Quote:
Originally Posted by JoleneAS
Currently doing the full Monty on a 76 Overlander (shell on). I was able to get all subfloor pieces out intact, and will be using them to replace the dimensions of the new subfloor pieces. I will be honest, I have not though super face ahead in design, but I plan to keep the bathroom (rear of trailer) and kitchen in the same spots. The trailer was in poor shape inside when I got it and I’m not exactly sure the utility of some of the holes in the subfloor. Next to where the refrigerator was at was a rectangular shaped opening in the subfloor with chicken wire screen that went to the outside of trailer. There was a circular shaped one in the bathroom. Also in the bathroom were ventilation tubes that appear to have gone to the gray and black tanks. I plan to use my black tank for urine only as part of a composting toilet setup.
Anyways, I don’t know if this question can be answered, but what holes in the subfloor are mandatory? I imagine the vent tubes from the gray and black tanks were to vent fumes... what about the other subfloor openings?
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Hello again! Good to hear your project is still moving along.
Tank vents are mandatory for each tank. They can be combined at some point above the tank, but each under-floor tank will need a hole in the floor for a vent. The vent permits air to flow freely in and out of the tank as water enters and exits, displacing the volume. Without vents, your tanks will not fill/empty smoothly. The gray/black tanks would have used 1.5" ABS vents piped to the roof. The fresh tank would have used two bits of 1/2" (I think) tubing, one for each side of the tank (it's divided in half on top to accommodate a frame rail), which join together and connect to the water fill.
In the bathroom, there should be a hole in the floor on top of the black tank for the toilet. You will not need that hole if you're doing a composting toilet, though it's your call if you want to install it and then block it up to allow a traditional toilet to be installed later. I didn't bother, since I moved stuff around in my bathroom and accommodating a black tank would have added complexity to the project.
There would also be a hole under the shower to accommodate the shower trap. You might be able to avoid that with a hepvo valve if you want, but be sure to provide access to replace it when it breaks. I opted to use a traditional trap for my shower.
In the kitchen, there should be a fairly large hole in the floor for access to the side of the fresh tank plumbing. I made mine a bit smaller, but at minimum you need a pathway for the fill hose, vent hose(s), and the pump suction line. I found it helpful to have enough access to get my hand in there for maintenance.
Behind the fridge, assuming you're using a propane fridge, you need a hole for air to enter the area behind the fridge, pass vertically over the fridge coils, and vent through the roof. If you're using an electric only fridge, you may not need to vent to the outside, but check your fridge manual, since the heat does still need to vent to somewhere.
My AC condensate tube ran behind the fridge and drained through a 1/2" ID tube through the floor. The fridge also has a water drain line, which passes through the floor vent screen.
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