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Old 02-13-2015, 03:09 PM   #1
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New floor, now toilet emits smell? New seal?

Hi all, We just installed new wood flooring into our '04 28ft Classic (rear twin beds). Removed the original vinyl/rug.
The installers lifted the toilet in order to install the wood below it. Well, now there is a smell emitting from the bottom (where toilet meets floor) of the toilet ONLY when we turn on the fantastic fan. The only other time we have ever smelled this order is just minutes after dumping the black tank.
My concern, since the wood floor is a bit higher than the original vinyl flooring was there a seal that needed to be replaced or ? Do the installers need to cut the wood around the toilet so it sits in the original height? I called the installers who will be coming out next week, and they suggested they may need to add silicone around the hole (where the toilet slips into the floor?).
Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, OffbeatRVing (Adrian)
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:29 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forums!

I think you have already diagnosed the problem. With the new floor in place, your toilet sits further from the flange, and it has created a gap that is allowing stink to be drawn into the trailer. So either cut the flooring out from around the toilet mount so that it sits at its original height, or you will need some kind of extra-thick seal to fill the gap.

good luck!
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:43 PM   #3
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What he said. The toilet needs to engage the seal properly. I'd just take a pencil and scribe around the base of the toilet. Then lift it, and cut the wood out so that the toilet sits back down where it should and engage the seal properly.

You might be able to find an extra thick seal. If you can, that's a little easier. But, I'd lean more toward making it work with OEM parts so that when you need to replace them, it's easy to just get the part from a normal RV supply house.

If you used like the floating floor, I'd just get a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Take your time and do a neat job, and it'll be just fine. Actually, it wouldn't hurt to make the hole a little big just to allow the floor to float and not be bound. So trace the commode base with a fat pencil, and dremel to the outside line so that you have a 1/16 gap all around the base and you'll be in great shape.

See ya on the road,
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Old 02-13-2015, 04:24 PM   #4
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Great advice from the forum community - Thank you!! I'll contact our floor team and have them cut around the toilet - makes sense to keep all items as OEM as possible.
Thanks, again!!

This forum is absolutely fantastic!!! As is living our dream in an Airstream!! Another reason why we love the Airstream community - always there when you need them.

Thanks!!
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:00 PM   #5
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Trailer toilets generally use a foam seal. The toilet is sitting too high to make a seal. You can get a second seal and stack them or go to the big Box store and get a funnel type seal to sit on top of the foam seal.

I would not cut the floor because you will see the edge of the floor around the toilet and you may have problems getting the toilet to set square on the sub floor.

You do want to take the toilet up to be sure he did not do anything else wrong while there.
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:46 PM   #6
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Howie - great info and definitely have me thinking more about the whole issue. I called our floor guy and told him what's going on. He was open to the best solution. He will definitely lift the toilet and see what's going on underneath with the seal and make sure there's nothing in the way. If we can get by with stacking - great. I'll have a better picture once the toilet is lifted again. I hope this can be fixed without having to order a special seal or making a bigger issue "if" there's any cutting. I'm all for the best solution. I'll keep this updated once they arrive next week Monday morning. Thanks!!
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffbeatRVing View Post
This forum is absolutely fantastic!!! As is living our dream in an Airstream!! Another reason why we love the Airstream community - always there when you need them.
Thanks!!

Don't encourage them... They'll get big heads and become insufferable. Do as I do, just say, "Oh, yeah, I knew that..."

-Red, helping keep the interwebs humble...
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Somebody ought to clean these windows. There is a tremendous buildup of gook all over them...
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:56 PM   #8
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Well , what a stinkin' situation .

If you can smell it , it leaks and not just smell !

Good luck on the fix and Keep us posted .
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Old 02-13-2015, 06:04 PM   #9
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Hi, do not cut the floor around the toilet, It will cause other problems and will never look good. You should always use a new seal because the old one was compressed to fit the old situation. A new seal might be enough or maybe a foam spacer/double seal. Do not use silicone to fix this problem, or duct tape, if you know what I mean.
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Old 02-13-2015, 06:46 PM   #10
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I have to disagree with you. What problems could it cause? The toilet is designed to sit on the flange a certain way. If you change the spacing, it will not seal. I put a floating floor in my trailer and put it around the toilet, not under it. It has been problem free.

Now, you could pull the whole flange assembly out, run the floor in tight, and reinstall a new flange assembly atop the floor. That would be just fine...except that you've now caused a pinch point with the floating floor and you will see issues with it. (ask me how I know...I redid portions of the floating floor because of this).

At any rate, the problem is caused by the toilet not making sufficient contact with the seal to prevent gases from coming through. You either lower the toilet or get a thicker gasket.

Cheers,
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Old 02-13-2015, 06:53 PM   #11
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Panama Red - LOL!!! That's funny!
GlenRitas - i'll definitely keep you all updated
Robertsunrus - I'm leaning more on a non-cut solution. I'm checking with the 'big box' guys on a funnel type seal as mentioned by "HowiE".

I'm sure someone out there has updated their floor and came across the same situation (the toilet is now raised) - So how did they resolve it?? I was hoping someone would jump in and say, WAIT! I've done this and this is how I fixed it. Hmmm.

All great answers. We'll resolve this one way or another come Monday.
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:03 PM   #12
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Jim - I figured someone in this community has gone through when placing a new floating floor. Thanks for your info as well. Well, I like the idea of a thicker gasket, but not sure if they are available. If so, great!! But, if there is any cutting, I will make sure to confirm, then reconfirm the measure twice and cut once motto. I want no issues after the fact.

Thanks
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:06 PM   #13
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Make sure you stay with a foam seal, and not a wax ring. The wax won't expand after compressed, so if there is any movement between toilet and floor, it will make a gap, whereas a foam seal will compress and expand, maintaining the seal... When you say big box, I'm thinking residential wax ring. Do they sell the foam seals at a hardware store? There probably shouldn't be any movement between the toilet and floor, but I'm guessing they used a foam seal originally for a reason...

-Red, hypothesizing here...
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:25 PM   #14
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Hi, I used one in my old house, but it might not work in a trailer. Home Depot and Lowes carry a soft foam/vinyl/rubber toilet ring that seals really well instead of using the old wax ring type seals. It's pretty thick and can compress quite a bit.
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