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Old 08-25-2012, 11:50 PM   #21
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Also get a new dealer. You spent a lot of money with these guys and there's no excuse for their answers.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:26 AM   #22
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Well, I've checked everything i am able to, and the problem seems to be the new batteries, new converter, or both. Have temporarily resolved the problem by switching the batteries from "use" to "store". I will stop
at the dealer on my way home.

In addition to being without power last night, we experienced the worst electrical storm I have ever seen, plus about five inches of rain in a few hours. To all of you who came to my emotional and technical support, i am deeply grateful. I hope i can one day return the favor.
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:25 PM   #23
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You can keep your refrigerator running on AC power by unplugging it from the trailer system outlet inside the refer access box and plugging it directly into shore power with an extension cord. Most campgrounds have an additional 15 or 20 amp outlet in the power box.

Brian
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:51 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mother ship
I think you're right about the new converter. Too bad the service department at my dealer wouldnt give me the time of day when I called them earlier.
I'd have a chat tomorrow with the service manager there.

Hope you got it resolved.


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Old 08-26-2012, 02:25 PM   #25
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Are you sure you checked the switch for the converter? I may have missed it, but I didn't see it in your posts. I know you checked the breaker and the battery disconnect switch, but I didn't see anywhere that you said you checked the switch for the converter. (I assume it has one - maybe they stopped doing that.) Look for a light switch like in a house that doesn't seem to do anything.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:06 PM   #26
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Try to think like a worker who is sloppy—look for wires loose or not connected, switches not turned on, wires reversed causing discharging instead of charging. Is there water in the batteries?

Check the 12 v. fuses—they can be hard to see if they are blown, so get replacement fuses and try them. A careless worker who doesn't understand electrical principles could have blown fuses. There may be fuses in the battery cables inside the trailer, check them. Look for a short in the battery box—check the wire to the jack for compromised insulation, or cables arcing to the box. See if the cables are tightly connected inside and out.

You can't charge a dead battery with an alternator, so trying to charge through the tow vehicle or some one else's vehicle won't work. You need a separate battery charger (one is in the converter and not working).

Battery life is shortened by letting them go dead. Standard wet cell batteries should not be discharged below 50%; 0% is worse. Tell the dealer you want new batteries because they either did things badly, or installed a bad converter and didn't check it properly, and add in the problem where they blew you off.

There is a reputable dealer in NJ (Colonial) and if that is where you called, ask to speak to the owners about sloppy workmanship. They have a good reputation and would be concerned about your experience. I suppose that works for any dealer.

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Old 08-27-2012, 06:26 AM   #27
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Have temporarily resolved the problem by switching the batteries from "use" to "store".

How did this "fix" the problem?
Is the switch wired backwards?

B
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:22 PM   #28
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I am concerned that we haven't heard from you. How did it all work out?
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:10 AM   #29
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Thanks for the follow up and additional tips. We finally narrowed it down to a converter problem. A battery charger and some time got us up and running for the last day of our trip! I spoke with the service mgr, who said that they would address the problem w the converter, and offered to check our brand new batteries. I am insisting that they be replaced - since I'm assuming that they won't fully charge once they've been completely drained.

Biltex - in response to your question about switching the relay to "store". That was a fluke, it turned out that it really didn't resolve the problem. What might have happened is that we also turned on the AC or TV. We noticed that the 12 volt system would get more juice when we put some demand on the 120 volt line. Not sure why - maybe it pulled more amps through??

Anyway - it's going back to the dealer this week. Thanks again to all who came to our rescue.
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:22 AM   #30
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The batteries should fully charge once they've been drained below 50%, but draining them way down does shorten their life. The more times that happens, the shorter the life is. One time is not so bad, but will make some difference.

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Old 08-31-2012, 07:14 PM   #31
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Thanks, Gene. I thought there would be some impact frim draining them down, but wasn't sure how much. I think I still want new ones, though.
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:21 PM   #32
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Thanks, Gene. I thought there would be some impact frim draining them down, but wasn't sure how much. I think I still want new ones, though.
There is a formula of duty cycles, the actual percentage of "life" lost from a cycle is something like 1.5%. One time won't do much.
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:51 PM   #33
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I had a very similar problem in a campground after getting new (fully charged) batteries installed. The campground host suggested connecting my truck power cord so the truck could act as the converter. It worked! I subsequently stopped at an Airstream service provider & they said both my batteries and converter were fine, that the converter had to get above a certain level to start working. I don't have a clue about this, just that my truck got it going and the converter started working on its own afterwards.
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:08 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
You can keep your refrigerator running on AC power by unplugging it from the trailer system outlet inside the refer access box and plugging it directly into shore power with an extension cord. Most campgrounds have an additional 15 or 20 amp outlet in the power box.

Brian
It will still need a good 12V source to run the control boards, won't it?
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:12 PM   #35
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It will still need a good 12V source to run the control boards, won't it?
I was just going to ask that.... went to get Thumper tonight and the texas summer and having not gone anywhere since July had zapped the batteries.

I have it on shore power here at the house, and the batteries have plenty of water, so hopefully by morning they will be recharged...

Dometic booklet says that i have to have 12V continuous supply to refrigerator for it to work.... Brian, have you used the campsite AC option without having 12V working?

Thanks
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:04 AM   #36
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There is a formula of duty cycles, the actual percentage of "life" lost from a cycle is something like 1.5%. One time won't do much.
Thanks Terry.

That helps to give some idea just what is lost. If a battery has a 60 month lifespan, 1.5% is .9 month or 27 days of a 30 day month. Do it repeatedly, and you lose years.

I know this is based on assumptions and approximations, but it is something to consider.

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Old 09-02-2012, 12:27 PM   #37
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I think Skater had the right idea - the problem is not the battery disconnect switch (which should be on "use", btw) but the converter on-off switch that should be on the wall. Mine is on the street-side, hidden behind the front curtain. If you set it to "on" you should be able to hear the converter hum.

Good luck. Pat
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:49 PM   #38
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Do not think the newer trailers have an off on switch for the converter? Wrong, maybe. Jim
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Old 09-02-2012, 04:50 PM   #39
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Ours does not have an on/off switch and it doesn't plug in, but is hard wired. That saves money on boxes, switches, wire, cover plates—maybe $5 when bought in bulk, plus labor. A switch would be very helpful to prevent overcharging when plugged into shore power for days at a campsite.

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Old 09-02-2012, 05:02 PM   #40
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Gene, you are absolutely correct. I have been confused when posters say unplug the converter or turn it off.! Thanks, jim
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