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Old 05-22-2008, 08:39 PM   #21
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They don't know. That is why the specify limits. It bounds the problem. There is an operational envelope. If you have ever been on a military cargo aircraft you will note that the floor is numbered in inches from the nose. That way when they load plan and the ground crew loads up the floor, the loadmasters can check where the pallets are placed. The CG (as I metioned earlier) needs to be within an operational window given the amount of fuel, weight, temperature, etc.

Same thing for toy haulers. The designers optimize for an operational window. The trailer needs to be safely towable both loaded and empty, this implies a CG shift. Wheel placement and trailer weight distribution are set up so that expected maximum loads, when propely loaded do not move the CG by more than their designed amount. That is why it is so incredibly dangerous to overload a trailer. If you do it wrong bad things can happen. I think we can all recall some pop star a few years ago had her 300 pound body guards and all the luggage in the rear of the AC and they went tango uniform in a rather tragic fashion on take-off. A perfect example.

Depending on where the weight is placed implies a different axle configuration. Your trailer needs to provide adequate tongue weight in both loaded and empty configurations, with and without cart. Also, as a tag along, there are sway and lateral lever arm problems. There are solutions, hensley for example, but best to start off with something that at least tries to be stable.

The guy who mentioned tandems on a class 8 trailer had the right idea. There is always the bridge law to screw up drivers, but by sliding the 5th wheel and rear tandems, I think the rule of thumb was like 400lbs a notch. A couple of notches makes a big difference in ride quality. I know from experience.
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Old 05-23-2008, 04:09 AM   #22
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People tell Jessie James he can't build it all the time and he does it anyhow. Go for it man... add 5 feet to the front of the trailer for a huge texas meat smoker and then it will balance out the weight of the golf cart. You would be the hit of every rally. You could feed folks brisket from the front and drive them home after. Dreams are not ment for crushing, ants are.
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Old 05-23-2008, 07:08 AM   #23
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Thumbs up Good Luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
If you are going to do this, have you just considered buying a longer trailer and doing some heavy mods that way?

I do recall the factory showing at an RV trade show a concept of a garage in the back of an Airstream. This was done by the factory and very recently. I am sure they would provide you some direction on what they did. I do not think their garage concept unit held a car, but it's a step I had never seen Airstream take. Somewhere on this forum are pictures of it. I think it was at the Lousiville show the year before last. If anyone could find that link and post it, I am sure it would be of some use to you.

My thought is, why get one that is too short, get the longer one and do major upgrades to it, rather than weld pig iron together, you can in fact have one solid piece of frame with additional supports.

Keep in mind, I have no idea how of if this would work, but since the factory did it recently, I am sure it can be done. The quesiton is how much time and $$$ do you want to throw at it. Nearly any dream is possible with time and $$$.
Here's that thread.
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Old 05-23-2008, 07:20 AM   #24
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That is very cool...unfortunately, I already own the 25 footer and it doesn't address the rack above the trailer.

That motorcycle gives me some ideas. Looks like I will be buying one of those wheels that shapes sheet metal.
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Old 05-23-2008, 07:43 AM   #25
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Here's another thread that may interest you.

And another.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:35 PM   #26
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Thanks for the resource...sheds light on the best way to move forward.
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:43 PM   #27
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Just a couple of thoughts...

I would agree that you would have to do something to compensate for the extra weight back at the end of your trailer and its impact on the tongue weight. I think, though, that you could do one of two things besides what has already been discussed.

1.) Consider mounting a third axle behind the current two. There are some really large Airstreams that have three axles.

2.) Consider moving other heavy items toward the front. Actually that was mentioned in a couple of posts but a bit tounge and cheek I think. I am thinking about where you might consider putting more holding tanks for example. If you are doing major interior changes maybe move heavy kitchen things forward.

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Old 05-26-2008, 01:56 PM   #28
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I really don't want to move too far away from the original floor plan because it works for me and there is no need to shift weight inside the trailer.

I think the best way thus far, from ideas given here, is add 5 ft both front and back. Utilizing possibly 8-10" c-channel located beneath the original frame, above two new 7000# axles. A holding tank mounted on the opposite end of the golf cart to counter weight of cart and generator.
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Old 05-30-2008, 07:40 AM   #29
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/568626-post1252.html

This post looked germane to our subject.
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Old 05-30-2008, 07:58 AM   #30
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You could easily fit a golf cart on the front of that thing.

Maybe a Sherman tank or two as well.
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Old 05-31-2008, 04:50 PM   #31
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Thanks for posting that picture...interesting. I suppose the bolts, depending on size, are no different than a hitch pin.

All I wanted is ~5ft in the back. But I think I want 5 ft in the front as well to keep the weight distributed evenly without too many problems. I am looking at metal weight and pros and cons of adding on to the frame vs. a new main w/sub frame. I am leaning towards a main frame w/original AS frame attached but that means new axles due to excessive weight.
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