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Old 05-21-2011, 07:33 AM   #15
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Gringo,
Sorry to hear of your issues, but they really are minor issues. I too had door issues, and like you I did not have my stabilizers set correctly. WRT the bubble level on the jack, mine seems to have a mind of it's own. I will get it replaced next time I go to the dealer. As a more permanent fix, I bought a pair of small curved bubbles. I put one centered under the front window to help level left and right. The second one I placed on the street side of the propane cover to level fore and aft. I also keep an old 2 ft level to verify everything. I know some expect the jack level to remain accurate, but remember it usually sits out in the elements unprotected and does get beat up.

The hot water issue could be a simple adjustment at the valve, especially if it only affects the shower. Access shouldn't be to difficult. As an temporary fix, turn the water heater off before/when you take a shower, the water will be hot, but depending on water use it should cool down to help prevent scalding...
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:58 AM   #16
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To level the trailer I just put this on the front A-frame while running the jack up or down. About $8 and magnetic.

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Old 05-21-2011, 08:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gringo View Post
Those levellers have some authority if you put some arm into it, it seems.
The first thing is to quit calling them "levellers." They are only stabilizers and should not be used to level the trailer in any way.

First, level the trailer using the tongue jack and boards under the wheels on one side if needed. Then, and only then, put the stabilizers down. Crank them only until they are snug. The trailer should not move.
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:04 AM   #18
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The monitor in newer trailers works a bit differently than the old. It indicates the level in all tanks all the time by different colors of one particular led for each tank. You have to ask it to cycle through a process to see the level of each tank the old full-scale bar graph way. Took me a minute to figure that out.

If that's not the issue, look in your owner's manual packet for the booklet on the tank level monitor. I remember there is a calibration procedure for detecting the sensors. That may fix it.

Regards,
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:21 AM   #19
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Use your warranty period to full advantage. I went in for some early fixes on my '06 but definitely noticed that other issues emerged after a year of bumping down the road. Dealers want to help you on this!

You may find your door latch becomes harder to shut over time. They come out of the box only lightly lubed. Use the red tube and squirt some LPS-1 in there when this happens.

As nickcrowhurst always says, "The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:31 AM   #20
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I appreciate all the comments and help. I definitely have a plan of action going forward on these issues. I will not likely be going back to the dealer where we bought the AS.

And as for maintenance issues....you guys don't know how well you have it. You should try living on a hilltop overlooking the ocean with the trade winds blowing through your home and shop and automobiles 24 hours a day for several years. The brass grommet that comes installed in an aluminum window screen will cause the aluminum to rot and the grommet will fall out within 90 days. As just one example.

Wanna hear about all the different types of stainless steel, and why most of them are a waste of money in a marine environment? Nah....I didn't think so...I have to carefully consider any two different metals being in contact with each other. Like a stainless fastener holding an aluminum roof. Even different types of aluminum....one is going to turn to powder.

The maintenance on this Airstream is going to be like a vacation from maintenance. I actually left a screwdriver out on the ground overnight in Dallas, and the next morning, it was NOT covered in rust! This just doesn't happen to me.
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:41 AM   #21
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dwightdi has educated us on the need to properly passivate stainless. And any number of discussions on the galvanic series. And some very knowledgeable folks discussing this.

We'll take as much as you can throw our way.
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:07 PM   #22
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Which stainless are you referring to? There's a lot of it, and it has different characteristics. If you don't want it to rust, then you have to live with it being soft. as one example. If you want it to hold an edge, then it's going to rust. As another.

And putting any other metal, including any kind of stainless, in direct contact with aluminum in the presence of sodium and moisture will start the aluminum on it's way to aluminum oxide.

But that's all neither here nor there. I spent 40 years working on and under the oceans with a variety of sensitive electronic equipment. And now I've lived here for six years. And I thought I knew something about corrosion. hah.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:28 PM   #23
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Always amazes me. Got a problem check the forum. I had the same problem with the door and sure enough the stabalizers were cranked down too hard.

On another note the bathroom water is really hot but the shower not so much but certainly hot enough. No real concerns about that.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:57 PM   #24
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I wrote about using the bathroom door as a leveling tool... then the witty members of the forum suggested a "multipurpose level" a shot glass filled with whiskey set on the kitchen counter. If the liquid fills levelly to the edge, you're level both ways.

...then the discussion turned to "where can I find a 4 oz. "shot" glass...

Don't know if I'd trust the side to side adjustments done by someone who'd emptied that level a few times.

Paula
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:03 AM   #25
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Several years ago I bought one of these little babies to use in a AS LY motorhome. I sold the motorhome 3 years ago, but kept this leveller and I use it whenever I set up the trailer - works like a charm. RV EZ Level - Camco RV 20601 - Levels - Camping World
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:12 PM   #26
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I bought 2 pair of these and when I set up my Reese hitch on level ground, I set the trailer up perfectly level using a construction level and then applied the stick on bubble levels, One front curb side, one adjacent on the side so you can see both axis measurements when unhitching and operating the jack. One more on curb side near door (we have a 27 FB) and one just above the license plate center rear. They are incremented in inches so one level of Standard leveling blocks = 1.5 graduations. Works well for me. The jack level is fairly useless in my opinion.
http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Hopkins/HM08525.html -Brad
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:28 PM   #27
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rv ez level by camco, works great.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:41 AM   #28
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I use a magnetic 8" torpedo level from Sears that I keep in the trailer and set on the front trailer frame when unhitched for front to back leveling. I then set it on the battery box to check side to side level.

Simple, cheap, and I don't have to mar the beautiful exterior.
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