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Old 06-15-2013, 08:41 AM   #281
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I would think it's a small project and one not one from a customer who's likely to have repeat business, so it's a low priority job for the welder. Trades people in general are notoriously flaky too and businesses that rely on them tend to latch onto the good ones and keep them busy. Still, it should be possible to find one of the good ones who has some free time to fill with a small job.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:55 AM   #282
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Quote:
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I would think it's a small project and one not one from a customer who's likely to have repeat business, so it's a low priority job for the welder. Trades people in general are notoriously flaky too and businesses that rely on them tend to latch onto the good ones and keep them busy. Still, it should be possible to find one of the good ones who has some free time to fill with a small job.
Thank you. You answered my question. I thought that might be the case.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:57 AM   #283
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I would think it's a small project and one not one from a customer who's likely to have repeat business, so it's a low priority job for the welder. Trades people in general are notoriously flaky too and businesses that rely on them tend to latch onto the good ones and keep them busy. Still, it should be possible to find one of the good ones who has some free time to fill with a small job.
On those jobs, I wish they would charge double, I would pay it and just do the job.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:23 AM   #284
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Having been a free lance carpenter in my youth, something that I remember from those times was that I was always worried about finding work which was going to buy the butter next next and I would pass up good paying short jobs and commit to less well paying jobs that would last for a while. I did though always honor the commitments that I had made.

I wonder if you could find a vocational/industrial arts teacher in the area who might see your project as an interesting but not too difficult project for his students.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:37 AM   #285
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Having been a free lance carpenter in my youth, something that I remember from those times was that I was always worried about finding work which was going to buy the butter next next and I would pass up good paying short jobs and commit to less well paying jobs that would last for a while. I did though always honor the commitments that I had made.

I wonder if you could find a vocational/industrial arts teacher in the area who might see your project as an interesting but not too difficult project for his students.
Yes, we thought about that. My husband is actually on the board at tech school for construction. He put a call into the guy late Friday. I guess we will know something next week. Hopefully one of these leads will work. :-)
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:09 PM   #286
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Great idea about the tech school.

Perry
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:00 AM   #287
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Okay let's see how many outriggers need to be replaced? How many cross members? The 2024 T3 came from aircraft spruce I am getting 3032 .032 for c channel.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:20 PM   #288
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Met with welder, so we will see if he comes through. Here are pics of drapery that I have been working on. I don't like the hardware I chose, so I will go with something different. It will change the design of the drapery, but that is an easy fix.
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:02 PM   #289
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Okay I am style challenged but looks great! Don't think I need a disclaimer.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:24 PM   #290
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Gathering subfloor tools I need

Ok, in hopes that the welder does what he says he does, I will need to put down the new subfloor on that side quickly so I can pull up the other side. Are these the right bolts etc. that I need:

1. Elevator bolts 1/2" 20x2" zinc finish


2. #12 x 2 3/4". Wood to metal self tapping screws, zinc finish (wafer head)


3. Carriage bolts 5/16" diameter 18x 2 1/2" hot dipped galvanized finish and large galvanized washers




I haven't actually talked anyone. I just read about this.


Any thoughts? Where to order? How much do I need?
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:30 PM   #291
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You can get everything from McMaster.com. They have elevator bolts with a slotted head. They are zinc plated and you need something longer than 1/2". You probably need at least 1" long elevator bolts. It would be nice to be able to get the Phillips head elevator bolts like Airstream uses. You are going to need a few 1/4-20 taps and tap drills to tap the frame for these. On the older trailers you could put a nut on the backside but the newer ones with the box beams that is impossible. You are probably going to need some 5/16"-18 drills and taps for things like the jacks. The bolts on the jacks always break.

I would get stainless steel sheet metal screws and anything else you can find in stainless steel. A lot of this you can get at Lowe's or HD but you are going to pay an arm and a leg. Most towns have a bolt supply store where you can get stuff. I assume the carriage bolts are for the outriggers. You can use whatever head style you want for these in 5/16".

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Old 06-17-2013, 07:45 PM   #292
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We used 1/4" x 2 1/2" elevator bolts from Fastenal, but other places carry them as well. I used lock washers on the underside of the frame and then bent the ends of the bolts over slightly to ensure the nuts did not work loose.

Vintage Trailer Supply carries both elevator bolts and floor repair screws. Others have successfully used the floor repair screws, but I think the elevator bolts are a better option if you have access to under the frame to tighten the nuts.

Carriage bolts have a smaller and rounder head to them, and are not as good a choice for mounting plywood to the frame. The smaller head would have a higher tendency to pull though the plywood, and this pull through potential would be increased since you would need to drill a deeper recess to get the head completely beneath the top of the plywood so you have a level floor.

For each main cross member between the main frames, you’ll use 5 or 6 bolts. For each outrigger, you’ll use 2 or 3 more. So, probably 100 or more. If memory serves, I ordered 100 and then ended up needing more.

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Old 06-17-2013, 08:10 PM   #293
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My plywood is only 1/2", not the 3/4" like most floors. The reason is that is what was there originally. After much reading, there for a few years in the 70s, they used 1/2". Does that make a difference in the size or length of the bolts or screws I use???
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:16 PM   #294
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No, not really. Longer is better than too short because the extra length will be under the frame anyway.

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Old 06-17-2013, 08:16 PM   #295
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Add up the thickness of everything the bolt has to go through. 1/2" for the floor, 1/8" for the frame rails,1/4" if you are going to put a nut on it. So min 1" long but you can go longer if you want. If you are replacing all the floor you can go 3/4" thick. I think all the newer trailers used 1/2" plywood or OSB. It was probably done to save money.

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Old 06-17-2013, 09:36 PM   #296
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***WARNING*** Non expert and not really qualified to be a novice!!! Now that you have been warned I ask you why you have NOT asked your duty expert and hubby about this?? He has what you need and knows how to use it!! All puns aside Perry and Chris are really good and have been there done that but when it comes to what will work best for you call out the local pro! I am sure that you all carry most if not all of the hardware that you will need! I have the self taping floor screws but will not be using them and would not have bought them if I had removed the floor first. for any new metal you have replaced drill the necessary holes (same # as the piece you removed) use the flat headed floor bolts then bend them lock washer loctite or weld them if it makes YOU feel good. ALL of my carrage bolts had to be broke off and they did break easily! I cut the remainder with the sawsall! I will be coating ALL bolts that go through the frame with por 15 or some type of rust coating. Do miss our local hardware store, it was a family owned old time hardware that lost out to lowes. Please remember these are just MY opinions and are worth nothing. I would most likely reccommend that you do follow the real pros like perry and chris they have done what your doing already! I just needed to give advise and my daughter is still in the hospital with the twins!
Cliff
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:38 PM   #297
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And NO she does not follow my advise!!
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:31 PM   #298
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He didn't know and he doesn't sell any of that. HOUSE building is very different. He said to ask on here, so I did. Hope they all come home soon.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:31 AM   #299
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Daughter may get out in the morning but the twins will be a bit longer they are having a tuff time keeping their blood sugar up and she is nurseing them. 5 weeks early may have something to do with it. Airstreams are still new to me (anything within 5 years is new to me) but I have built house and used a ton of carrige bolts. for the rest go to VTS and search "Floor repair bolts" you want the flatheaded ones.
when they were born andrew had low blood sugar and elliot had breathing issues now it is just the blood sugar thing for both. Good luck with the welder! third fourth or fifth time is a charm!! I think
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:25 AM   #300
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Here are some elevator bolts like I used. These you can install from the top unlike most of them you will find. All of mine were installed from the top and I expect yours are the same way. It was a bit of a pain trying to find a bit to drive these but they did work. You might be able to get the phillips heads from Airstream.

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