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Old 12-04-2015, 11:23 AM   #1
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New Airstream, what am I missing ?

Hi everybody
new to us 27fb CCD new from dealer. Towing with 2010 Tundra with topper.

We have the long extension 18 for the equalizer 10000 weight distribution hitch. ( have 12 inch version for sale )

tts TPMS unit with repeater in back of truck ... ( love it )

Original tires, replaced rubber valve stems with steel ones, to accommodate the flow through TPMS sensors, than the tires got balanced.

Waiting on the correct Centramatics ( first shipment was wrong shipped, the regular 5 hole Airstream version, despite me saying that mine had 6 holes , no problem )

Sprayed the wheel housings ( frame parts ) with Undercoating as the was some surface rust seen between the wheels ....

got some link leverer blocks, outdoor carpet, folding chairs, extension for black water tube, extension for electricity, 110 regular adapter

What am I missing in prep to get the rig absolutely safe and ready ?

lets hear
thor
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2013 International 27 FB, 2010 Tundra, Centramatics, Tpi, Equalizer hitch. Selling folding bikes under ThorUSA.com and if I am not working or Airstreaming I love to sail
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Old 12-04-2015, 12:18 PM   #2
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Thumbs up Welcome Aboard....

"Requirements" vary.....you'll have it all worked out within the first 10yrs.

Get out and enjoy!!!


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Old 12-04-2015, 02:04 PM   #3
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z , North Carolina
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Ha!

You're the BOMB Bob. Well put...more like, precisely put!
We gotta share a beer together...someday.

Thor...Bob is on the $. Just get out there buddy. Hope to see you down the road.

Everything is better when the light on your dash says "Trailer Connected".
That's the beauty of an AS: Exploring & learning.
Sea ya down the road,
Gavin
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:40 PM   #4
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Pink Duct Tape

true story - I was on my way to Alumalina, but two days before a tire developed a leak, and so I huffed and I puffed and I changed it for the spare... and THEN I remembered I have Good Sam Roadside Assistance.

Then about half way to Alumalina I got the horrible "trailer disconnected" light. "OH my goodness gracious me" (or something like that issued from my rosebud lips) and I slowly reduced my speed and turned safely into a shopping center where I jumped out and to my horror found that my Hensley had sort of chewed up the connectors to the power cord extension (needed for a Hensley). I could put the cords back together but they'd just fall apart... and as I cast my eyes around frantically for something sturdy to hold the pieces together, my eyes finally fell on a roll of bright pink duct tape. By the time I was sure I had a sturdy safe connection I'd put about 10 yards of tape around the whole mess and mummified it like King Tut. A passerby came over to assist, then bless his dear heart - he went to Starbucks and brought back a latte for me. He also noted that if I used a short bungee cord I could suspend the mended cord from the bumper so that it wouldn't fall afoul of the Hensley during a sharpish turn - which was what caused the problem in the first place.

The moral of the story is of course -
1 Do rely on the kindness of strangers
2 laugh at yourself (enjoy the reaction from "men of Airstream" who just can't believe what a broad will do to a totally blameless Airstream.)
3 be flexible and creative. You will never anticipate every problem or situation. Think outside of the box - a high heel IS a hammer, a sewing machine IS a power tool!

HAVE FUN!
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorusa View Post
What am I missing in prep to get the rig absolutely safe and ready ?
There is no such thing as "absolutely safe."

And an Airstream is a lot like most other major projects— you're never done, you just reach a point where you say, "Okay, that's good enough for now" and preparation gives way to actually using it.

One thing you might consider for electrical safety, get yourself an adapter that allows you to plug into 50-amp service. In many campgrounds, particularly those that are owned by a state or the Federal government, the service pedestals aren't always maintained as well as they could be. Several times I've discovered that when I plug into a 30-amp outlet, the plug is loose, which led to a bad connection, higher electrical resistance, and overheating of the plug. Using an adapter and plugging into 50-amp service usually eliminates that problem, because fewer RVs use 50-amp power and the sockets aren't as worn.
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:49 PM   #6
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Congratulations, nice outfit.

Speaking to "absolutely safe", why the 18" extension for the Equalizer?
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Old 12-05-2015, 01:16 PM   #7
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With our Tundra and Equilizer hitch, we weren't able to fully open the back of the pickup unless we unhitched. We solved the problem by rotating the power jack 90 degrees. But I imagine that's why he did the extension.
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Old 12-05-2015, 01:33 PM   #8
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why not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sid42 View Post
With our Tundra and Equilizer hitch, we weren't able to fully open the back of the pickup unless we unhitched. We solved the problem by rotating the power jack 90 degrees. But I imagine that's why he did the extension.
have standard shank on my equalizer and waiting for 18in. extension shank to arrive, reason ? gives a little more turning radias, saves on bent metal! makes little or no difference in towing.
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Old 12-05-2015, 01:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sid42 View Post
With our Tundra and Equilizer hitch, we weren't able to fully open the back of the pickup unless we unhitched. We solved the problem by rotating the power jack 90 degrees. But I imagine that's why he did the extension.
We had the same challenge with both our 2000 Suburban and our 2013 Sprinter. With the Sprinter, we can "do the tango" and wriggle in around the propane tanks to get small object out of the partially opened doors while hooked up, but certainly can't get the doors fully open.

But it's my understanding that it's best (safest) to have the ball as close to the rear axle of the tow vehicle as possible--hence, the benefit of short overhangs TV's, for example. So now it's a question of handling/safety vs. convenience if you extend the length of the "hook" to make it easier (or even possible) to open the back of the truck. Your call--personally, I'll keep "doing the tango!"
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:11 PM   #10
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Howdy! Welcome aboard!

Mind the advice above... I use a bungee to support the "safety chains" at their midpoint, running it over the hitch. If the bungee gets trashed, no biggie.. But it keeps chains in proper location without dragging or "catching" on the road surface.

Also, a bungee can hold other gear like the umbilical in proper location. .. Or Pink duct tape. ��

Have your "documents"'in ready access, have your trailer inspected .. Or insist dealer handles it. Then every year at license "taxation" time, have it inspected and bring the inspection papers to your "tax" location, just like your car... In Texas anyway.

Some "safety triangles" to set on road when you have a problem...or have your traveling companion at the rear of the AS flashing a bright flashlight to warn on oncoming traffic ... Good luck with those!!but at Least you can try.

Practice removing and replacing spare on the AS.. And know where your lug wrench is... I needed mine 2'weeks ago... A 4-way... No way I could have removed with the "lemon" wrench. So, I am buying a battery operated impact wrench to live in my TV (tow vehicle) with proper sockets to fit TV and AS.

Also, a bottle jack.. Like an 8 ton model, will make lifting truck and or trailer for repair easier. Practice using. Have 2x6-2x12 for support under jack. Shoulders of roads are notoriously soft and the jack alone may sink as you use. Practice using!!!

When servicing AS axles/tires, etc, always have the AS where it can not move/roll.

Some folks carry ramps which they can roll up on using the non-flat tire... But what if both are flat? Then go get the jack!

Heavy leather palm gloves are good for hitching and repairs where you might get things squished. personal embarrassing moment(s)...

Always "something" like locking keys in the AS.... Not yet...��
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:40 PM   #11
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Thumbs up

Paula,

Thought of you when I heard this tune on an old 78 I picked up recently
Don't know if you caught it or not......


I run the cable thru a 'D' ring on the ball lock.....


Bob
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:45 PM   #12
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Here's the problems with long hitch extensions.

Think of the truck as a lever oscillating (swaying) around the it's rear axle, the truck's front tires resisting that oscillation. The longer the lever behind the rear axle, the more leverage a swaying trailer has to overcome the resistance provided the truck's front tires. The shorter the lever behind the truck's rear axle, the more stable the truck is. There is also a relationship of the truck's wheelbase to the length of that rear lever (hitch), the longer the wheelbase the less effect the rear overhang to the hitch ball has (less effective leverage).

Also the longer the hitch extension the less effect the weight distribution bars trying to distribute weight to the truck's front axle. The longer the wheelbase, the less effect the weight distribution bars have. The less effect the weight distribution bars have, the lighter the weight on the front tires to resist sway or lateral movement.

So it is best to shorten the hitch receiver as much as possible to maintain good stability.

We experimented with these conventional hitch problems for a few years, never were satisfied with the stability, and finally bought a Hensley/ProPride style hitch. Any sway or side movement by the trailer is stopped at the truck's rear axle, because of its projected pivot point forward design. No lateral movement is leveraged forward to the truck's steering axle, sway is eliminated. Our 120" wheelbase truck is solid as a rock, as was our 140" wheelbase truck. And the length of the hitch assembly allows full, unobstructed opening of the tail gate of the truck.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:05 PM   #13
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It's hard to say what you'll want or need for a good time camping trip.
You will doscover little things as you go.
Seeing other rigs in campgrounds will help your "wish list" grow, as will hanging out on Airforums-
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:33 PM   #14
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I would suggest a couple of upgrades to the Tundra to make it a better towing vehicle;
-load range E tires, e.g., Michelin A/S2
-Sumo polyurethane axle bumps
-tow mirrors if not already installed

The Tundra will run out of payload fairly quickly especially with a topper installed. The tire upgrade will help mitigate the load.
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