Newbie question about frame rust

[lonewolf1977]

We did a frame ON restoration. After the original floor was out, we used 5/8" plywood pieces under the c-channel to keep the shell lifted off the frame and to keep it in place. That allowed us to sand off the rust, clean up the frame, and then paint with POR15. Then we put in new axles. After that point, we then put a new floor in. It's doable with a shell on, not the easiest, but we did things as we had time & money. So a shell off was not going to work for us.

[licoricewhip]

Originally Posted by lonewolf1977

We did a frame ON restoration. After the original floor was out, we used 5/8" plywood pieces under the c-channel to keep the shell lifted off the frame and to keep it in place. That allowed us to sand off the rust, clean up the frame, and then paint with POR15. Then we put in new axles. After that point, we then put a new floor in. It's doable with a shell on, not the easiest, but we did things as we had time & money. So a shell off was not going to work for us.

Thank you for the reply! I'm happy to hear people are able to reasonably clean and paint the frame without lifting the shell. I'm having sort of a hard time visualizing what you mean about using plywood under the c-channel to keep the shell off the frame, but maybe it'll make more sense when I start digging in. Reviewed your blog, btw; so stoked people like you journal these things!

[Joyflea]

I too didn’t take body off frame . On tread you can see some photos of floor gone but small pieces of wood holding up body .

[Joyflea]

Here’s what I did .

[licoricewhip]

You guys are all amazing and make the idea of taking this project on more comfortable for me.

Joyflea, how did you lift the shell? Just used some jacks to lift it? Your frame looks awesome after repairs!

Lumatic, I mentioned replacing the insulation only because I've read it wicks fluid and promotes rust, and isn't as effective as modern insulation.

[Joyflea]

Slid blocks in as I removed the floor . I used3/4 and floor was 5/8. If you block as you go it’s preety easy . You can do a lot with a crow bar . The red pearling is not the frame repair . It is boxing for my larger tanks . This is the frame repair . Most of this was rusted through with outriggers just hanging . Frame was 1/8x5” and was replaced the crossmembers were 14ga . and I made new one out of 6” metal building c also 14ga .

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by licoricewhip

Lumatic, I mentioned replacing the insulation only because I've read it wicks fluid and promotes rust, and isn't as effective as modern insulation.

First I have not replaced the original pink stuff. some folks have used spray foam insulation and yes it is a little more effective. I would compare R values. I think the gain is not worth the time and expense for the walls. Also heard foam deteriorates over time from tailer movement. Now the insulation in the belly pan is another manner. I have heard it can get soggy, but I live in the southwest.
the belly is designed for some air movement. More of a problem is rodents nesting. Some folks do without belly pan insulation all together. My 71 was a mouse condo when I got it. Never changed the insulation. It did smell a bit mousey. Now, 10 years later there is a very slight mousey smell but I have gotten used to it I guess.

Mouse Mummy from one of my Airstreams.

[licoricewhip]

Here’s a photo of my rear outriggers. Subfloor is water damaged and will need to go, but can I avoid welding so far?

[Lumatic]

no photo

[licoricewhip]

Edited, my bad.

[Lumatic]

The rust looks superficial. I don't think these outriggers need replacement, just cleaning and painting. The key is if the rust has eaten through the metal.

[licoricewhip]

Yeah they fee like they are still pretty supportive. Awesome. Hoping the rest looks the same!