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Old 03-01-2012, 03:21 PM   #29
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I have used two sheets of waxed paper sandwiched between two 2x8’s to move some pretty big stuff. A long time ago I saw it used to get two mobile home halve together.
I am not saying it is right for this application but…

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Old 03-01-2012, 03:22 PM   #30
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We only have construction heaters in there but it is nice. I work outside and the winter is just something you get used to. Being indoors makes everything better. The hard floor is awesome, I usually work on dirt, in mud and off a ladder. Tim and I count ourselves lucky to have found this building. Its about 1/2 hour drive for both of us and we get the whole building.Last year we shared a different building with others and we never felt comfortable leaving anything out.

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Old 03-01-2012, 03:29 PM   #31

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Just got back from the pad looking at Cloudsplitter, it dawned all over me....

Using four jack dollies, you still have the tongue jack to deal with...even with a jack wheel strong enough it wouldn't be easy.

At least it looks like you have a nice smooth floor.

Anyone got a HD ATV? Hitch, tongue wheel and patience might work.



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Old 03-01-2012, 03:34 PM   #32
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Here's a thought if you only need to move the big girl once or twice why not contact a local repo outfit and see if they would rent you their equipment.
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:40 PM   #33
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Not sure if this has been suggested yet but what's the biggest set of teflon furniture slides you can book shelves at Barnes and Noble moved with them probably a ton of books can be slid around by one guy... but that was on carpet
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:53 PM   #34
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Im really trying to talk Tim into a shorter trailer, Even a 30' trailer would allow us to park two trailers end to end and two side by side. We only have about one month of storage season and then the Big Girl will come out and go to the Minnesota Airstream Park. Then my 22' trailer can go indoors and there will still be plenty of room. If we can come up with a plan that we know will work I can let go of my outside storage spot next winter.
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:33 PM   #35
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I store my coach in a big building - sort of like yours - but it also contains dozens of cars, boats, trucks, pieces of industrial machinery, etc. The owner regularly moves these things sideways to pack them in for more storage. He uses go-jack type units, and pushes on the vehicle wheels / tires if it's a vehicle. It takes just a little extra oomph to get the little wheels all aligned, but soon as they are, it starts moving. I bet you can do it with what you've got, if you take it slow and easy and pre-figure how to stop it once you've got it going. Moreover, with the castering wheels, you can line them up in the direction of travel BEFORE you jack it up and apply load, so they're already aligned ... 'course, you will need another dolly or some such for teh tongue jack. Good luck.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:01 PM   #36
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I like the idea of dollies under each wheel and tongue jack. With a floor mounted winch on the wall side and a place to mount a pully in/on the floor on the other side. You could pull it both ways.

I bet a short length of garden hose or electric cord will stop the dolly from rolling. ( It sure does prevent snowmobile dolly wheels from moving!)

How about some scale models and space? (Could be as simple as a sheet of graph paper cut to size) Mybe there is a different "load order" to make it work without pushing it sideways.
Have a great day!

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Old 03-01-2012, 06:50 PM   #37
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If all you want to do is move sideways, why not build dollys with non castering wheels. Though given the weight involved I think wheels large enough to have bearings would be advised. Good luck.....Phil.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:22 PM   #38
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Remove one or two wheel pairs and then grease plates under the remaining tires --- place the A-frame over first and lock/remove the jack-wheel to anchor it, then you might be able to pivot the back over by push - pull on the bumper - -

Grease plates are used often in aircraft hangers, use the length of the frame as leverage as you would the wings - tail of an airplane. You really wanted four four-foot long by 12" sheets of greasy 1/4" (3/8"?) steel or aluminum to store, didn't you?

Either that or two 14-foot 2x8's (picked for hard grain) and twelve feet of 1-1/2 or 2" galvanized pipe cut into 8 or 10" pieces, remove all but one set of wheels, drop the remaining tires on the rollers and tug it over via the bumper.

I've re-railed 40-ton subway cars and we used a 12-inch wide aluminum beam-plank with two sets of four 2" rollers mounted together in a 12"x12" pad - the plank cribbed up level with oak blocks, drop car frame on rollers and use a hydraulic ram to walk the roller pads over twelve inches at a time.

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Old 03-01-2012, 08:38 PM   #39
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got a fork lift?

can you make a sling and lift it from above?

make an ice rink and slide it on the ice :-)
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:34 PM   #40
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With a couple of 2x12's place them perpendicular to the trailer under the tires. The get 10 sticks (pieces) of 1 1/2" to 2" thin wall conduit. Relatively cheap to buy. Cut the conduit in half making 20 rollers. Place the rollers under the 2 x12's . Put a floor jack under the tongue jack. Don't raise the floor jack, just use it like a dolly.
As you move the trailer side ways carry the rollers that come out the side you are pushing from around to the opposite side.
The Egyptian's used this method to build the pyramids.
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:48 AM   #41
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Grease plates, or skid plates as we used to call them will do the job for you. We would slide 20,000 lbs. aircraft around no problem. Won't be expensive and you can put them aside for later when done. Only down side is it can get a little messy.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:30 AM   #42
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pvc rollers and ply/2x

I have moved a 30kw industrial generator powered by a 6 cyl engine in a metallic enclosure-the whole kaboodle was on skids of course. I used 3 inch DWV type pipe and a couple of smaller pieces. the only problem is HOW EASILY it moves! one guy could shove 8000lbs easily! I have moved my 30 foot trailer on a nose wheel and its tires by myself just by pushing on the tongue! on a flat concrete (not smooth) surface, so a couple of pieces of pvc (sched 80 electric will hold an unbelieveable weight) with the trailer on 2x mounted on plywood. and the whole shebang will roll easily. attach the 2x on the ply; place the ply on the floor; back trailer onto ply/2x. jack up wall side of trailer and insert roller underneath; place second roller next to wall edge of ply; go to opposite side, jack up trailer (watch out, it will roll) and place 3rd roller; place it as far under as you can get it. then it will roll easily. keeping a roller ahead of where the trailer is going will continue to support the weight easily. with some thinking, you may be able to back the trailer right onto the roller platform with NO jacking, but care needs to be exercised. I guarantee it will roll so easy you will be shocked.

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