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Old 06-17-2013, 09:16 PM   #295
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Add up the thickness of everything the bolt has to go through. 1/2" for the floor, 1/8" for the frame rails,1/4" if you are going to put a nut on it. So min 1" long but you can go longer if you want. If you are replacing all the floor you can go 3/4" thick. I think all the newer trailers used 1/2" plywood or OSB. It was probably done to save money.

Perry
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:36 PM   #296
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***WARNING*** Non expert and not really qualified to be a novice!!! Now that you have been warned I ask you why you have NOT asked your duty expert and hubby about this?? He has what you need and knows how to use it!! All puns aside Perry and Chris are really good and have been there done that but when it comes to what will work best for you call out the local pro! I am sure that you all carry most if not all of the hardware that you will need! I have the self taping floor screws but will not be using them and would not have bought them if I had removed the floor first. for any new metal you have replaced drill the necessary holes (same # as the piece you removed) use the flat headed floor bolts then bend them lock washer loctite or weld them if it makes YOU feel good. ALL of my carrage bolts had to be broke off and they did break easily! I cut the remainder with the sawsall! I will be coating ALL bolts that go through the frame with por 15 or some type of rust coating. Do miss our local hardware store, it was a family owned old time hardware that lost out to lowes. Please remember these are just MY opinions and are worth nothing. I would most likely reccommend that you do follow the real pros like perry and chris they have done what your doing already! I just needed to give advise and my daughter is still in the hospital with the twins!
Cliff
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:38 PM   #297
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And NO she does not follow my advise!!
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:31 PM   #298
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He didn't know and he doesn't sell any of that. HOUSE building is very different. He said to ask on here, so I did. Hope they all come home soon.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:31 AM   #299
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Daughter may get out in the morning but the twins will be a bit longer they are having a tuff time keeping their blood sugar up and she is nurseing them. 5 weeks early may have something to do with it. Airstreams are still new to me (anything within 5 years is new to me) but I have built house and used a ton of carrige bolts. for the rest go to VTS and search "Floor repair bolts" you want the flatheaded ones.
when they were born andrew had low blood sugar and elliot had breathing issues now it is just the blood sugar thing for both. Good luck with the welder! third fourth or fifth time is a charm!! I think
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:25 AM   #300
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Here are some elevator bolts like I used. These you can install from the top unlike most of them you will find. All of mine were installed from the top and I expect yours are the same way. It was a bit of a pain trying to find a bit to drive these but they did work. You might be able to get the phillips heads from Airstream.

McMaster-Carr

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Old 06-18-2013, 07:35 AM   #301
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Some extra thoughts I had on your floor and bolts.

Check the c-channel, and buy the thickest plywood that will fit into it. You may find that you can install 9/16" without any issues. In my opinion, the thicker the floor the better, as it will flex less in between the frame members. If you can install 3/4", use that. I've read where some forum members has take 3/4" plywood and routed the edge thinner to fit inside the c-channel. Of course, some 3/4" plywood isn't really 3/4" of an inch thick, so you may find something labelled 3/4" that will fit just fine. A snug fit inside the c-channel is better than a loose fit.

On the bolts, we used 2 1/2" long simply because that's what Airstream had used on our trailer originally. They stick down below the nut well over an inch, even where the plywood gusset is under the floor seam. A good rule of thumb for bolts is that you want at least 3 threads showing past the nut once you tighten it up. Be sure to use lock washers or lock-tite on the threads, or even both. I liked the idea of bending the bolts over a bit once the nut was tightened up as an extra precaution, and that would be impossible to do if the bolt isn't long enough.

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Old 06-18-2013, 07:36 AM   #302
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Perry and I need to stop typing answers at the same time!
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:32 AM   #303
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Chris I think your trailer has open channel so you can put nuts on the back side. Her trailer has closed box beams for the main frame rails so you are stuck with drilling and tapping at least on the frame rails.

Where did you get your elevator bolts and did they have a phillips head or were they just flat with no way to put a screw driver on them?

Perry
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:17 PM   #304
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Hi Perry,

I bought the elevator bolts at Fastenal. It was the only local place I could find them. They have a flat head without any slot or phillips head. But the square nut thingy (I love technical terms!) under the head grabs the plywood really well so I could tighten them all from underneath quite well.

None of my elevator bolts go into the main frame, just the cross members and outriggers. That's the way it was built originally too. But yes, if the main frame is a box, and you want screws in it, then you would need the floor repair screws or something similar.

Chris
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:57 PM   #305
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Will be going to get the new c channel Thursday will include some pictures he said he will make while I wait. So will be interesting.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:32 PM   #306
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Welder came through. Now we can paint and move on...finally!
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:11 AM   #307
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Yay!! That's great!
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:12 AM   #308
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Send us some pics.

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