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Old 12-01-2015, 07:14 AM   #1
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Good morning,

I have my 65 Safari gutted, floor removed, welder comes Saturday to beef up and repair any frame damage. I am looking for a structured way to go about replacing all the systems. I don't want to put a floor down and then realize I need to remove it for something I forgot.

Is my next step replacing the belly pan? Also, can I run PEX tubing under the floor with heat tape for winter protection?
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:28 AM   #2
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Also, can I run PEX tubing under the floor with heat tape for winter protection?
By having the plumbing above the floor, it will be heated by the furnace. With it under the floor, you are chancing freezing/burst lines if you do not have your heat tape switched on. As well, if you need to do any servicing to your plumbing later on, it will be more accessible and easier to work on if it is NOT under the floor. The only tubing that runs under the floor is the copper tubing for the propane.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:02 AM   #3
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No rush to replace belly pan. Why not wait until you are certain you do not need access. You may need to run copper there for LP as well as any tanks you may add. I would suggest plumbing, electrical, then furniture/cabinetry.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:33 AM   #4
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I just did this on my 1962 Safari and I did it this way once the interior was completely gutted:

1. Removed belly pan
2. Removed floor
3. Supported shell and lifted
4. Installed new floor
5. Installed plumbing drainage lines and tanks
6. Installed new axle and wired brakes
7. Installed new belly pan

For me the only thing between the floor and belly pan that I will never have access to again is the brake wiring and drain lines. I didn't add a gray water tank and my black water tank is the original that sits on top of the floor. But I did convert the dump valve and got that all plumb up and tested before installing the belly pan.
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Old 12-02-2015, 02:57 PM   #5
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Thanks for all the tips. I am sure you will be hearing more from me as this project progresses.
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Old 12-02-2015, 05:01 PM   #6
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Old 12-02-2015, 05:19 PM   #7
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:04 PM   #8
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The acronym is: PEMDAS

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Old 12-02-2015, 09:45 PM   #9
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You didn't mention removing the shell. Is this a full monte restoration?

If so -- and it is like our '65 Caravel was -- you need to run the bellypan under the shell. See post 17 of this thread.

Totally agree with PEX above the floor.
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:48 PM   #10
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...For me the only thing between the floor and belly pan that I will never have access to again is the brake wiring and drain lines. ...
Consider access panels for maintenance as you do the bellypan and running the brake lines in conduit (plastic or metal) for future access.
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:12 AM   #11
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PEMDAS...Glad you got it.

I'm hoping not to remove the shell for fear that I will never get it back on properly. I like the idea of access panels. Thanks.
I understand why plumbing should be above the floor, but I am not a cold weather camper. I was hoping by running the long run from the H2O tank upfront to the water heater, bathroom, etc in the back, I wouldn't have to hide the water line.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:25 AM   #12
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I ran the water line to my fresh tank down the street side of the trailer on the floor right up against the wall. I don't know how it came from the factory as the tank was gone when I got the trailer. I have about a 3-4 foot gap where the pex line exits the cabinet behind the fridge and then goes behind the arm rest of the gaucho. My fresh tank is under the front window. I made a little plywood cover for it, stained to match the cabinets. It is just big enough to lay over the 1/2 pex at a 45 degree angle and cover it. Most times when camping I have "stuff" sitting on the floor there so it is never noticed. I also ran the wire from the water pump relay to the switch zip tied to the pex pipe.
I did not install grey tanks but if I were doing it again that would be a priority. Many of our state parks and Corps of Engineer parks don't have sewer and taking a blue boy to catch grey water is a pain.
On your floor, consider treating all the edges in the rear, where it was rotted, with a good grade expoxy resin ( I like West System but there are others) before you install it. I applied several coats to the end grain and in band about 6 inches wide top and bottom on all the flooring I replaced (everything from the axles to the rear). All my rot was along the edges so I figured several coats of a good marine grade epoxy would prevent any damage in the future. Only have once to do it right.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:40 PM   #13
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Good ideas, Bruce. Thanks.

I have a daughter in graduate school at Ole Miss. Beautiful little town, Oxford.

Dave
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