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Old 08-18-2016, 04:34 PM   #15
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1970 25' Tradewind
anderson , South Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 31
Change axles

One man job on my 1970 25 ft Land Y. Concrete pad with two floor jacks and
Set of Jack stands. Impact wrench and torque wrench. All bolt holes we're
Exact and no mods. Used Monroe shocks. Sold old axles for $100 bucks. Axles
Even had aluminum I'D tags with the origional part number a d model on them.
Picked them up at vender factory in Jackson Center. Total cost through Inland
Rv $2000. Easy and worthwhile job for a 70 year old. Hope you can do the same
BEST WISHES and good day. B. Cooke
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Old 08-18-2016, 05:16 PM   #16
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1972 29' Ambassador
Boynton Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 314
I dropped in some complete axles that I purchased from Colin Hyde a couple months ago. I think that's the way to go, as you probably need brakes and shocks, as well. Comes with everything, ready to go. A word of warning: some have commented that Colin take take forever to fill the order, but that was not the case with me. I was quite happy with the service.

I put on a lift kit, so I didn't have to enlarge the slots for the axles. Now I fear no parking lot swale! I was dragging going over driveways, but no more. I did have to re-drill the holes for the lift kit mount, however.

I sure wish that I'd had thegreatleys around to slap some sense into me about insulation before I started the interior reno! I wound up not taking down the interior. You'd think that an Airstream would reflect the heat, but nooooo! I recently installed a second A/C, and it can still barely keep up with the hot Florida sun. Whatever you can do to turn your trailer into a huge YETI ice chest will be ever so worth it down the line!
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:02 PM   #17
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1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuzyHomemakr View Post
I put on a lift kit
...and if I had to do it again, I would have done that, too. Couple inches extra clearance would be nice.
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:59 AM   #18
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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Originally Posted by earthmama9 View Post
Hey Alan,

Thanks for your response! We do not have the $$$ right now to replace the axles BUT we will definitely take your suggestion to wait until we're actually on the road to make the call. I anxiously await the "glassless counter test".

Sarah
A couple of comments: First, you should take a few minutes to really consider your budget for this rebuild. If you don't have the $ for new axles right now, you may be in for a surprise when you go to buy some other major appliances. It seems like no matter what I have bought for my trailer, the price of entry starts at $500.

Second, if your previous owner really rewired the entire trailer, then I would assume they must have opened up all the walls, and I would expect they would have replaced the insulation during that operation. If they rewired it without opening up the walls, then you probably have a kludged togther mess for wiring. As far as what is the best insulation, there is much debate, but with only 1.5" to wok with, whether you use space aged materials, or tried and true fiberglass, you will be lucky to get around R6. If you already have new insulation, I wouldn't mess with it.

good luck!
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Old 08-19-2016, 12:21 PM   #19
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1992 25' Excella
Venice , Florida
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Posts: 52
This is my reply to the question, did I replace / install axles myself.

Yes, I removed the old axles & took multiple measurements & pictures, and ordered complete units from Colin Hyde, who concurred with my measurements . The new units came with everything already installed...(Took 8 weeks) just jack into place & install 4 bolts per axle.
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:13 PM   #20
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1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
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I had my axles changed at JC and the cost was $1,500 per axle all included (axles, hubs, brakes, labor & taxes). As well, I was able to upgrade from 4,000-lb axles to 4,500-lb axles at no extra cost. As part of the install, a wheel alignment was done. Are the do-it-yourselfers also able to align the wheels (toe-in and camber)? If so, please share how you did it.
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:10 PM   #21
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1992 25' Excella
Venice , Florida
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Axles were pre-bent at the factory and nothing further was required...as long as the main bolt holes line up, there is nothing further to do as far as I know. Tires are wearing fine but I do not put a lot of mileage on, maybe 2-3 k / yr. I know they will dry rot before I wear the tread down. I did what Colin Hyde recommended for tires...
Michelin 235 / 15 LT
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:39 PM   #22
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1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
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Pre-bent does not mean aligned. With 2 to 3 k/yr it may not be a big deal. I tow about 15 k/yr, so alignment is important.
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:47 AM   #23
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1967 26' Overlander
Spartanburg , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthmama9 View Post
Hey Jacob,

Helpful information, indeed! When you upsized your axle for 12" brakes did you have to modify the frame to fit the thicker axle tube? On their blog, TheGreatleys mentioned having to modify the frame in order to get all the bolts to line up.

Also, did you install the new axles and brakes yourself? If so, was it a fairly straightforward change out or something a newbie should probably shy away from?

Many thanks,
Sarah
I was not physically able to install the axles myself so I used a local heavy trailer/truck repair shop. The axles came fully assembled with new brakes, lug nuts, mounting bolts and shock brackets that had to be welded on which took about 10 minutes. The slots in the mounting plates had to be enlarged slightly by using a small cut-off wheel on a 4" side grinder. We elected to remove approx. 1/4" from the rear of the slots and used the original front edge of the slot to ensure correct alignment. We also had to drill new mounting holes after each axle was in place as none of the holes matched up but that was no problem. The original Henschen axles had 3/4" wooden shims between the mounting bracket and the frame rail and the new axle brackets were 1" taller so the trailer stood 1/4" taller when finished. Sorry I don't have pics but hope this description in helpful. BTW the shop I used was Ledbetter Welding Service in Inman, SC.
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:36 AM   #24
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1967 26' Overlander
Cortez , Colorado
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Need shocks for 68 Overlander

[QUOTE=Bob Cooke;1837264]
. Used Monroe shocks.

Wondering what shocks you purchased? I am about to wonder down this replacement of my axles (have axles) need the shocks.
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:37 AM   #25
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1976 27' Overlander
Delta , British Columbia
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I used the Gabriel shocks from Vintage Trailer Supply. Cost about $25 each plus shipping at the time I did it.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:04 AM   #26
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1967 26' Overlander
Spartanburg , South Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
I had my axles changed at JC and the cost was $1,500 per axle all included (axles, hubs, brakes, labor & taxes). As well, I was able to upgrade from 4,000-lb axles to 4,500-lb axles at no extra cost. As part of the install, a wheel alignment was done. Are the do-it-yourselfers also able to align the wheels (toe-in and camber)? If so, please share how you did it.
Installing the axles, we snugged the new axles to the original front edge of each slot in the side plates to ensure the alignment did not change. The Dexter axle mounting bracket was 1 inch high on top which was snugged to the main frame above it with jacks before drilling mounting holes thru the side plates and axle mounting brackets together. Then to be sure, we measured from the center of the front of the A frame to the center of each wheel hub and again to the front inside edge of each tire after putting the wheel on. All measurements were the same side to side. The trailer rides so much better and now with about 2,000 miles on it there is no sign of uneven tire wear. Time and miles will tell us more.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:57 AM   #27
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There are adjustments that are made to the toe-in and camber which may be slight and not readily seen, just like for a car. JC does an alignment as part of the install and if you go there you can have it done. Correct alignment is not just for tire wear, but also reduces stress on the wheel bearings.
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