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Old 06-15-2013, 09:41 AM   #281
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I would think it's a small project and one not one from a customer who's likely to have repeat business, so it's a low priority job for the welder. Trades people in general are notoriously flaky too and businesses that rely on them tend to latch onto the good ones and keep them busy. Still, it should be possible to find one of the good ones who has some free time to fill with a small job.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:55 AM   #282
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I would think it's a small project and one not one from a customer who's likely to have repeat business, so it's a low priority job for the welder. Trades people in general are notoriously flaky too and businesses that rely on them tend to latch onto the good ones and keep them busy. Still, it should be possible to find one of the good ones who has some free time to fill with a small job.
Thank you. You answered my question. I thought that might be the case.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:57 AM   #283
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I would think it's a small project and one not one from a customer who's likely to have repeat business, so it's a low priority job for the welder. Trades people in general are notoriously flaky too and businesses that rely on them tend to latch onto the good ones and keep them busy. Still, it should be possible to find one of the good ones who has some free time to fill with a small job.
On those jobs, I wish they would charge double, I would pay it and just do the job.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:23 AM   #284
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Having been a free lance carpenter in my youth, something that I remember from those times was that I was always worried about finding work which was going to buy the butter next next and I would pass up good paying short jobs and commit to less well paying jobs that would last for a while. I did though always honor the commitments that I had made.

I wonder if you could find a vocational/industrial arts teacher in the area who might see your project as an interesting but not too difficult project for his students.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:37 AM   #285
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Having been a free lance carpenter in my youth, something that I remember from those times was that I was always worried about finding work which was going to buy the butter next next and I would pass up good paying short jobs and commit to less well paying jobs that would last for a while. I did though always honor the commitments that I had made.

I wonder if you could find a vocational/industrial arts teacher in the area who might see your project as an interesting but not too difficult project for his students.
Yes, we thought about that. My husband is actually on the board at tech school for construction. He put a call into the guy late Friday. I guess we will know something next week. Hopefully one of these leads will work. :-)
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:09 PM   #286
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Great idea about the tech school.

Perry
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:00 PM   #287
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Okay let's see how many outriggers need to be replaced? How many cross members? The 2024 T3 came from aircraft spruce I am getting 3032 .032 for c channel.
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:20 PM   #288
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Met with welder, so we will see if he comes through. Here are pics of drapery that I have been working on. I don't like the hardware I chose, so I will go with something different. It will change the design of the drapery, but that is an easy fix.
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:02 PM   #289
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Okay I am style challenged but looks great! Don't think I need a disclaimer.
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:24 PM   #290
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Gathering subfloor tools I need

Ok, in hopes that the welder does what he says he does, I will need to put down the new subfloor on that side quickly so I can pull up the other side. Are these the right bolts etc. that I need:

1. Elevator bolts 1/2" 20x2" zinc finish


2. #12 x 2 3/4". Wood to metal self tapping screws, zinc finish (wafer head)


3. Carriage bolts 5/16" diameter 18x 2 1/2" hot dipped galvanized finish and large galvanized washers




I haven't actually talked anyone. I just read about this.


Any thoughts? Where to order? How much do I need?
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:30 PM   #291
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You can get everything from McMaster.com. They have elevator bolts with a slotted head. They are zinc plated and you need something longer than 1/2". You probably need at least 1" long elevator bolts. It would be nice to be able to get the Phillips head elevator bolts like Airstream uses. You are going to need a few 1/4-20 taps and tap drills to tap the frame for these. On the older trailers you could put a nut on the backside but the newer ones with the box beams that is impossible. You are probably going to need some 5/16"-18 drills and taps for things like the jacks. The bolts on the jacks always break.

I would get stainless steel sheet metal screws and anything else you can find in stainless steel. A lot of this you can get at Lowe's or HD but you are going to pay an arm and a leg. Most towns have a bolt supply store where you can get stuff. I assume the carriage bolts are for the outriggers. You can use whatever head style you want for these in 5/16".

Perry
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:45 PM   #292
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We used 1/4" x 2 1/2" elevator bolts from Fastenal, but other places carry them as well. I used lock washers on the underside of the frame and then bent the ends of the bolts over slightly to ensure the nuts did not work loose.

Vintage Trailer Supply carries both elevator bolts and floor repair screws. Others have successfully used the floor repair screws, but I think the elevator bolts are a better option if you have access to under the frame to tighten the nuts.

Carriage bolts have a smaller and rounder head to them, and are not as good a choice for mounting plywood to the frame. The smaller head would have a higher tendency to pull though the plywood, and this pull through potential would be increased since you would need to drill a deeper recess to get the head completely beneath the top of the plywood so you have a level floor.

For each main cross member between the main frames, you’ll use 5 or 6 bolts. For each outrigger, you’ll use 2 or 3 more. So, probably 100 or more. If memory serves, I ordered 100 and then ended up needing more.

Chris
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:10 PM   #293
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My plywood is only 1/2", not the 3/4" like most floors. The reason is that is what was there originally. After much reading, there for a few years in the 70s, they used 1/2". Does that make a difference in the size or length of the bolts or screws I use???
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:16 PM   #294
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No, not really. Longer is better than too short because the extra length will be under the frame anyway.

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