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Old 12-27-2015, 09:33 AM   #15
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Gainesville , Florida
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I found the eternabond tape very effective and as permanent as the other sealants mentioned. Get the real stuff.

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Old 12-27-2015, 01:51 PM   #16
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1958 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 74
Originally Posted by parzam21 View Post
Thank you all for your the great advice as usual. However, I think the problem maybe well above my expertise and pay grade. I went to Home Depot and bought some aluminum tape in the Interem to tape around fans, which helped. However, I'm getting leaks from the seams as well. I have a feeling I'm going to need prose sealing and I'm 3000 miles away from home.
Any good suggestions to repairs facility or mobile guy in ATL?
you're in ATL come by my office we might be able to fix your issue at least for now without big cost until you assess it fully- i've got c10 (great for top surface) and a tube of vulkem i think. if anything we can see each others trailers and have a brew...
you should be able to contact me with my sig below if you want
or if i dare 678dot908dot9232
...i'm actually on the trailer now sealing a leak...

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Old 12-27-2015, 02:33 PM   #17
Len and Jeanne
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2005 16' International CCD
2015 19' Flying Cloud
Creston Valley , British Columbia
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We had some serious leaks with Bambi the First, but it was under warranty from the dealer, so we just took it back to them and let them deal with it. If we weren't near an AS dealer, we'd probably just go to a good general RV service center for caulking. We get a full diagnostic on our AS once every year or so, as we put a lot of miles on it, and ask them to check the roof, after our early experiences.

(Some of us just aren't that handy, and don't mind leaving things to the pros.)
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Old 12-27-2015, 02:46 PM   #18
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Naples, FL , Hood River, OR
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One thing not mentioned yet but is of extreme importance is FINDING THE LEAK SOURCE. There is really only one totally effective way to do this; place positive pressure inside the trailer and spray the outer shell with a soap solution.

The result will be bubbles at any leak point caused by air flowing from the inside of the trailer to the outside. Any other attempt, other than a verified visual point of water entry is just an excursive in futility in most cases.

Some RV dealers use a turbine based machine that uses a ceiling fan's frame as the entry for the air that will add pressure to the interior. Others have had some success using powerful leaf blowers sealed into a window opening to create the positive pressure. Either method will yield results that far exceed the hit and miss of trying to 'guess' where the leak is actually originating.

Lew Farber...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician...RVIA Certified Master Tech ...AM Solar Authorized Installation Center...AIRSTREAM Solar & Electrical Specialist...Micro Air 'Easy Start' Sales and Installations
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