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Old 04-20-2013, 09:42 AM   #15
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1969 27' Overlander
Northeast , Georgia
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This was our wiring section before it was redone.

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This is after...


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Old 04-20-2013, 11:37 AM   #16
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1969 27' Overlander
Boise , Idaho
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Thanks, that helps.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:14 AM   #17
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Where the heck would you start? How would you assess in order to determine how much needs done. I'm just overwhelmed, like I am at the start of every major project (and I always get over it) but this is a completely new type of project for me. I guess I really mean, how would YOU start?

You start by making a list of "everything" you find wrong.

Then the second step is to price it out, so that you will have some idea of what you would obligate yourself to.

Then...............decide if you want to tackle the project, or not.



Some TT's look okay, but won't be worth the trouble.

Choose a single system and price every single item within it. Matters not whether it is water or gas plumbing (plus appliances) or other. Every item with no exceptions.

This is the literal nuts&bolts as one learns (sometimes the hard way) that it is not the big stuff that is the problem (the appliance, for example), but all the rest of the components of that system which are at the heart of determining whether a TT is worth re-building.

The cheapest TT can [will] turn out to be the one that is most expensive. (And this is before we consider the amount of time).

The TT in best original condiion is generally the one worth owning (as all of them at Year 20 or older need some amount of R&R).

Andy's advice is really solid. Look, before you leap.

Good luck

.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:24 PM   #18
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1972 31' Sovereign
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Originally Posted by Jamespio View Post
Other than pulling the interior panels and running a hose over the outside, are there tricks for determining just how watergiht I am, and where the leaks might be?
Do a search for pressure testing for leaks on the forums. Basically, folks have installed a window fan or something similar over a roof vent opening or window opening pointing inside. Seal it well with duct tape, and turn it on high. With all the windows, roof vents and door closed, it'll create a positive pressure inside, and then you can use soapy water over the outside to look for leaks. You'll need to seal the range hood vent as well.

This is a fairly simplistic overview of the process some have used, but you get the general idea.

Chris
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