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Old 03-01-2012, 07:18 AM   #15
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Brad the difference between the go-jacks and the other type of jacks suggested here is that the go-jacks do not require you to jack up the vehicle(trailer) first to place the dolleys under the wheels. That's why repo guys use them, they are fast and easy.
These jacks look interesting. In many cases fast and easy would be great. For our move, its Tims trailer not mine, we can take all day to move it if that is what is needed. Using a cart under each tire will involve 24 casters total. Trying to get all thoes casters pointed in the same direction for the move seems like herding cats. Part of my quest is to help Tim, the trailer owner, feel comfortable with what is happening. Ive used tip jacking to move heavy objects before but I dont think Tim will be comfortable with that method. We all know how precious our trailers are to ourselves so I need to come up with an economical gentle effective method of moving the trailer. My reward is that I will be able to get one more of my precious trailers into the building.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:34 AM   #16
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Any possibility of getting a smaller one in that spot? I.e., does it HAVE to be the 34'? It's not that hard to tow the 34' out of the way if you have to move the one in the pocket.

If the casters are really the issue, try using fewer dollies, if they can support the weight - leave one wheel on each side hanging. I wouldn't do this for long. The casters are part of the problem, sure, but the other part is that you're trying to move at least 7,000 lbs of trailer and it's not going to go easy no matter what you do.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:38 AM   #17
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Brad,

I emphasize again how important a smooth rolling surface is, our parking pad has seams that are 1-2" high/low that can stop me in my tracks when moving the boat, (less than 2500lbs), I'm able to work thru it only because it's so light.
The casters do work very well and I'm able to handle the move without help... unless I roll onto the grass.

Bob
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:28 PM   #18
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I'm sure all you experts will be hiding grins as I ask this in my ignorance, but we also have a 34' and a building and may need to know all the answers here and to this question: once you have figured out 1) how to move, 2) how to stop, then 3) what do you safely push against to avoid damaging the 34'? Seems like it will take some force to get the thing in motion, so how do you avoid damaging panels in the pushing? Pushing on the ribs, considering the weight and inertia, seems like it might damage the ribs?

Thanks!

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Old 03-01-2012, 12:33 PM   #19
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Just build another door.
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:08 PM   #20
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"Seems like it will take some force to get the thing in motion, so how do you avoid damaging panels in the pushing? Pushing on the ribs, considering the weight and inertia, seems like it might damage the ribs?"

Iv'e found when moving our Ford it's easiest to push directly on the wheels.
Have also used a come-a-long to move the front end over when in the garage.

Bob
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:10 PM   #21
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Can the entrance be widened? jim
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:23 PM   #22
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Wow Thank you for the ideas. Tim and I have tried wheel dollies to move it but we couldnt get it to go. We put a dolly under each wheel, three per side, and gave it a try. Im thinking that 12 casters per side were to many. each wheel seemed to point in its own direction and they seemed to resist each other.

I am considering laying out several 10' pieces of 4" pvc as rollers, putting a plywood platform on top of this and pulling the trailer onto the platform. Any thoughts about this idea? We are on a concrete floor, although its about 80 years old so its not smooth as glass.
If it won't roll smoothly you may have to use dollies with larger diameter casters. You may also find that it helps to leave the trailer hitched to the tow vehicle at first and move it forward or back a foot or so once the dollies are in place, so that the casters all point in the same direction. Then they will fight each other less when you push it to the wall. Also if you leave the tow vehicle hooked up you can push on the trailer's bumper and get a little leverage.

I don't know whether the PVC pipe will take the weight. You may find that it and the plywood deform enough to preclude rolling.

Whatever you do be careful and be sure you have a means of stopping at any point in the process, and be aware of any slope the concrete may have.
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:36 PM   #23
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It may help, and I have seen this done on some unlevel concrete before, to put the wheel dollies in a track perpendicular to the axis of the trailer in the direction of the move. This helps "level" the floor, points the wheels in the correct direction and keeps them there and provides a smooth surface with a lower coefficient of friction to help with the move. Some C channel just wider than the wheel width of the wheel dollies.
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:21 PM   #24
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I found this video of go-jacks in use:
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:22 PM   #25
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Just build another door.
my thought eggs-act-lee!

Or move the SMALL ones and put the big honken 34 in LAST.

But still, I with over 7 years on this forum still learned something new from this thread. My first thought was - sideways? They gotta be kidding! But lo and behold in theory it's certainly possible. I'd use opposing "come-alongs" to nudge the airstream into STARTing, then to slow and stop it as it reaches it's safe destination. Video "the big movement" for You-Tube, it'll be viral whether it succeeds brilliantly or fails ignominiously!

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Old 03-01-2012, 03:44 PM   #26
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Just make sure the door is wide enough


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Old 03-01-2012, 03:51 PM   #27
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I really like build another door option. It is a rented building , if it was mine I would do it.

I think putting the casters in a track is an interesting idea. I moved a house with a friend long ago and as I recall all the rollers were between steel beams. All surfaces were smooth and hard.The moving company was able to put the house right where we wanted +/- 1/4".

Here is a pic of the shop we are working in. The "Big Girl" on the left should go 5 more feet to the left or better yet it should go all the way to the right and clear the isle that the door lines up with. The trailer in the right foreground is my 57 Rear door Ohio built Overlander and the one in the back round is May, Tims 1964 Safari. I have a 22' CCD that Id like to bring in for the winters.Im greatful for all the ideas, thank you. This forum rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:07 PM   #28
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Brad

Looks like you have enough clearance to work it into whichever spot you want with one of those power hitch dollies. In essence they're a tow vehicle that's only 2' long and can turn on a dime.

Might be easier and cheaper than dollying the wheels.

Nice shop. My place has more room but a dirt floor and no heat.
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