Locked inside my Airstream at Walmart

[KK4YZ]

Originally Posted by RFP

Here you go... As the Boy Scouts say, "Be Prepared"

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...od-150277.html

Thanks for this. This is on my Spring “to do” list.

Happy New Year

[sheriff1]

Originally Posted by centennialman

Can you post the link to the member post who installed the extra handle?

That would be me.

[Silver.Sanctuary]

Originally Posted by stoneager

Sorry to hear this. We had something similar happen to us with out 2018 16RB. We were locked inside at Garner State Park. Like you, my tools were outside, however, I did have a leatherman tool inside the camper. The problem for us was that the screen door frame blocked a couple of the screws to the door latch mechanism. I was only able to take out one screw. After about 30 minutes with the leatherman and a flashlight I was able to figure out how to release the latch mechanism after prying only one side of the mechanism open by about a half inch.



Of course this was a minor problem compared to the leaky door on a brand new Airstream that took months to fix. We think. Maybe. But that's another story.

I heared of an Airstreamer who then drilled two holes in the screen door frame to be able to get to the necessary machine screws.

[Dennawayne]

Originally Posted by Silver.Sanctuary

I heared of an Airstreamer who then drilled two holes in the screen door frame to be able to get to the necessary machine screws.

I got tripped up on posting the pictures for the machine screw fix so they are in there but not with my post. They appear as a series of photos starting with a picture aDeWalt package with a drill and a tap for 22 threads per inch. Use that to tap the aluminum entry handle. The other photos are self explanatory. Good luck if you choose to do it. Sorry to here about the door.

[gator.bigfoot]

The same thing happened twice now. I just pulled the screen spline out a bit reached out of the window and opened the door. Not a big deal. A couple of minutes to take the door handle apart and reassemble it. And another couple to push the screen spline back into place. Overall it takes less than 15 minutes. I have a fix planned that will be permanent, but I need to make some parts for it so it's on the back burner for now.

I took a look at what others are doing and decided that's not the route I want to take.

Yes this is a design issue. Too bad AS doesn't offer a proper fix.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by gator.bigfoot

< snip > I took a look at what others are doing and decided that's not the route I want to take.
< snip >

So, what are you going to do? C'mon share with the rest of us

[Airhead2018]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

I'm planning to add this and stop pulling on the handle.
Kudos to the forum member who posted this.

Thanks for posting this pic! I was thinking about doing this after our handle broke off and we had to improvise to get out.

[Silver.Sanctuary]

Originally Posted by Hicks3456

Same thing happened to us. Except I had to go out the emergency exit and go around to open the door. Airstream replaced the lock and screen. Airstream is aware of it but has not done anything to fix the problem.

When they were repairing the lock I was able to look at the mechanism and see how to manipulate the post to open with small screw driver. This would be a nice procedure for the owners manual.

Airstream needs to take a lesson from car manufacturers and come up with a system like on the back of many SUVs where the door shuts and the mechanism quietly and firmly pulls the door into a locked position.

[Airhead2018]

The problem is cheap pot metal parts. I took a suggestion from a previous post and installed a handle to close the door with. Hope it last!

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Airhead2018

The problem is cheap pot metal parts. I took a suggestion from a previous post and installed a handle to close the door with. Hope it last!

I respectfully disagree. The "problem part," the door handle is not cheap pot metal, it is cast aluminum and as a handle is quite adequate for the job. The problem is the way the handle is attached to the metal actuator place on the backside of the assembly: it is seeded.

The gold standard "fix" for this problem is to drill and tap the handle for a 1/4-20 machine screw and fender washer as shown in earlier posts. That "fix" is a ten-minute project and is a final fix and makes to footmans loop completely unnecessary.

[Airhead2018]

Originally Posted by RFP

I respectfully disagree. The "problem part," the door handle is not cheap pot metal, it is cast aluminum and as a handle is quite adequate for the job. The problem is the way the handle is attached to the metal actuator place on the backside of the assembly: it is seeded.

The gold standard "fix" for this problem is to drill and tap the handle for a 1/4-20 machine screw and fender washer as shown in earlier posts. That "fix" is a ten-minute project and is a final fix and makes to footmans loop completely unnecessary.

RFP, When our handle broke it was the handle itself meaning the part you grab came of in my hands and the part you describe drilling and tapping a 1/4-20 screw into was still attached to the door. So what was left was a little round knob to try and turn to get the door open. Your "gold standard" would still be attached as our factory standard was. I have a picture somewhere I can dig up if this is not a good explanation. Hope it doesn't happen to you our anyone else.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Airhead2018

RFP, When our handle broke it was the handle itself meaning the part you grab came of in my hands and the part you describe drilling and tapping a 1/4-20 screw into was still attached to the door. So what was left was a little round knob to try and turn to get the door open. Your "gold standard" would still be attached as our factory standard was. I have a picture somewhere I can dig up if this is not a good explanation. Hope it doesn't happen to you our anyone else.

Wow... No, your explanation is perfectly clear and really surprises me. Clearly I stand corrected in my assessment of this issue. This makes me wonder if the material used in your 'handle' is (was) different from that used in mine. My handle is clearly a cast aluminum piece. I'm wondering if yours was, indeed, cheap pot metal... If so, this changes everything.

Thanks for the update/clarification

Rob

[GettinAway]

Did AS change the handle at some point? I’ve never had issues with ours (2011)
We do have to close the door pretty firmly to get it to latch properly. We also can only lift up on the handle to unlatch it. It’s never concerned me, and has worked exactly the same way since new. Just wondering if this is something I should proactively tackle?

[jlandreth]

My 2019 Classic is the same way, you can only lift up on the handle. The door seems to close with out much effort but probably could be a little easier.

[Airhead2018]

Originally Posted by RFP

Wow... No, your explanation is perfectly clear and really surprises me. Clearly I stand corrected in my assessment of this issue. This makes me wonder if the material used in your 'handle' is (was) different from that used in mine. My handle is clearly a cast aluminum piece. I'm wondering if yours was, indeed, cheap pot metal... If so, this changes everything.

Thanks for the update/clarification

Rob

RFP, I'm not a metallurgist so I am guessing on the material. I did put a magnet on it and it acts like aluminum so you may be correct. Non the less it was a bad cast if nothing else and probably made in China. To get our door to close properly we need to give a pretty good tug on that handle and to me it's under engineered and doomed for failure.

[Barnyard]

Same thing happened to us at RV park near Tucson. LAZY Days RV worked us in and repaired same day using screw and washer to secure the handle. Technician thinks temporary fix is better than new. Kudos to LAZY Days! Lessons: keep tools in RV, don't close the door with handle, attach small pull bar, make sure wine is always available.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Airhead2018

< snip > To get our door to close properly we need to give a pretty good tug on that handle and to me it's under engineered and doomed for failure.

I am absolutely convinced that a lot of "door problems" are the result of improperly fitted/improperly adjusted Airstream doors. A properly fitted/adjusted door will open and close just like the family car's doors.

When my brother bought his brand new 28' FCFB, the dealer's representative told him that he would have to really slam the door hard to make it close. He droned on with some gobbledegook about Airstream doors really need a lot of force to operate properly. Sadly, my brother believed this weenie... until he experienced how an Airstream's door is supposed to work. The bottom line is that the dealer-guy was perfectly willing to give my brother a snow job about his new door (talk is cheap), but unwilling to adjust his door properly. Or, maybe even he didn't know.

* sigh *

[Airhead2018]

RFP, Like your brother we only know what we are told by certified Airstream techs, slam the door to get it to shut properly. I agree with you and hope we get the best Airstream Tech in on the planet when we go to JC who will enlighten us.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Airhead2018

RFP, Like your brother we only know what we are told by certified Airstream techs, slam the door to get it to shut properly. I agree with you and hope we get the best Airstream Tech in on the planet when we go to JC who will enlighten us.

I hope you do, too. Airstream door fitment may be more art than science, and it can take quite a lot of 'fiddling' to get it spot on, but once done, they really seem to 'stay that way.' As I said before, it's possible to make the door close just like that on a quality auto, requiring no more effort than that, and still be in full intimate contact with the rubber seal that water intrusion does't happen.

Here's wishing you good luck (although 'luck' probably has little to do with competent service.

[Mattirs]

There is a video someplace on the forum/YouTube that shows the art of adjusting an Airstream door.