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Old 05-02-2013, 06:51 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
That floor does not look rotten to me. It look like there is some water damage but the two photos you posted don't concern me that much. If you can't stick a screw drive all the way through it, then it is probably usable. The main area of concern is at the back which you probably can't see till you remove the bathroom.

Perry
I went around with an ice pick and several places it goes right in. In other places it is fine. However, the whole floor in general is not level. It is higher in the middle. Thanks for your advice. I really need all the help I can get. :-)
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:35 AM   #16
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My biggest advice at this point, based on our refurb, is to take lots of pictures as you take things apart. It's really frustrating months down the road, when you're trying to reinstall something and can't remember how it goes. We're doing all new, and still refer to pictures we took at the beginning. I am doing a scrapbook (on book 2 now) with pictures and descriptions. It's amazing to look back and see where we started, and where we are now. Not to mention, referencing those pictures on "how did that look originally?". It's my winter project every year. Keep that camera handy!

Kay
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:13 PM   #17
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I can offer you nothing but support, i would come hold tools for you if I could. i love your story, I love the support of the others. I admire you taking on this very special project. I will be following on this exciting and fulfilling journey, you are teaching your children too...good for all of you.
Support is a HUGE part of it! Thank you soooo much for such encouraging words!
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:15 PM   #18
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Hey, who knows, maybe your husband will catch aluminitis from you and get out there and pitch in. I agree with Sbb about the example you are giving to your children. They will see that no matter how daunting a project is, if you just take it a step at a time you'll get to the end. Real life leasons here for them to see.
I wish he would! It would make this a lot easier and a lot more fun. Thanks for the encouragement! I haven't thought of it that way!
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:45 PM   #19
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Well after reading this thread we may have more in common than I thought. My husband is also very hands off and definitely hasn't caught aluminitis. Oh well if we can bear and raise children we can damn sure fix a trailer! No worries you are headed in the right direction. If you start feeling overwhelmed break it down into small tasks that are more easily accomplished. For instance instead of trying to reseal the whole trailer decide that today you will reseal the rear lights or that really leaky window. If you are struggling with motivation take a break and do something frivolous, like polishing the logo or picking fabrics. You don't need them right now but the feeling of having accomplished something will keep you going. Good Luck!
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:11 PM   #20
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Well after reading this thread we may have more in common than I thought. My husband is also very hands off and definitely hasn't caught aluminitis. Oh well if we can bear and raise children we can damn sure fix a trailer! No worries you are headed in the right direction. If you start feeling overwhelmed break it down into small tasks that are more easily accomplished. For instance instead of trying to reseal the whole trailer decide that today you will reseal the rear lights or that really leaky window. If you are struggling with motivation take a break and do something frivolous, like polishing the logo or picking fabrics. You don't need them right now but the feeling of having accomplished something will keep you going. Good Luck!
That is great to know and encouraging! I agree we can fix a trailer! I agree with breaking things up. I have taken that exact approach and ordered fabrics to start sewing curtains when I need breaks from the tough stuff. My next "frivolous" task is fixing the window screens. Then, it's back to the big stuff. Gotta give these blisters time to heal. Send me a message if you come to Moultrie in November. Good to meet you! :-)
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:08 AM   #21
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If the floor is not level now it won't be with the new floor. Usually on a long trailer the area over the axels will be a little higher than the rest of the trailer. If the rear end is sagging from rear end separation then this will be even worse. Best way to tell if the rear end is separated is to jump on the bumper and see if the bumper moves up and down separate from the shell. If the bumper moves more than the shell then you have a problem. These things are not perfectly level and flat like the floor in a house. They are made light so you can tow it. You will also notice areas between the cross members that sag a little and bounce when you step in that area. This is normal. I expect you will find areas in the corners that are soft/rotten. If this area is only a few square inches then that can be patched. Sometimes you can just fill the soft areas with epoxie or even caulk if it is just a layer of plywood or two.

Perry

Quote:
Originally Posted by GAStreamin View Post
I went around with an ice pick and several places it goes right in. In other places it is fine. However, the whole floor in general is not level. It is higher in the middle. Thanks for your advice. I really need all the help I can get. :-)
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
If the floor is not level now it won't be with the new floor. Usually on a long trailer the area over the axels will be a little higher than the rest of the trailer. If the rear end is sagging from rear end separation then this will be even worse. Best way to tell if the rear end is separated is to jump on the bumper and see if the bumper moves up and down separate from the shell. If the bumper moves more than the shell then you have a problem. These things are not perfectly level and flat like the floor in a house. They are made light so you can tow it. You will also notice areas between the cross members that sag a little and bounce when you step in that area. This is normal. I expect you will find areas in the corners that are soft/rotten. If this area is only a few square inches then that can be patched. Sometimes you can just fill the soft areas with epoxie or even caulk if it is just a layer of plywood or two.

Perry
I definitely have rear sag. I really appreciate someone explaining what is normal and what is not. I wish you could see it in person, so I could know for sure whether to patch areas or replace the whole thing. I do know the front 2 sections have to be replaced and the back and then I think why not do the whole thing so it is all nice and new for the next 35 years. It is 35 yo and it is torn apart now and once I get everything back in and new cabinets, I am not going to want to do this again for a long time. Here is a not so good pic of rear sag.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #23
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That is just a sheet metal cover for the bottom of the trailer. Those are the first to go. Go ahead and pull that off and pull all the old insulation out and then take some photos from under the trailer facing towards the rear bumper. You can drill out the rivets with a drill bit.

Perry
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:15 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
That is just a sheet metal cover for the bottom of the trailer. Those are the first to go. Go ahead and pull that off and pull all the old insulation out and then take some photos from under the trailer facing towards the rear bumper. You can drill out the rivets with a drill bit.

Perry
Ok, if the rain slacks up, I will do that today. Will my 1/8" drill work for the outside rivets or do I need a different bit for those rivets?
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:35 PM   #25
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I would only drill the rivets that are in the bottom. They will have a large head on them and you will find many that have corroded through the thin sheet metal. You might be better off just cutting the center section out and drill where you have to. You can start with the 1/8" drill bit but I think those rivets are 5/32" or 3/16" diameter. There are side wraps (curved pieces) that you want to preserve if you can because they require a bit more skill to replace than the flat sections. Unfortunately, the side wraps are riveted over the bottom skins. To fully remove the side wraps you will have drill out the rivets in the rub rail and drill out rivets under that. I am pretty sure these are 1/8" pop rivets. Don't drill any buck rivets (solid domed head).

Drill bit sizes, #30, #21 and #11.

Those are for 1/8", 5/32" and 3/16" rivets.

These numbered drill bits are slightly larger than the rivet so you get all of it out. If you drill through the center of the rivet you should be able to use that hole over again. If you have problem rivets you can cut the head off them with a sharp wood chisel.


Perry
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:20 PM   #26
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Thank you so much on drill specifics. That will help so much with the whole project. I didn't get far with the back. It was really hard! I got the bumper off and took some pics, but I could not for the life of me get the other part off. Everything is bolted to something else. I couldn't even get to some of the bolts. I may have to bring in help from somewhere for that part. Here are some more pics. They are not great because camera was did have SIM card and phone doesn't do as well. Also, it is a dark cold rainy day here is South Georgia. Who would ever think that for the beginning of May!
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:49 PM   #27
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Looks like you are going to be busy for a while. The main cross member is shot and that holds the rear up. Frame maybe ok, hard tell. Better gut the interior to get bathroom out. Take lots of photos.

Once bathroom out replace floor.

Perry
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:27 PM   #28
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Looks like you are going to be busy for a while. The main cross member is shot and that holds the rear up. Frame maybe ok, hard tell. Better gut the interior to get bathroom out. Take lots of photos.

Once bathroom out replace floor.

Perry
I cannot tell you how helpful it is to get your expertise. I don't know what I am looking at half the time. I am still a little nervous, but determined. I will take out bathroom tomorrow and try to finish taking down interior walls. I have someone coming to make sure gas lines are disconnected, so I can drop the bellypan. I can't get to see the frame until I do that unless I go ahead and cut the subfloor out and I assume I do that with a circular saw, but I wouldn't want mess up the pattern for the subfloor. Am I correct? Am I going in the right direction? If I ever go to Alabama, I got to bake you a pound cake and take it to you. :-)
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