Parking long-term on lawn

[blickcd]

Last year we moved. At the previous house I parked my Airstream on a gravel driveway next to my house. At the new house, the trailer is parked in the back yard, on grass. I have some 2x8 planks under the tires to keep it from sinking, though the planks have split and settled in a bit.

The driveway goes along one side of the house, which has a side entrance garage, so the trailer can be backed in beside the house, past the garage door, off the end of the driveway, and through a wide gate into the back yard.

In the future I may extend the driveway all the way into the back yard to make a permanent parking pad for the trailer, but that is expensive. For the next season or two I was wondering what the best solution might be.

I'm thinking of setting up two strips of paving stones, 2' wide by about 6' long for an easy visual target when backing in and a nice level landing strip for the wheels.

Any other ideas are welcome.

Christopher

[CanoeStream]

A lot of communities have ordinances on the books about parking in the yard. Those call for some prepared pad and are most common where college campus parking has become a problem. You may escape that in a small town?

Otherwise my principal comment relates to preventing grass growing up around the belly pan. The belly pan needs to breathe to promote drying after rains, trips or (minimally so) leaks. High humidity levels from high vegetation can prevent this. Plant the mums somewhere else.

[nairnchyz]

The paving stones would be an alternative to extending your driveway.
To set the stones properly you should remove sod 2' wide and 6' long and remove some earth below the sod. Fill the dug out area with base gravel and power compact the gravel. Then set your paving stones on the compacted gravel. Make sure the top of the paving stones is higher than the surrounding sod and this will prevent rain water from pooling around your tires. You may want to consider doing the same procedure in the area where your jack stand will be put down as you have 500 to 800 pounds of weight to support there.
You can rent a power compactor from a tool rental company. Local contractors would be able to advise you the appropriate thickness for your gravel base - given the weight of your A/S. When you have your A/S moved off the paving stones you will have to mow the grass.

[RLS]

I found the concrete blocks at HD work best for putting the trailer on. These are 4"x8"x16". I used these for the runners, and 4"x16"x16" ones for where the jacks go to get the load off of the tires when sitting any length of time. You can then use reg. ones for walking around.

[blickcd]

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

Just to clarify, while I am in a subdivision it is in a somewhat rural area and not a dreaded HOA. I checked with zoning before buying the house and parking an RV in the back yard is legal so long as it has current registration, is not used as a residence, and is ten feet from side and rear property lines.

Zoning officials have been to my house twice, when I fenced in the back yard, and when I put up a lawn shed. If there was a problem with the Airstream being there, I am sure they would have told me.

Last fall when I moved in I kept the grass underneath as short as possible, reaching under with a weedwacker as far as I could. The Airstream gets regular use during warmer months, and when it is pulled out I properly mow the parking area. Dealing with the grass below it is a PIA and real incentive to eventually lengthen the driveway.

Christopher

[TG Twinkie]

I have a tarp under the trailer. Drove 8" nails around the edge. It keeps the grass from growing. The tarp I use is vinyl and will last for years, since it is mostly out of the sun.

[dlb435]

I keep mine parked out behind the house on the lawn. I just have a couple of paving blocks under the wheels. No problems.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by blickcd

I'm thinking of setting up two strips of paving stones, 2' wide by about 6' long for an easy visual target when backing in and a nice level landing strip for the wheels.

That's a common solution. Larger paving stones are less likely to sink than small ones. For tandem axles I would suggest 8'.

It's also helpful to place a paver for the tongue jack.

[RickDavis]

A couple treated boards is all I have ever used. If the trailer is there most of the time the grass will either die off or become pretty thin.

As a former Ohio resident I do remember that in the spring the trailer area would be several inches higher than the surrounding ground for several days as the ground around it would thaw before the ground under the trailer.

[blkmagikca]

I would avoid parking on grass for another reason: where there is plant growth there is oxygen generated. I have been told that this can cause steel to rust. I do know that the PO of my Excella had had it parked on grass for an extended period of time and that the tool box in the front has rusted right through. I had to have it replaced at Jackson Center. To further back up this theory about parking on grass, several years ago I was camping in Thunder Bay (we had moved our daughter into student residence up there). Unbeknown to me I had had a hairline crack in the engine's distributor cap. I was unable to start the TV and had to have it towed to a garage. They had it parked on pavement and within a couple of hoours it started and ran fine. So we took it back to the campground and the next day it wouldn't start again - so towed back to the garage. Three months later, when back home, the crack in the distributor cap had enlarged and we saw it and changed the cap.

[Wabbiteer]

Here once the grass died wind blew away two to four inches of black-dirt rom beneath the trailer, at local prices $300 worth of top soil (before delivery charges) for the eight or nine cubic yards of soil that went away.

All 'air' has the 21~% oxygen so its the extra moisture vapor from the earth & turf that causes heavy dew cycles that accelerate rust.

[aquinob]

Originally Posted by blkmagikca

I would avoid parking on grass for another reason: where there is plant growth there is oxygen generated. I have been told that this can cause steel to rust. I do know that the PO of my Excella had had it parked on grass for an extended period of time and that the tool box in the front has rusted right through. I had to have it replaced at Jackson Center. To further back up this theory about parking on grass, several years ago I was camping in Thunder Bay (we had moved our daughter into student residence up there). Unbeknown to me I had had a hairline crack in the engine's distributor cap. I was unable to start the TV and had to have it towed to a garage. They had it parked on pavement and within a couple of hoours it started and ran fine. So we took it back to the campground and the next day it wouldn't start again - so towed back to the garage. Three months later, when back home, the crack in the distributor cap had enlarged and we saw it and changed the cap.

I agree with not parking on the grass, but I'm not sure if its O2 or just more moisture coming up from the ground that promotes rust. My brother parked his truck on the side of his driveway on the grass for years and had lots of rust issues with it compared to his other vehicles. Think about it, when you build a house on a crawlspace foundation, you put plastic down as a moisture barrier to keep the area underneath as dry as possible so mold doesnt grow. On the grass you have moisture coming up every morning and it will settle on the steel frame and hasten oxidation. If I had to park on the grass or ground long term, I would put down a plastic tarp as TG suggested, at least that will act as a moisture barrier right underneath the trailer.

[dkottum]

Yes, provide a moisture barrier under the trailer and concrete pavers under the wheels and stabilizers.

doug k

[CanoeStream]

Not complicated enough yet? Heeding advice from jcanavera about concrete wicking oil content out of tires, I put 6 mil poly under the tires when I put the Safari away for the long winter months. And cover the tires when she's stored outside.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by CanoeStream

Not complicated enough yet? Heeding advice from jcanavera about concrete wicking oil content out of tires, I put 6 mil poly under the tires when I put the Safari away for the long winter months. And cover the tires when she's stored outside.

The most damaging condition....inactivity for extended periods.


Dear Tire Doctor,

Can storing a vehicle on concrete effect the tires? Should I put barriers like plastic or other non-porous material under the tires? How about the effects of continuous storage for several days at a time with use between storage periods?



Dear Len,

Thank you for contacting Bridgestone and allowing us to assist you.

First of all, regarding the effects of storage:

A cool, dry, sealed garage is your best condition for storage, however, it is realized that this is not often an available option. Concrete is not the tire enemy some people think it is.

We would recommend the following steps in storing a vehicle:

1. Make sure the floor / ground surface is free of any petroleum product contamination (Oil, grease, fuel, etc.) since petroleum products will attack rubber and can cause significant damage to compound characteristics.

2. Thoroughly clean your tires with soap and water.

3. Place a barrier such as plastic, cardboard, or plywood between the tires and the ground surface.

4. Cover your tires to block out direct sunlight and ultra violet rays.

5. Do not store the vehicle in close proximity to steam pipes, electrical generators or animal manure since these accelerate oxidation of the rubber.

6. Make sure your tires are fully inflated with air.

7. When the vehicle is ready to go back into service, inspect the tires for excessive cracking in both the sidewall and tread area and check all tire air pressures. Tires will normally lose about 2 PSI per month so you should expect to find the pressures lower than when you put the vehicle into storage. Re-inflate the tires to the correct air pressure before operation.

Now, about the effects of time:

Yes, rubber compound does slowly change over time, becoming "harder" as it ages. But unless we are talking years, this would be virtually undetectable. However; the most likely effect of storage will be:

1. Flat spotting of the tires from taking a 'set' while sitting in one position for an extended length of time. This 'set' may work itself out of the tires after being put back into operation, but not always. This, of course, would result in a vibration.

2. Tires have waxes and oils specially formulated to protect against ozone damage built into their rubber compounds. When the tire rotates and flexes, these waxes and oils are forced to the tire's surface and are thus able to protect the tire. When a tire is stationary, these waxes and oils are not coming to the surface and thus the tire is at greater risk of ozone damage.

3. Several days of non-use at a time is not nearly as detrimental to tires as long storage periods. The tires would still be operated often enough to avoid excessive 'set' and the waxes and oils are being forced to the tire's surface often enough to provide adequate protection against ozone.

Best regards, Tire Doctor

POI...our tires come off for Winter storage.



Bob

[Cracker]

Just another problem to be concerned about is mice tunneling through the grass to get to the Airstream without worrying about birds! I'm fortunate enough to have a 30' wide asphalt apron to park on - giving the local birds (---and cats) a 10' wide "kill zone" all around my Airstream. No mouse has dared to cross it yet!

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Cracker

Just another problem to be concerned about is mice tunneling through the grass to get to the Airstream without worrying about birds! I'm fortunate enough to have a 30' wide asphalt apron to park on - giving the local birds (---and cats) a 10' wide "kill zone" all around my Airstream. No mouse has dared to cross it yet!

This is so true. See my AS registry for pics, but since my buddy rented me a spot on a retired concrete pig lot about 12 years ago, I have not had a mouse. To the right of the pic, there is a barn with a particularly good mousing, semi-wild cat.....and there are a lot of hawks in the woods nearby. Mice don't like to cross open concrete with no cover.

[RivetzCarlAS]

What about brick pavers? Does anyone park Their AS on their brick paved driveway and if so, what else besides chocks (for the rain water decline) and possibly tire covers, secure locks would i need to ensure I Don’t destroy my girlfriend’s driveway? It will not be parked long term, only temporary, but she is worried that it isn’t safe and i cannot locate any other info about parking on brick paver solutions. Many thanks !

Suzanne

[GetawA-S]

The point load from a pickup truck tire is similar to that of a moderate sized trailer’s tires. For properly installed pavers, it’s not an issue. If you are backing at a sharp angle, you may leave rubber marks as the tires “scrub”.
“Love me, love my Airstream.” She could have chosen worse…