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Old 08-31-2017, 08:21 AM   #1
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2013 28' Flying Cloud
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Propane detector malfunction after…

I've been reading several threads about how to deal with the prop. det. drawing down the batteries during storage.
Because a batt. kill switch isn't feasible, I thought I'd just remove the in-line fuse for the detector.
In our '13 FC28, I found that it is located under the front bench in an area I can barely crawl into.

So, thinking it would be clever, I just went to the detector itself and installed male/female crimp-on quick connectors.

I did this after I removed the 1 amp in-line fuse.

When I finished the work, I coupled the connectors and replaced the fuse,
only to discover that the prop. det. was flashing red (indicating power) but would not reset or respond to the "test" button.
I made sure the fuse was still good.

What have I done wrong? Does the detector detect tampering?
Thanks,
Dave
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Old 08-31-2017, 02:53 PM   #2
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Dave

I just installed a SWITCH

Pictured here

Bob
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:52 AM   #3
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Propane Detector Switch

Hi Bob, Thanks for your reply.
I remember seeing your photos - at the time I didn't get that the switch was at the top of the panel.
I'll be stopping by the hardware store for one.

In the mean time, since I couldn't find a way to re-set the detector, I ordered a replacement.

I still can't figure out how I might have damaged it…

Thanks again,
Dave
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:42 AM   #4
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It's not just the propane detector, it's also the CO detector. And the thermostat even if the display is dark. I think the solution is to disconnect the chassis batteries with a main disconnect switch.
(By regulation, CO and propane detectors can't have a switch in line)
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:33 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
It's not just the propane detector, it's also the CO detector. And the thermostat even if the display is dark. I think the solution is to disconnect the chassis batteries with a main disconnect switch.
(By regulation, CO and propane detectors can't have a switch in line)
Hi

.... and leakage back into the inverter and converter and ... and ...

A lot depends on exactly which model you have and how AS decided to wire it up that year. Indeed we blame the poor propane detector when the issue is really a number of similar items.

Next layer to the onion is that some battery manufacturers specify a mighty large monthly discharge rate. If you use their numbers, you are down 50% if a few months.

Bob
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:37 AM   #6
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I haven't checked my Classic 30 yet, but my Safari 25 had the propane detector wired to the battery side of the "battery disconnect'" switch. I moved the wire to the distribution panel side of the switch. I think the Classic must be different, because I can leave it for weeks without draining the batteries. Next time I'm at the trailer I'll check to see if the propane detector is blinking.

The wiring diagrams for both of my trailers call the switch the "12V kill switch" which is a more accurate name. It kills the feed to the 12V distribution panel from both the converter and the batteries. The batteries are always connected to the converter. The wiring changed when they went to the distribution panels with the converter built in. In that configuration it was easier to switch the line to the batteries.

Al
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:09 AM   #7
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There's no room inside the battery box, but the disconnect doesn't need to go on the batteries. I'm going to look at the 12v. path and see if the disconnect might be mounted on the forward seating area, near the door. Or on the panel next to the converter. I don't want to overcomplicate it by adding a relay.
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:53 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
There's no room inside the battery box, but the disconnect doesn't need to go on the batteries. I'm going to look at the 12v. path and see if the disconnect might be mounted on the forward seating area, near the door. Or on the panel next to the converter. I don't want to overcomplicate it by adding a relay.
Hi

If you are already routing the battery "inside" to protect a shunt, putting a disconnect switch in the same lead is a pretty good idea.

Bob
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