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Old 11-25-2008, 03:17 PM   #169
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On my picture above, the propane furnace is located under the range/oven. The furnace isn't very tall, has two discharges towards the front room/door area and two 4" round ducts going to the rear, one to the bedroom, the other to a discharge in the OEM bath area (right above the axles).
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:26 PM   #170
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Summer =) good to hear from you. I'm currently playing the "no propane" game simple because I haven't run the lines yet. =) a space heater is in my imediate future to be sure.

Question of the day - Heating the airstream

Is there an electric vented replacement for my propane vented heater?

the one thing I don't have is my original propane heater, and unfortunately my stove is currently going to cover the vent hole.

If I relocate the heater slightly back (towards the axles) would it be problematic to bend the vent pipes? (I can't figure out why it would, but maybe someone else knows)

I'm a little flustered with all of the vent placements, but as much as I look at the other (old) floor plan it just looks inefficient and wrong.
Cursh,

Check out the propane heaters at this site. Many (maybe all) are intended for RV use and most if not all use modern ODS (Oxygen Depletion Sensor) technology that allows the heater to work without a vent. The seem to be nice and compact and they can mount on the wall.

uscatalytic.com

I believer there are other brands of similar heaters out there too.

Malcolm
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:11 AM   #171
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There are also some pricey high efficiency electric heaters on that site that i might have to consider for the distant future of my "home"

Great link Malcolm - Thank you

And this fun little "heat loss calculator" wants me to get a 6000btu heater.

using the dimensions from Vintage Trailer Supply replacement glass I found I have 26 sq ft of windows, and selected 3 exterior walls.

http://hearth.com/php/room.php
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:25 AM   #172
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Other possibilities...if you have or plan to have an air conditioner, usually there are electric heat strips (resistive heating "3.4 btus per watt") which can be added to the air conditioner for the heat cycle.

Also, there are some Heat Pump air conditioners out there, Carrier 15,000 btu units come to mind, which provide heat and cool and should be able to do it using much fewer watts than resistive heating.
Carrier RV Air Conditioner Heat Pump 15,000 btu Complete - $..
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:36 AM   #173
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Halp!

I'm having trouble bending the angle iron (and by iron I of course mean aluminum) i purchased at lowes to my satisfaction. I would like to to flush the walls as a sort of wall trim/attachment bracket, and while I can bend it pretty easily with my hands it gets all wobbly. I'm going to look into jigs and such, but figured that someone here probably has already worked all kinks out of this.

much thanks.
-Ben
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:50 AM   #174
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Cursh,

Go to harbor freight and buy a cheap hand brake that will do the job. Easier, and worth the investment.

Steve
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:49 AM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cursh View Post
I'm having trouble bending the angle iron (and by iron I of course mean aluminum) i purchased at lowes to my satisfaction. I would like to to flush the walls as a sort of wall trim/attachment bracket, and while I can bend it pretty easily with my hands it gets all wobbly. ...-Ben
If you're trying to get "L" extrusion to curve, you need a shrinker/stretcher tool. I've seen them at Harbor Freight for about $180 for the pair.

A brake is for bending sheet metal. You can make fixtures for forming long strips of sheet into "L" bracket with varying included angles (as well as curved), but it requires a lot of wood to make all the unique female pieces and the corresponding male pieces for clamping everything tight tight tight. Then you have to carefully hammer the edge down.

There's no reall good solution for the home shop when you need double curvature.

Zep

PS--and there's no better 2,000th post than to be talking about forming aluminum! Yay!!
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:58 AM   #176
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Zep, congratulations on 2,000.

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Old 02-01-2009, 12:20 PM   #177
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Cursh, if you're looking for simple L-shaped angle extrusions to serve as a molding for applications like going along the back edge of a countertop (thus, nor real curvature), then you can buy them fairly inexpensively at the big box stores or from several various online suppliers. I don't recall all of the suppliers, but I would start with McMaster-Carr or Online Metals or even Vintage Trailer Supply.

If you need long pieces that curve, then like Zep said, it can be pretty difficult. I'd think about trimming out using something else, like the various cove moldings, screen moldings, or even crown moldings made from highly flexible poluyurethane. These can be readily found at your big blue and orange box stores, and you can paint them out to complement your interior.

If you let us know the application, we might be able to offer some other ideas that will approximate what you really want.

-Marcus
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:22 PM   #178
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I was going to trim/attach my interior walls with it. so counter high up to the center line. I might just take my dremel to it to score it repeatedly so it will curve - see how that looks. I've got enough hidden angle needs to use up what I've already purchased.
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Old 02-02-2009, 08:13 AM   #179
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I was going to trim/attach my interior walls with it. so counter high up to the center line. ...
Aha! This can be done, since you're only bending the extrusion in one direction. I doubt that scoring the channel will allow you to get smooth bends. You really need a shrinker.

When I do the same task, I've been lucky enough to have recovered all the edge pieces and just reuse them. The down side is that I make my walls out of 1/2" ply, so the channel is too narrow, so I have to slot the plywood to accept the edge piece.

I've also run into a problem in the 27' Overlander with the whole shell flexing when I hit a bad bump, and the plywood has come out of the edge piece, only to be chopped and splintered when the shell comes back to shape. (I think the 1/8" bakelite partitions that Airstream used tends to slip back in to the edge piece, so this kind of damage isn't seen, even though the shell is still flexing more than the edge piece can accommodate.) This is much less of a problem for the shorter models. But it does make me think of alternative ways to restrain the partitions, something with a deeper "slot", like two blocks of wood screwed to the shell on either side of the partition. (I use the word "blocks" loosely, here.)

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Old 02-02-2009, 12:24 PM   #180
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In order to approximate a curve, you could slot the material and then cover it, as Carlos Ferguson did here for his window trim on his '62 Safari:




Zep--

I've been thinking about using thicker plywood on my bulkhead wall as well, so it's interesting to hear about the issues that come along with that. I too have all of my original curved u-channel edge pieces, so I'd need to slot the edge of the plywood to accomodate them, as you did. I wonder if then drilling holes and running screws/bolts all the way through the plywood/metal/plywood/metal sandwich would keep the bulkhead in place, or just act as a point stress load that would tear the materials apart?

Anyway, thanks for the insight, I always learn something when I read your posts.

-Marcus
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Old 02-02-2009, 12:37 PM   #181
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... I wonder if then drilling holes and running screws/bolts all the way through the plywood/metal/plywood/metal sandwich would keep the bulkhead in place, or just act as a point stress load that would tear the materials apart?...
I think it would be a point stress. I'm opting for a deeper "U-channel" made from two L-channels to handle the top third of the partition. That's where the flex in the shell shows up to most. I do use screws through the channel and the plywood along the more vertical part (lower 2/3) of the partitions--this keeps the partion attached to the wall as it flexes.

When I first did this, I actually sliced off part of the plywood to make the edge narrow enough to fit the U-channel. Now I use a small blade that fits in a router to cut a very thin kerf along the center of the edge of the plywood--works much better and conceals half of the U-channel.

One more thing you have to be concerned about--don't built box cabinets with backs. The back has to be left open so that the box will flex. Otherwise, if you attach it to both the floor and the wall, you'll break the joints pretty quickly. I retain the side-to-side dimension (eg, drawer width dimension) by always having a permanent shelf approximately at the mid point (top to bottom) of the box.

Zep
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Old 02-07-2009, 10:38 PM   #182
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Now thats what i call music 27

so - the front of my safari is going to be very electronics heavy (1973 marantz 2015 and a 3d modeling design desktop PC (think heavy gaming computer I guess)) and I've started to look into patching into the 110V system. The Marantz is going in the front endcap overhead cabinet (it needs to be extended 3" but after taking it apart its going to be very easy to do)
there is a pretty white cable with green writing on it right behind that cabinet that I'm pretty sure is 110 (all the other white with green wires have been up to this point) and I was going to install an outlet in that cabinet and one closer to the floor for my desktop, but that got me to thinking about the loads on that circuit and wire. Do I need to get a bigger breaker box to handle all of this electricity? I feel like thats going to be a bunch more work and would like to place that on a higher priority so that I don't have interior walls and such blocking the removal of the overhead panels.)
Lastly I have something cycling on and off - its the fuse box next to my battery - every 8-20 seconds it clicks twice in the span of about a half a second and between the clicks all of the 12V lights dim. It just started happening (at least with this frequency) when I unplugged the 110V for the first time in about 2 months. Any Ideas? I might end my own life if I don't fix it. It clicks if the 110V is plugged in and the battery is unplugged - it clicks if the 110V is unplugged and the battery is plugged in - I'm very very lost with this one.


so - Cliffnotes -

I want to install two outlets for higher load electronic equipment - do I need to upgrade anything or watch out for anything to do this safely?

The little box next to my Battery is clicking loudly every 8-20 seconds or so - why? how do I stop it?

Much Love - Cursh
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