Working on our 68 Tradewind project.
I am still in the replacing floor mode, but working on other things...waiting for that putting back together time!
Put new flush valve on and tested...all is well....but what is the purpose of the small hose at the back of the toilet (attaching picture I hope).
And electrically I am still puzzled...no converter wired in, just the 120 circuit box in the back, the 2 fuses on the back wall for 12 v and then a control panel above the refrigerator. I took pictures of everything, but am having trouble figuring out why the 12 v lights and kitchen fan and etc are wirenutted to the large aluminum (120v) wires. (Picture attached too I hope.) I have spent a while searching for a wiring diagram too but no success yet.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
John in Lowesville VA
Let’s start with the left-hand electrical picture. That wiring is flat out dangerous! Especially if it’s 110 VAC! Those bare wires are a big shock hazard for a 110 VAC circuit. And if that’s a 12 VDC circuit, then even though you may not get shocked if you touch them, they can still short out and blow your fuse. Hopefully, you do not actually have electrical power to that circuit right now.
Older Airstreams have combination 110 VAC and 12 VDC lights. Not sure which year they stopped using those and went strictly to 12 VDC lighting and the internal power converter.
The fridge, if it runs on 110 VAC should have a plug on it, and be plugged into an outlet. The 12 volt connection, if there is one, should be connected to a 12 VDC circuit. Which those wires don't look like 12 volt wiring.
Question, have you put a volt meter on any of these wires?
Oh - no idea on the toilet, and the floor looks good! Did you put a finish on the plywood? Looks like it, and that maybe you'll use that as your finished floor?
FYI... I would pull all your wires and start with new ones! You have already gone this far just go a little further. I would replace "2" wire (just black and white) 110 with new "3" wire (black, white, bare copper or green). So that you have a ground and can then wire for GFIC in the bath and kitchen areas!
FYI... I would pull all your wires and start with new ones! You have already gone this far just go a little further. I would replace "2" wire (just black and white) 110 with new "3" wire (black, white, bare copper or green). So that you have a ground and can then wire for GFIC in the bath and kitchen areas!
If this is wired like my 67 the two wire black and white are 12VDC and does not need or use a ground wire. The 120VAC should be grounded(still black and white but has an extra bare copper wire). This is a good way to tell between the systems. I can post an electrical diagram of a 67 if you what it my help but it won't be the same as the 68. The Manfield toilet uses Sealand toilet parts.
The extra line on the back of your toilet is probably for a hand held spray for rinsing the toilet bowl. The spray head (if present) normally is snapped into a holder bracket beside the toilet when not in use. The small pedal when depressed charges this line with water.
Hope this explains.
Bob
thanks once again forum members! Good information. I still am in need of a source for a wiring diagram...especially since it looks like I will be rewiring it all.
Judy and Shimps,
If you find any NMC with aluminium conductors used for the 120 VAC wiring, I strongly recommend you rewire all of the AC conductors with copper wiring for safety reasons. Airstream used NMC Aluminum conductors did not work well, and can pose a potential fire hazard. Wire all AC per current NEC requirements applicable to RV's. I suggest all DC wiring be stranded copper conductors per current Airstream specifications. Grounding practices are critical to avoid corrosion issues; I suggest professional advice if you are uncertain.
If you need more details, drop me a private message.
WLJ1943
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