I am encouraged by your good humor after a string of disasters. I hope you mend fast.
If I read correctly, you are intending to sell the Land Cruiser that almost caught on fire. Has the cause of that been discovered and fixed? If not, unless you sell it to someone headed for Yukon Terr., all that heat may not be appreciated by the next owner.
That exchange of trailers offered to you may be the best deal around. You can have an Airstream owner inspect the deal (a good idea considering your experiences so far). Somewhere on this forum I think there's a list of Forum members who will inspect.
The Land Cruiser has been repaired on many levels.
it no longer runs hot, It no longer ports exhaust against the rear floor boards
it no longer gets 8mpg
its a pretty nice truck at this point, wish I could keep it.
As much trouble as I have had with communications with P&S I don't think they are trying to screw me over. I'm asking all of the questions I would look into in person, and I know that the P&S guys know enough about trailers to inspect, and give me honest answers.
I'll check the list for someone in the toledo area though as it can't hurt to be safe with such things.
thanks for the advice and concern =)
__________________
- I am sorry that my train of thought is so hard to board
1988 C20 Suburban 454
1967 Safari 22' (like a fish)
"genius, talent, and luck have very little to do with success. The Successful all have one thing in common - persistance"
for the first time in almost a year I live in the same town as my airstream.
in the distance there you can see my new tow vehicle - I haven't been able to get rid of the LC yet, but I had enough laying around to pick up that beast. It's currently getting 8mpg towing which I think will improve with a little work.
at this moment I'm trolling around looking for answers to some of my big questions.
1. is the 120V system independent of the batteries? does it only work when you are physically plugged in? all of my interior lights work and my battery charges off the 7pin trailer hook up, but I'm getting nothing out of the outlets. I can only assume that my battery charger is either broken or it only charges (and doesn't function as an inverter to convert battery power to a 120V charge)
2. Did the company re manufacturing stop making the 66-68 window glass? Vintage trailering is sold out and not letting me order any glass on back order. I'm in need of one medium piece (all other glass is intact and original)
3. are there any success stories for stripping the vinyl off the interior aluminum? I'm going to pull all of it to reinsulate and would like to put bare aluminum back up. Would prefer to reuse the original pieces.
__________________
- I am sorry that my train of thought is so hard to board
1988 C20 Suburban 454
1967 Safari 22' (like a fish)
"genius, talent, and luck have very little to do with success. The Successful all have one thing in common - persistance"
- Melon
Last edited by Cursh; 11-09-2008 at 10:58 AM..
Reason: html doesn't work on forums
You can get an inverter to change 12 v to 120 v, but you will run down the batteries so fast you'll regret you did it after you've spent the money. It can either be wired into the system, or a small one can be plugged into a 12v socket for short periods to charge small items like a laptop or run a small 120 v TV, emphasis on small. Then you'll want a generator to keep the batteries charged…
Buy some books on RVing to learn all this stuff. Woodahl's RV Owner's Handbook explains how things work and what to maintain and fix in great detail. There are other books on other things you need to know.
The Forum is good for Airstream issues and some of the more general questions, but some books will give you a good base in understanding.
Looks like your electrical questions have been answered. As for your question about stripping the vinyl coating, yes it has been performed successfully in the past. This thread mentions the process and things that worked:
wow, while I was slowly working my way through posts with 66-68 and "windows" in them the other two questions were knocked out =)
You guys are great. I've got a couple books on going off the grid that I'm trying to apply to my Airstream, but I see that as a sort of later date thing. First I would like to be able to live in it.
My hope is that one day i will have 2-3 batteries and a couple PV panels so that if power goes out I can keep on rocking
__________________
- I am sorry that my train of thought is so hard to board
1988 C20 Suburban 454
1967 Safari 22' (like a fish)
"genius, talent, and luck have very little to do with success. The Successful all have one thing in common - persistance"
Well i keep running into space issues (which is kinda the point)
The big problem is that I'm going to live in it full time so its a completely different dynamic than what they were designed for.
Realizations:
I would like the opportunity for privacy while someone else is in the Airstream (bahbu). [ex:someone comes over and you need to change]
I do not want to have to convert my bed into seating for guests.
so I've put together another floor plan.
The red block is a love seat type thing. I have plans to have a removeable table for eating.
the oven opens towards the door, not the bed.
its based on the double floor plan for early 60s 24'ers
any way - if you see any obvious problems let me know.
=)
__________________
- I am sorry that my train of thought is so hard to board
1988 C20 Suburban 454
1967 Safari 22' (like a fish)
"genius, talent, and luck have very little to do with success. The Successful all have one thing in common - persistance"
P.S. - I'm planning on floating the kitchen sink faucet in the Herb garden (if thats a concern)
__________________
- I am sorry that my train of thought is so hard to board
1988 C20 Suburban 454
1967 Safari 22' (like a fish)
"genius, talent, and luck have very little to do with success. The Successful all have one thing in common - persistance"
Are you going to build a cabinet to house that oven? It will take up more room that your picture shows. I would reconsider your oven in this position, but that is just me.
Just wondering - do you really need a full oven and 4 burner unit. A lot of full timers go with a simple 2 burner cook top and perhaps a microwave for when you are hooked to the grid -- you could probably save a lot of real estate that way.
I also have to express my amusement that a college student, even when mocking out living space, shows their bed unmade... just teasing - ;-)
best of luck in your project.
__________________ Digger Bear
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
Steve - kind of - I was planning on siding the oven - it has some sort of chrome trim on the side that looks like you could slide painted wood into.
Digger/Cameron - I like the idea of having the whole oven, but was considering throwing a two burner unit in the corner and throwing a large toaster oven below it.
it would allow me to push that wall back so its directly across from the other bedroom wall. and use the original furnace placement. (i was planning on still using the same furnace holes in the exterior skin by running bent exhaust pipes[i hope this makes sense])
All of the working parts are basically in the same place (except for the oven and sink) the only major change is that the fridge is now going to be a custom chest style that is much larger than the original. This should help cut energy costs and gives me a lot of counter space as long as I think ahead when cooking and get everything out at once.
__________________
- I am sorry that my train of thought is so hard to board
1988 C20 Suburban 454
1967 Safari 22' (like a fish)
"genius, talent, and luck have very little to do with success. The Successful all have one thing in common - persistance"
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