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Old 07-25-2012, 09:48 AM   #1
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2004 25' Safari
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Overhead cabinet removal help

I must remove the rear overhead cabinet (over rear window) to gain access to a small dent on my 2004 Safari 25'. I can't figure where all the attaching points are. If anyone is familiar with this removal, I would appreciate some help before I break something.
Thanks, Jim
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:56 AM   #2
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Can you post a picture of the cabinet in question and of the dent you are trying to fix? There may be some options to try before disassembling the interior of your trailer.
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:22 PM   #3
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I'll take some pics and post tonight!
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:43 PM   #4
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We removed the rear Cabinets in our 89. They are years apart, but in case it is helpful, locate all the rivets indie you can find. Drill the, out. Have a helper holding it up. If you remove them all and the cabinet is still hanging there, have your helper wiggle it until youmtrace e hidden rivet, then remove that last one.
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:59 PM   #5
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I've only found about 6 screws along the lower wall and thats on the bottom of the cabinet. I can't find any screws securing the top or sides. No rivets!
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:02 PM   #6
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Hmmm, ours was all rivets.
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Old 07-25-2012, 04:27 PM   #7
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Bad news. The end cabinets are preassembled at the factory with the aluminum inner skin that goes to the edge of the end cap. I have seen them sitting on the factory floor all assembled. The inner skin is then riveted into the end cap. If you have the mouse fur in the interior, that covers all of the rivets. The cabinet is attached to the inner skin from the back, so the attachment is impossible to reach. It is very hard to remove the cabinets without damaging a lot of things.
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:36 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info. I had a careful look around and removal was not looking easy. I guess the dent will stay put for a while!
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:55 PM   #9
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Your real problem is dent removal, not cabinet removal. If you could describe, or attach a picture of the dent, I'm sure the community could provide some suggestions.
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:52 AM   #10
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Here it is, hope you can see the crease and the Clearance light is lightly pushed in. Maybe a job for a dent wizard guy through the light hole.

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Old 07-26-2012, 07:49 AM   #11
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Youch! I don't imagine that one will "pop" out with a suction cup! One thing I have heard of people doing for dent removal is to take a LARGE headed nail and hot glue it (the head) to the dent. You can then give a yank on the nail and try to pull the dent out. I think there are commercial DIY dent pulling kits that amount to the same thing.

On the one hand, that crease won't come out all the way, but maybe the dent can be deemphasized. On another hand, you run the risk of pulling off the clear coat, or partially removing the dent, but kinking the crease, which may not look any better.

good luck!
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swede0030
I must remove the rear overhead cabinet (over rear window) to gain access to a small dent on my 2004 Safari 25'. I can't figure where all the attaching points are. If anyone is familiar with this removal, I would appreciate some help before I break something.
Thanks, Jim
My AS is old, 1969. But maybe the concept carries over to other years. I removed one light fixture cover in the bathroom and cut out a large piece of fiberglass( back wall or cabinet to expose the dented area. I smoothed out the dent and stuck the cutout piece back in. The light. cover hides the fiberglas patch.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:53 PM   #13
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Not as hard as you think

It's harder... But seriously folks.

The inside skin HAS two big access holes in it. They don't use segments on the inside skin the same as are on the outside skin. The inside skin is a bit like Origami (Japanese paper folding art). It's ONE piece cut very very roughly like the diagram below. Now just curve the bottom edges inward to match the curve of the airstream's end, then curve the center section downward at about a 90 degree angle, then curve the side pieces inward the same way until the corners of the side and center pieces overlap. Rivet them together - there's your inside fellas, complete with two rather massive triangular openings. Can't see them? They're partially behind the cabinet, and mostly behind the blanks that go from the cabinet doors to the walls. The blanks are just stapled on and can be pulled off by the average 60 year old woman. If you've got one of those famous dent rollers another member was selling you should be able to access almost all of that crease with one - using the triangular hole. There's also a dent roller available that will fit on a flat pry bar. Just don't let it fall off of the pry bar and end up stuck between the skins. Do a search for the thread.

___ ........ _____________ ..........___
|....\ .......|....................|....... /.... |
|.....\...... |................... |...... /..... |
|..... \ ___|................... |___ /...... |
|..................................................|
|..................................................|
|_______________________________|


There's a lot of nasty fiberglass insulation in the opening so wear rubber gloves and don't pick your nose.

Once you're done working on whatever got you in there you can put the blanks back on by positioning the staples in the holes and whacking gently but firmly. BTW the blanks and doors are styrofoam with a pretty thin skin of plastic "woodgrain" so don't get violent or you'll break them!

If you want to do something nefarious like hide your weed man (Cheech and Chong live on) in the side voids, you'd be advised to use velcro to replace the blanks on a regular basis.

One other caution. The speakers for my radio face down from this part of the cabinet bottom and they've got some magnets that will suck a screwdriver right out of your hand - be aware of that and cover the speakers with a work towel or something so you don't have to disassemble the speakers to find screws or tools.

Not bad for the person who made the "Girl Tool Kit" famous, eh?

Paula
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