ned floor in place, install your C-channels along the edges, and then bolt everything down before dropping your shell back in place. You will likely have a headache getting all the rivet holes to line up, but don't waste too much time trying, just use th holes in the shell and drill new ones in the C-channels.

good luck!

[Unka Jack]

Thanks for the offer Tony. I know all about how these projects take on "epic proportions". Here's a link to the rest of my restoration to date.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ns-113780.html

Snows almost gone. Just need a few days off with dry weather to build the gantries, and remove some bolts, screws and rivets. Good news is found a replacement electric heating for my Dometic RM75, put it in, added power, and surprise surprise, it still works.