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Old 05-22-2008, 07:55 AM   #15
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What if the cart location were designed to go in front of the trailer. Obviously, adding to tongue weight. As long as i do not exceed the rated weight of the tow vehicles bumber set up. The additional weight of a golf cart and two five foot sections of of 10" I-beam does not seem excessive to me. Is the belly skin for aerodynamics or is it there to keep moisture and road debris off the under carraige?

Is 10-15% tongue weight a good number? If that is the standard then moving the axles to a location where the the golf cart on or off would not change the tongue weight more than 5%.

Perhaps some "hot shot" folks who haul various types of loads consistantly could weigh in(pun intended).

It isn't practical...and I am over my head, I agree.

I could go buy a toy hauler, box on wheels, with all the latest and greatest features. But, where is the fun in that? I would still have to add a rack over the top.

All valid points that need addressing, I appreciate it. Any others??
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:44 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swhite832
All valid points that need addressing, I appreciate it. Any others??
Yeah, back to my aluminum golf cart idea.
You'd call it the Golfstream, and it'd look like this:
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:09 AM   #17
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Duuude...creative thinking has just come to a new level. Does it have A/C?
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:01 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swhite832

In your opinion, if I added 300 lbs. to approximately 5ft. past the original configuration/weight of a 1979 Tradewind, what size I-beam(s) would you use, from tongue to taillight, assuming all other weight being equal to original configuration? Also, if you were adding five additional cantilevered feet weighing an additional 300 lbs. to a 1979 Tradewind how far back would you move the axles to compensate for load distribution?
Come on now, Crawl first, walk later. Looking back at your first post and seeing some of the follow on, lets go back to basics so we can get you some real answers. I do not own a tradewind. So lets start with that.

1) Provide the GVWR, should be on a tag somewhere, I am guessing 4000lbs but why guess.
2) Give me some basic measurements. Tip of tongue to front edge of shell. Tip of tongue to first axle. Spacing between axles. Length from center of rear axle to back bumper.
3) Did you have a rough idea of the weight of your golf cart? 300lbs sounds too light.
4) Serious about the extra tank size?

I'll walk you though the basic calculations and show you how to do what if's for where you want to place a golf cart. Other post on the frame design pretty much say that you are going to be bulding a custom frame. 1979, nastran and mechanica were at best in their infancy on some mainframe, probably just first order calculations in those days. A good thing, means the design will be better and stronger, more tolerant of whole sale chucking of the frame and bolting on a different one.

Nothing wrong with public review of calculations. A peer review is your friend, a little scrutiny is a good thing. So basic calcualtions first, gives you an idea of feasibility and what you are up against.

Never claimed to be a structural engineer so not an expert in frame design, but basics are basics and can take you a long way. Throw in a decent safety factor and lots of problems with optimized designs are not as big a deal.
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:37 AM   #19
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Lightbulb option

With the appropriate modifications for scale of the current housing unit, please reference the following CAD rendering included for consideration and further structural analysis.
Addition of quadruple outboard removable rotational supports could allow for amphibious operation with retention of current aqueous propulsion device.
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Old 05-22-2008, 04:18 PM   #20
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Ebair,
Don't tempt me...like elolson said crawl first.

Elolson,
You are absolutely correct. I will get those measurements, so there is something to work with. I do not own the golf cart yet, but I always build with the future in mind.
GVWR 5800
GAWR 2600? (I'll look again)

How do the designers who engineered the toy haulers currently on the market determine what kind of weight will or will not be in their respective trailers? There is a big difference between the weight of one Harley vs. two. Or, ATVs vs. bicycles. They couldn't possibly know what the purchaser is going to load in that space, yet there doesn't seem to be an issue with pulling those rigs empty vs. loaded
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:39 PM   #21
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They don't know. That is why the specify limits. It bounds the problem. There is an operational envelope. If you have ever been on a military cargo aircraft you will note that the floor is numbered in inches from the nose. That way when they load plan and the ground crew loads up the floor, the loadmasters can check where the pallets are placed. The CG (as I metioned earlier) needs to be within an operational window given the amount of fuel, weight, temperature, etc.

Same thing for toy haulers. The designers optimize for an operational window. The trailer needs to be safely towable both loaded and empty, this implies a CG shift. Wheel placement and trailer weight distribution are set up so that expected maximum loads, when propely loaded do not move the CG by more than their designed amount. That is why it is so incredibly dangerous to overload a trailer. If you do it wrong bad things can happen. I think we can all recall some pop star a few years ago had her 300 pound body guards and all the luggage in the rear of the AC and they went tango uniform in a rather tragic fashion on take-off. A perfect example.

Depending on where the weight is placed implies a different axle configuration. Your trailer needs to provide adequate tongue weight in both loaded and empty configurations, with and without cart. Also, as a tag along, there are sway and lateral lever arm problems. There are solutions, hensley for example, but best to start off with something that at least tries to be stable.

The guy who mentioned tandems on a class 8 trailer had the right idea. There is always the bridge law to screw up drivers, but by sliding the 5th wheel and rear tandems, I think the rule of thumb was like 400lbs a notch. A couple of notches makes a big difference in ride quality. I know from experience.
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:09 AM   #22
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People tell Jessie James he can't build it all the time and he does it anyhow. Go for it man... add 5 feet to the front of the trailer for a huge texas meat smoker and then it will balance out the weight of the golf cart. You would be the hit of every rally. You could feed folks brisket from the front and drive them home after. Dreams are not ment for crushing, ants are.
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:08 AM   #23
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Thumbs up Good Luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
If you are going to do this, have you just considered buying a longer trailer and doing some heavy mods that way?

I do recall the factory showing at an RV trade show a concept of a garage in the back of an Airstream. This was done by the factory and very recently. I am sure they would provide you some direction on what they did. I do not think their garage concept unit held a car, but it's a step I had never seen Airstream take. Somewhere on this forum are pictures of it. I think it was at the Lousiville show the year before last. If anyone could find that link and post it, I am sure it would be of some use to you.

My thought is, why get one that is too short, get the longer one and do major upgrades to it, rather than weld pig iron together, you can in fact have one solid piece of frame with additional supports.

Keep in mind, I have no idea how of if this would work, but since the factory did it recently, I am sure it can be done. The quesiton is how much time and $$$ do you want to throw at it. Nearly any dream is possible with time and $$$.
Here's that thread.
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:20 AM   #24
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That is very cool...unfortunately, I already own the 25 footer and it doesn't address the rack above the trailer.

That motorcycle gives me some ideas. Looks like I will be buying one of those wheels that shapes sheet metal.
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:43 AM   #25
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Here's another thread that may interest you.

And another.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:35 PM   #26
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Thanks for the resource...sheds light on the best way to move forward.
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Old 05-23-2008, 11:43 PM   #27
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Just a couple of thoughts...

I would agree that you would have to do something to compensate for the extra weight back at the end of your trailer and its impact on the tongue weight. I think, though, that you could do one of two things besides what has already been discussed.

1.) Consider mounting a third axle behind the current two. There are some really large Airstreams that have three axles.

2.) Consider moving other heavy items toward the front. Actually that was mentioned in a couple of posts but a bit tounge and cheek I think. I am thinking about where you might consider putting more holding tanks for example. If you are doing major interior changes maybe move heavy kitchen things forward.

Malcolm
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Old 05-26-2008, 02:56 PM   #28
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I really don't want to move too far away from the original floor plan because it works for me and there is no need to shift weight inside the trailer.

I think the best way thus far, from ideas given here, is add 5 ft both front and back. Utilizing possibly 8-10" c-channel located beneath the original frame, above two new 7000# axles. A holding tank mounted on the opposite end of the golf cart to counter weight of cart and generator.
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