Overwhelmed!

[Jamespio]

The nwe toy showed up. It's a 1969 Overlander in pretty rough shape. I'm going to have lots and lots of questions, but the first one is "Where the heck do you start?"

More info might help. This is an Overlander twin model. The front and the rear have been partially gutted. The front gaucho is gone, floor was pulled up and replaced with fresh plywood, but it looks like the PO never got around to bolting the new floor down.

The bathroom is likewise partly gutted. PO was obviously in the proces of entirely disassembling the bath. Tub has been pulled, toilet pulled, and part of the floor pulled up to expose the black water tank, plumbing and a lot of electrical. It's an ugly mess right now.

All the appliances are there, fridge, furnace, water heater, oven. The fresh water tank is now above the floor and it looks the PO planned to mount it in the front credenza (I might be giving him more credit than he deserves). The control center is there, and next to that is a 30 amp breaker box, but I actually don't know if the univolt converter is there, or even where it would be or what it looks like.

Where the heck would you start? How would you assess in order to determine how much needs done. I'm just overwhelmed, like I am at the start of every major project (and I always get over it) but this is a completely new type of project for me. I guess I really mean, how would YOU start?

[scooterbug76]

We are in the process of finishing up our 69 Overlander center twin. I'll post some pics in a few minutes.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Jamespio

The nwe toy showed up. It's a 1969 Overlander in pretty rough shape. I'm going to have lots and lots of questions, but the first one is "Where the heck do you start?"

More info might help. This is an Overlander twin model. The front and the rear have been partially gutted. The front gaucho is gone, floor was pulled up and replaced with fresh plywood, but it looks like the PO never got around to bolting the new floor down.

The bathroom is likewise partly gutted. PO was obviously in the proces of entirely disassembling the bath. Tub has been pulled, toilet pulled, and part of the floor pulled up to expose the black water tank, plumbing and a lot of electrical. It's an ugly mess right now.

All the appliances are there, fridge, furnace, water heater, oven. The fresh water tank is now above the floor and it looks the PO planned to mount it in the front credenza (I might be giving him more credit than he deserves). The control center is there, and next to that is a 30 amp breaker box, but I actually don't know if the univolt converter is there, or even where it would be or what it looks like.

Where the heck would you start? How would you assess in order to determine how much needs done. I'm just overwhelmed, like I am at the start of every major project (and I always get over it) but this is a completely new type of project for me. I guess I really mean, how would YOU start?

You start by making a list of "everything" you find wrong.

Then the second step is to price it out, so that you will have some idea of what you would obligate yourself to.

Then...............decide if you want to tackle the project, or not.

As an example, if the axles are original, you can plan on most likely having to replace them. You can reserve about $ 1500.00 for that plus freight.

Until you have everything written down and priced, it's very wise to not commit to anything or spend any money, until you are aware of the bottom line in not only the money, but your time as well.

Andy

[arcamedies]

Best to start sending lots of pictures so we can see what you're dealing with. First and formost if it's gonna go on the road, how are the tires, brakes, bearings, etc. second how far do you want to fix it, restoration to original or patch up everything so it works for you, some have gutted theirs and layed out their own floorplan and they look really neat as offices with a bed, couch or whatever. It can be a bare canvas for you to create your own masterpiece.

[Jamespio]

scooterbug, is there any way you could get me a pic of what the utility area on teh back and looks like. Mine is completely wrecked and I can't even envision what it should look like.

arcamedies, I will begin working on pics, I'm going to need a lot of help.

I know that step 1 is necessarily going to involve some disassembly, and then some reassembly. So, some basic questions:

1. What size drill bit is appropriate for drilling out the pop rivets that hold together most of the interior?

2. What size drill bit is appropriate for removing the exterior rivets?

3. What's the best source for Corning glass? I have a broken window that I'd like to fix ASAP to keep the spring rains out.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Jamespio

scooterbug, is there any way you could get me a pic of what the utility area on teh back and looks like. Mine is completely wrecked and I can't even envision what it should look like.

arcamedies, I will begin working on pics, I'm going to need a lot of help.

I know that step 1 is necessarily going to involve some disassembly, and then some reassembly. So, some basic questions:

1. What size drill bit is appropriate for drilling out the pop rivets that hold together most of the interior?

2. What size drill bit is appropriate for removing the exterior rivets?

3. What's the best source for Corning glass? I have a broken window that I'd like to fix ASAP to keep the spring rains out.

1. and 2. Use a # 30 drill bit for 1/8 rivets which is for the pop rivets inside and the buck rivets in the shell.

3. Parts stocking dealers have the windows.

Since you have a 1969 trailer, be aware that the window hinge in the 1969 model windows was never used again. When you get the new window, you will have to take it's hinge off and install the hinge that is on the old window, onto the new window.

If you do not do that, the first time you lower the new window into the old hinge, you will snap the rivets off the new window hinge.

Which window do you need? The front and rear windows are the same, namely all square corners.

On the sides of the coach, the windows can be 17", 29" or 39" wide.

On the side of the front window, you have "wing windows" that have 3 square and 1 round corners.

Check the gaskets on the rest of the windows. If they have never been replaced, they should, as they do not last 44 years. There is a newer, far superior gasket available for them, as well as for the entrance door and the access doors. The 2 sewer vent pipe cover gaskets will also need replacing, if they are original as they only last 2 to 3 years.

Andy

[scooterbug76]

This is what the back bath of ours looked like before we tore it apart. We put it back pretty much original. We had to replace the toilet and faucets.








This is the Univolt converter. Pic taken after bath was completely removed. We replaced this with one from www.bestconverter.com.

[Jamespio]

Thank you, scooterbug, very helpful. Got a pic of the "one stop service center?"

[Lily&Me]

Brings to mind the saying...... "Be careful what you wish for".

Take a deep breath and carry on, one step at a time.

You will find lots and lots of help right here.


Maggie.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Jamespio

3. What's the best source for Corning glass? I have a broken window that I'd like to fix ASAP to keep the spring rains out.

1969 trailers did not have the sashless Corning windows. That ended with the 1968 model year.
The windows are more or less available from any Airstream dealer, though you may have to re-use your original hinges.

[scooterbug76]

I checked and we used 1/8th drill bits on the interior to drill out the rivots.

[scooterbug76]

These are all photos of the inside before we did anything.

[Minno]

Before you start renovating or fixing, you should probably make her watertight. That means tracking down any leaks and getting your windows weathertight. THEN you can start to rebuild. One step at a time! Do some reading on threads if you haven't already. Figure out your floor plan. Figure out what works and what doesn't, what needs replacing, and what you want to preserve. More or less what Andy said: take an inventory.
And definitely, you need to take some pictures so we can all see your new baby!

Kay

[Jamespio]

Minno, thanks for showing up. I'm about halfway through the thread on your total rebuild.

My interior is still largely intact. Wall panels are still up, most of the cabinetry still in place. Other than pulling the interior panels and running a hose over the outside, are there tricks for determining just how watergiht I am, and where the leaks might be? I don't want to do a full gut unless I have to.

Just to start giving a sense of what I'm facing, here's a pic of my bathroom, from outside the service center on the rear:

[scooterbug76]

This was our wiring section before it was redone.







This is after...

[Jamespio]

Thanks, that helps.

[slowmover]

Where the heck would you start? How would you assess in order to determine how much needs done. I'm just overwhelmed, like I am at the start of every major project (and I always get over it) but this is a completely new type of project for me. I guess I really mean, how would YOU start?

You start by making a list of "everything" you find wrong.

Then the second step is to price it out, so that you will have some idea of what you would obligate yourself to.

Then...............decide if you want to tackle the project, or not.


Some TT's look okay, but won't be worth the trouble.

Choose a single system and price every single item within it. Matters not whether it is water or gas plumbing (plus appliances) or other. Every item with no exceptions.

This is the literal nuts&bolts as one learns (sometimes the hard way) that it is not the big stuff that is the problem (the appliance, for example), but all the rest of the components of that system which are at the heart of determining whether a TT is worth re-building.

The cheapest TT can [will] turn out to be the one that is most expensive. (And this is before we consider the amount of time).

The TT in best original condiion is generally the one worth owning (as all of them at Year 20 or older need some amount of R&R).

Andy's advice is really solid. Look, before you leap.

Good luck

.

[Minno]

Originally Posted by Jamespio

Other than pulling the interior panels and running a hose over the outside, are there tricks for determining just how watergiht I am, and where the leaks might be?

Do a search for pressure testing for leaks on the forums. Basically, folks have installed a window fan or something similar over a roof vent opening or window opening pointing inside. Seal it well with duct tape, and turn it on high. With all the windows, roof vents and door closed, it'll create a positive pressure inside, and then you can use soapy water over the outside to look for leaks. You'll need to seal the range hood vent as well.

This is a fairly simplistic overview of the process some have used, but you get the general idea.

Chris