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Old 06-29-2013, 07:43 PM   #323
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Resin or poly shell will give it color permanence and maybe that store bought look!
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:14 PM   #324
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Look closely at the circles: aren't they increasing in height from one end of the mat to the other? If that's true, it's important to copy that so that the tanks drain properly.

Also, like Perry said, the raised circles provide paths for warming air from the furnace to help prevent the tanks from freezing.
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:25 AM   #325
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That is the fun part about the foam cut easy and very workable! And repairing the original may not be the best thought because the material has started breaking down (not all a resin component or combiner) not all materials last as long. We call it brittle but that just because it takes too long to say that component material breakdown resulting in compromised structure. Although some would love to use the acronym. So make new be brave!
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:03 PM   #326
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Tom and my BIL finally pulled up the shell up enough to get this little beauty out. It is the read hold down plate. I am waiting on parts to be fabricated and some more welding before we can move. It is slow go right now. We have had soooo much rain.
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:39 PM   #327
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Tom and my BIL finally pulled up the shell up enough to get this little beauty out. It is the read hold down plate. I am waiting on parts to be fabricated and some more welding before we can move. It is slow go right now. We have had soooo much rain.
I just replaced mine....I recommend going to aluminum.
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:49 PM   #328
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I just replaced mine....I recommend going to aluminum.
I would worry that wouldn't be strong enough. I wonder about galvalum.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:47 PM   #329
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I would worry that wouldn't be strong enough. I wonder about galvalum.
I've been welding for 42 years,and I will have to google "galvalum". That beingsaid,3" angle aluminum has quite a bit of tensile strength.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:28 AM   #330
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Hard to beat steel for price and ease of fab. If the steel is painted there should be no problems. It is hard to get aluminum thin enough to put the bottom lip under the floor like it was originally. Steel will not crack as easily especially when it is corroded.

You could just use some stainless steel.

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Old 07-15-2013, 09:02 AM   #331
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I've been welding for 42 years,and I will have to google "galvalum". That beingsaid,3" angle aluminum has quite a bit of tensile strength.
Good to know!
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:15 AM   #332
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I routed the lower section of the floor in order to make the floor sit flat on mine
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:18 AM   #333
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I routed the lower section of the floor in order to make the floor sit flat on mine
Kip,
Can you explain that in further detail? Message me if you need to.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:11 AM   #334
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The way airstream originally installed the angle was to just nest it in between the frame and the ply, which caused a bulge in the floor and a gap at the ends of the angle. I extended my new aluminum angle so that it would tie into the existing vertical frames also. What I did was route a relief on the bottom of the ply to a depth equal to the thickness of the angle so that the ply now sits flush over the angle. the relief is .063 deep and around 2" wide. It just makes for a cleaner installation.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:35 AM   #335
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Aerowood do you have a diagram you could share with us or maybe a photo?

I think what you are saying is that you ran the hold down plate straight down and bolted it to the vertical part of the rear cross member? This would elimintate the whole sandwitch problem with the floor being too high in the center because the hold down plate is under it. I had this problem and since there were beds over this area, it did not bother me.

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Old 07-15-2013, 11:43 AM   #336
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The way airstream originally installed the angle was to just nest it in between the frame and the ply, which caused a bulge in the floor and a gap at the ends of the angle. I extended my new aluminum angle so that it would tie into the existing vertical frames also. What I did was route a relief on the bottom of the ply to a depth equal to the thickness of the angle so that the ply now sits flush over the angle. the relief is .063 deep and around 2" wide. It just makes for a cleaner installation.
Excellent explanation. We will try that.
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