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01-21-2013, 08:24 PM
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#21
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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I'll take a close up tomorrow.
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01-22-2013, 06:01 PM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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Photo of tire cover
Here is a picture of the original tire cover
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01-22-2013, 08:47 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
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Very nice thank you!
How are things going?
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02-09-2013, 12:47 AM
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#24
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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Newbie UPDATE - gathering the pieces
I am self employed and have found I have to be pretty discipled with myself; therefore I'm prohibited from doing Airstream stuff until my work is done. I am caught up today, so here's my update.
My general theory is to gather as many of the pieces I can before I bring the contractors in.
First up is to replace the subfloor with pine plywood, and putting in natural cork flooring everywhere except the bathroom. I have cork in my home, I love the feel under your feet, and I think it will help with sound Since the front pull out travel lounge is out anyway to be have the foam replaced, I'm going to instal cork seam to seam in the front of the trailer, and in the bedroom. The original fabric of the front lounge is really starting to grow on me so I think I am going to stay vintage there. The cabinets in the AS are real walnut veneer and overall, are in good shape. One overhead storage in the bedroom got some water damage along the way from the a/c, and there are some patches and sun fading to repair, here and there. I have started in with the Liquid Gold on all the wood. I am going to have the contractor remove one side of the cabinet above the fridge, put in a sturdy wood wall and put a mount for a flat screen there. The other side of the cabinet will be used for directv, dvr, stereo. Keeping most of the galley, as is; but planning to add a tin copper burnt umber backsplash. I only have one of the two original slide doors, and I am going to move the one I have to the bathroom.
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02-09-2013, 01:44 AM
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#25
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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Newbie Update Bathroom Plans
I am starting with a completed gutted bathroom. Nothing original at all. Blank. I'm going to start with replacing the sub floor, and using a single sheet of vinyl laminate in a river rock pattern. I am also going to rebuild the wardrobes on each side of the bathroom with some cedar lumber I have left over. The closet on one side will have a box built into the bottom for the load center and power converter (protected from all water!). Shelves in that closet, bar and shoe holders in the other.
I found a 32' rounded shower tub for the corner, and a half oval brass shower curtain rod with an overhead support (oil rubbed bronze). Im going with Dura Faucet 5 Function Massage head, 60" Stainless steel hose (also oil rubbed bronze) set up (for water on a hose functionality).
1963 trailers came with a porta potty, so no black tank. I don't have the grey tank either. I'm not thrilled at all about pumping poop. My solution: I found a great deal on a brand new incinolet, burn that stuff gone, toilet! No black tank for me!! It draws 15 Watts, so I must plan accordingly. I'm going to run one access to the grey tank, under the floor, running width of the trailer, but within the trailer frame. I'm thinking 25 Gallon tank? Still learning this part.
Between the incinerating toilet, running along the back wall, a custom cabinet with storage for toiletries and linens. Cool counter top with a vessel sink. I think I am going with this hand painted cooper sink from Mexico.
Since I am using Benjamin Moore Alkyd Low Lustre paint for metal, I'm considering using tin on the bathroom walls, and paint them using the same metal paint (maybe in a different tone) to show off the curves of the trailer. I could also use tin molding to have any plumbing or electric, venting infrastructure I might need to hide).
Those are my plans for the bathroom at this point.
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02-09-2013, 01:52 AM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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Bathroom photos, I hope
Here are the photos I tried to post earlier.
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02-09-2013, 01:55 AM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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Bathroom tin tile options
Thinking about using these in the bathroom. Can't decide whether or not to order them with a powder coat in a color, or paint them with the metal paint I will be using throughout.
Considering the cooper one for the kitchen back splash.
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02-09-2013, 02:51 AM
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#28
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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Newbie Electrical, Plumbing, and Propane Plans Too
I've been busy gathering the materials for the electrician. I'm going to have him start by running a 30 Amp supply from the main box at the house and installing basically an RV plug in station with a 30 AMP, 15 AMP outlet (in case I decide to use it for the Christmas light display), water supply, and TV cable. I have been to hardware stores 3 times so far, without luck, to get the load center. I know I need at least one 30/20 fuse, (2) 20/15's and at least two blank spots for growth. I also still need to get a grounding plate.
I picked up 55 Amp converter, but now I think I'm going to go ahead and upgrade it to the 75 Amp version. Both the A/C (Coleman Polar Cub 9200 BTU, with the heat stripe option) and toilet can draw 15 AMP; plus 3 AMPS for each of the Fan-Tastic Vents with thermostats, and rain sensors; Shurflo Revolution Water Pump draws 7.5 Amps (got the in line water filter too), plus I haven't figured for the TV equipment yet...so up to the 75 AMP converter I go...
The 27 Deep Cell Battery came in; I went with the 575/730/160 version, most juice I could get. Have the new cables for that.
I have the water pump, I want to depressurize the current water tank, but still use it. I need to replace all the water lines, and am waiting to see about the water heater. Still working out how to vent the galley sinks, the vanity sink, and shower to the grey tank. I do have this existing hole in the bathroom ceiling?
I found a local place to take my propane tanks to be re-certified, and new regulators; but I still haven't found the propane guy to work on repiping and getting the propane appliances and water heater back on line. I haven't decided what to do with the original propane heating unit next to the stove. The veneer on that panel is pretty whacked. I have the heat stripe in the A/C unit, and plenty of fan power. It would be nice to stay vintage; but I think it really decreases the functionality of that space I might want to use for a table function? I am going to keep the propane light overhead there.
I will be saving any parts I don't use in case the next owner wants to take it back to classic vintage (or I decide to sell off the parts to others looking to rehab other airstreams).
So far, that's the plan!
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02-09-2013, 03:00 AM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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full length mirror on at least one of the wardrobe doors in the bathroom too.
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02-09-2013, 03:31 AM
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#30
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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top tin photo is the pattern I am using in the trailer, the other two are just color samples. Open for any feedback out there.
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02-09-2013, 08:05 AM
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#31
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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I think you need to do some more research before you buy a larger converter.
The A/C does not run off of the converter. The 15 amps it requires is from the 120 volt AC power. (Shore Power)
Not sure what kind of toilet you are planning on. I feel more research is needed there as well. If there is power that requires high wattage. I would think it would be AC power, not 12 volt DC. The 55 amp converter should be more than ample for your needs.
As for the Shore Power, you should install the receptacle that is specifically designed for RV use. In reading thru your comments regarding the outlets and other items on the panel list. I would suggest you acquire qualified help. In most cases you will need a single 120 volt, 30 amp receptacle the is specifically designed for RV or TRAVEL TRAILER use. They are available at Home Depot and other BB stores. It is important that you understand how to wire the receptacle as well as the panel inside the trailer. The proper grounding technics must be followed to the letter. YOUR LIFE AND THAT OF OTHERS WILL DEPEND ON IT!!
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02-09-2013, 08:27 AM
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#32
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Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tredding
1963 trailers came with a porta potty, so no black tank. I don't have the grey tank either. I'm not thrilled at all about pumping poop. My solution: I found a great deal on a brand new incinolet, burn that stuff gone, toilet! No black tank for me!! It draws 15 Watts, so I must plan accordingly. .
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Someone must have updated your bathroom because there would have been a black tank (above the floor)
I have the same fabric on the gaucho, wild huh?
I agree with you about the black tank and am putting in a composting toilet.
Like the embossed metal, the powder coat will be more durable than painting it yourself.
Glad to see another '63!
__________________
Shelly : TAC NH-6 | AIR 41359
Visit my blog!
Parts needed : Braund Antenna front tube fold down model!
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02-09-2013, 08:48 AM
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#33
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Does the toilet require 15 watts of 12 volt power or 15 watts of 120 volt power?
Also when considering converter size. Not all 12 volt devices will be running continuously. Especially since it appears you have 1 battery.
There is a website. Called "The 12 Volt Side of Life" or something like that, which is a good resource. It may be helpful.
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02-09-2013, 04:26 PM
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#34
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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Thank you for the input! I am going to use a bonded electrician for sure! My brain scrambles to watts vs amp thing all the time. I really don't fully understand where the a/c draws the juice. I thought if you are plugged into shore power, juice flows into the converter, which sends the appropriate juice to the fuse box for the 120 systems and sends 12V to the battery to keep it fully charged? If not plugged in, I thought the battery would send juice back to the converter to flow 120 power back to the fuse box to run the electric appliances? Am I off base? Teach me, I can learn! Thanks.
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02-09-2013, 04:33 PM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Foley
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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In the DYI season of redoing an airstream, I remember a grinding plate installed with the fuse box and converter. I have not tracked one down yet, but it's on the list.
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02-09-2013, 05:53 PM
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#36
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tredding
Thank you for the input! I am going to use a bonded electrician for sure! My brain scrambles to watts vs amp thing all the time. I really don't fully understand where the a/c draws the juice. I thought if you are plugged into shore power, juice flows into the converter, which sends the appropriate juice to the fuse box for the 120 systems and sends 12V to the battery to keep it fully charged? If not plugged in, I thought the battery would send juice back to the converter to flow 120 power back to the fuse box to run the electric appliances? Am I off base? Teach me, I can learn! Thanks.
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Normally this is not how it works, a converter only changes 120V AC to 12V DC, an inverter Changes 12V DC to 120V AC.
Normally 120V comes into the trailer goes to the circuit breaker box then to all AC appliances, including the converter which supplies 12V to the battery and 12V lights/appliances.
You can get an inverter/converter (combined unit) which will have 120V go to the inverter/converter then to the circuit breaker box and the 12V and automatically switch from supplying 12V and letting 120V pass through to supplying 120V by inverting from the battery. This would be better with the air conditioner not powered through the inverter/converter since that would quickly drain the battery, also some type of alarm to tell you when you don't have shore power.
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03-21-2014, 01:23 PM
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#37
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New Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Santa Fe
, New Mexico
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
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incinolet
Thank you all for the posts.
TREDDING, I'm now the newbie, could use some help. Did you go with the incinerating toilet? If yes, what has your experience been?
Thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tredding
I am starting with a completed gutted bathroom. Nothing original at all. Blank. I'm going to start with replacing the sub floor, and using a single sheet of vinyl laminate in a river rock pattern. I am also going to rebuild the wardrobes on each side of the bathroom with some cedar lumber I have left over. The closet on one side will have a box built into the bottom for the load center and power converter (protected from all water!). Shelves in that closet, bar and shoe holders in the other.
I found a 32' rounded shower tub for the corner, and a half oval brass shower curtain rod with an overhead support (oil rubbed bronze). Im going with Dura Faucet 5 Function Massage head, 60" Stainless steel hose (also oil rubbed bronze) set up (for water on a hose functionality).
1963 trailers came with a porta potty, so no black tank. I don't have the grey tank either. I'm not thrilled at all about pumping poop. My solution: I found a great deal on a brand new incinolet, burn that stuff gone, toilet! No black tank for me!! It draws 15 Watts, so I must plan accordingly. I'm going to run one access to the grey tank, under the floor, running width of the trailer, but within the trailer frame. I'm thinking 25 Gallon tank? Still learning this part.
Between the incinerating toilet, running along the back wall, a custom cabinet with storage for toiletries and linens. Cool counter top with a vessel sink. I think I am going with this hand painted cooper sink from Mexico.
Since I am using Benjamin Moore Alkyd Low Lustre paint for metal, I'm considering using tin on the bathroom walls, and paint them using the same metal paint (maybe in a different tone) to show off the curves of the trailer. I could also use tin molding to have any plumbing or electric, venting infrastructure I might need to hide).
Those are my plans for the bathroom at this point.
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