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Old 11-04-2011, 10:22 AM   #15
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I've always been able to get my trailer level on the first try using a method developed by Nick Crowhurst. This technique only works with screw mounted levels. Doesn't work with doulble stickyback tape.

1. Back into your site until the trailer is close enough for your power cord to reach the docking station. If a pull through site you are spending too much per night and should buy a motorhome.

2. Get out of your truck. Don't forget your beer.

3. Borrow your spouse/traveling partner's Leatherman Tool. Loosen the mounting screws on the Level Master.

4. Adjust the Level Master until the little steel ball is in the center of the tube. Tighten screws.

5. Yell "OK, she's level!". Reward yourself with another beer.
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:25 AM   #16
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hey! we could fill my tube idea with beer...

Or Jack Daniels, for that matter.
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
I've always been able to get my trailer level on the first try using a method developed by Nick Crowhurst. This technique only works with screw mounted levels. Doesn't work with doulble stickyback tape.

1. Back into your site until the trailer is close enough for your power cord to reach the docking station. If a pull through site you are spending too much per night and should buy a motorhome.

2. Get out of your truck. Don't forget your beer.

3. Borrow your spouse/traveling partner's Leatherman Tool. Loosen the mounting screws on the Level Master.

4. Adjust the Level Master until the little steel ball is in the center of the tube. Tighten screws.

5. Yell "OK, she's level!". Reward yourself with another beer.


I wish I'd thought of that :~)
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:40 AM   #18
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We can simplify that by hanging the stock level from a single screw in the middle...
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:56 AM   #19
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Here it is. I didn't have 1/2" tubing in "inventory", but did have 3/8", and had everything else, so that's what I used. The liquid is vinegar, water, and a little food coloring (vinegar to help prevent mold). I also stuffed some foam ear plugs in the ends to help prevent foreign mater from entering, but yet allow air transfer. Now I need to see if I can actually see it from the truck.
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:02 AM   #20
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Well, heck, I can help ya there. I've been accused of being a McGyver accolyte, BUT if you wanted quick and simple, a ten foot length of clear tubing from the hardware store, almost filled with water and hung in a big U shape across the front of the trailer, would do it. The levels of water in each half of the U shape's upright portions will be absolutely level. The long baseline between the tubes means the equivalent of a really big level, i.e. dead on accurate. You'd just have to relate that to a horizontal reference on the trailer. Window edge, line of rivets, whatever. Could do this in thirty seconds. Materials: One ten foot length of tubing, two pieces of duct tape, a half cup of water. Total cost: $ 3. (ten ft. at .30 per foot). It wouldn't matter where you stuck it, come to think of it. The water will always be level. could drape it between two of the cheapo little suction cups. Can see it from any of the mirrors on the T.V. Need more contrast for the liquid? Use a can of Coke.

And the tubing is useful for other stuff, like stealing gas. Uh....I mean siphoning, of course.

This is exactly how, during construction, I leveled the wings on my experimental aircraft (the tube was attached to each wingtip).
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:06 AM   #21
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Yeah? What did you build? I was EAA for years, but got into ultralights. And a private ticket. Recently been interested in some of Zenair's STOLs.

Whoops. Sorry. severe topic drift.

Steve, that looks great. Do you need to put a horizontal reference on the window itself? Or does that line up with the window edge in the mirror?
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:13 AM   #22
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The level on our Excella is located beneath the front window, toward the street side where I can see it in the rear view mirror. Really nice to see it in the mirror as I back into a space, or onto (what I hope) is the correct spacer under a wheel or two. Saves trips out and back in the truck.

As far as adjustment, I put my favorite pan on the stove with a small level in it, then leveled the trailer in my driveway using the tongue jack and a hydraulic floor jack between the wheels. I then adjusted the level on the front of the trailer.

Unless there is something seriously wrong with your trailer, that should make the floor and the refer as level as they need to be, and when frying an egg, it will stay in the middle of the pan.

I hate to try to cook on a stove that is not level.
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:24 AM   #23
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Steve, that looks great. Do you need to put a horizontal reference on the window itself? Or does that line up with the window edge in the mirror?
Gringo, I think the aluminum molding line on the rock guard is level enough. I'll give this a try, and if I still can't see it well enough, I'll change to 1/2" tubing. Thanks again.
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:24 AM   #24
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Yeah? What did you build? I was EAA for years, but got into ultralights. And a private ticket. Recently been interested in some of Zenair's STOLs.
Q-200; still working on that last 10% that takes 90% of the time.
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:31 PM   #25
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Here it is. I didn't have 1/2" tubing in "inventory", but did have 3/8", and had everything else, so that's what I used. The liquid is vinegar, water, and a little food coloring (vinegar to help prevent mold). I also stuffed some foam ear plugs in the ends to help prevent foreign mater from entering, but yet allow air transfer. Now I need to see if I can actually see it from the truck.

did you get a chance to try it out yet?
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:51 PM   #26
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after a long drive, try this:

a. park your AS
b. find a flat surface on your AS - battery cover, frame, etc.
c. place empty beer glass on this flat surface
d. fill glass to the brim - duh, with beer!.
e. if the beer spills over the lip of the glass - that is the low side
and the AS needs to be adjusted
f. drain beer [guess where] from glass and repeat steps c-e until the
beer no longer spills over the lip or until you no longer give a damn

- no fair intentionally looking for non-level spots!
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Old 11-05-2011, 06:55 PM   #27
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did you get a chance to try it out yet?
Not yet...been to a sailing regata all day. Maybe this week sometime.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:08 PM   #28
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I just took delivery of a 2005 Classic and the trailer leveling indicator was never mounted on the trailer . Before I drill holes in the sidewall could someone send a picture of where they mounted theirs ?
It would be very helpful.
Thanks
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For installing things where you don't want to put holes in skin or plastic, I have had excellent results with the 3M double sided RED mounting tape. It is much much stronger than the foam tape, and is rated indoor/outdoor. It can be removed, but that is not easy, although I have had no damage in removal.

I have used it on my Jeep Grand Cherokee to mount the brake controller on the plastic underdash, where I did not want to leave holes. I put it on my 98, removed it and put it on the '01 and last month moved it again to the '12. Each time I was left with a nice original plastic underdash, and the controller was more flush with the surface than if I had used the metal mounting brackets. I just put the tape on the back of the controller, and stuck it to the dash. It was very solid.

I am sure it would work with the level which is the subject of this thread. Just be sure to get the 3M brand RED heavy duty mounting tape. ACE and other hardware stores carry it, I think wally world too.

Hi, I mounted my level dead center and just below my belt moulding. I refused to drill holes for something like this. I used the 3M brand gray mounting tape, the one with the red plastic wrapped around it. I also turned the center adjusting screw up-side-down so it can be easily adjusted.
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