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Old 10-10-2013, 10:49 AM   #15
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Dexter still and there are many distributes check with local trailer (boat or utility) dealers.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:58 PM   #16
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enosburg , Vermont
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'62 should have a torsion axle. I have heard rumors that some early '62s had springs. Either way get rid of it. An old "set" torsion X will destroy your hard work. Spindles on pre '62 Xs have a history of failing and tearing up the wheel well area. $700 for a new complete exact fit X and never give it another thought. Gonna be a pretty little thing.....
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:19 PM   #17
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Replace the axles, it's a upgrade that's worth it. At the very least, call Colin Hyde and get a quote. He's very competitive price wise and is a phone call away if you need help. Sometimes the early 60’s trailers aren't a direct bolt on and things need modification to fit correctly. His axles come assembled with brakes already on. He also will talk you though the process to help you choose the correct ratings.

As an extra bonus I've heard on The Vap ( The Vintage Airstream Podcast | Vintage Trailer Restoration ) that he intends to sell kits for a DIY aluminum interior endcaps, that might be something you are interested in.

His website is here;http:// colinhydetrailerrestorations.com

If you follow the link to my blog below you can see pictures of him doing the axles on my trailer last winter.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:32 AM   #18
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I did get a quote on the axle from colin, the total with shipping is going to be 815.00 I believe you should build your house on a good foundation, I think spending the money on a good axle will give me peace of mind down the road, literally. I am going to ask about the end cap kit, it would be awesome to get. I guess if I sat down and started to measure it, I could figure it out. I own a water jet and could cut the pieces with no scratching etc..
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:38 PM   #19
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Ok, so I tried using the citri strip for cleaning the paint/zolotone off, I guess im too impatient. I am gonna order 10 pcs of 2024 144x48 and reskin the whole inside. my only thought is should I just skin over the old skin? sounds bad but really not a huge weight difference, its going to add 175 lbs if I used all 10 sheets not subtracting the cutouts. anybody have any thoughts about that?
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:57 PM   #20
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Ok, so I tried using the citri strip for cleaning the paint/zolotone off, I guess im too impatient. I am gonna order 10 pcs of 2024 144x48 and reskin the whole inside. my only thought is should I just skin over the old skin? sounds bad but really not a huge weight difference, its going to add 175 lbs if I used all 10 sheets not subtracting the cutouts. anybody have any thoughts about that?
You should take all of the original skin panels out in order to remove all the mouse infested insulation, upgrade the AC & DC electrical systems & seam seal & install modern insulation. Although the weight addition may not be very significant, leaving all that funk in the walls is not the best way to restore an Airstream.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:01 PM   #21
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Colin, what type of insulation do you recommend replacing the original with? I do agree with you on replacing, the more I think about it the more I don't want to cover the or any problem.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:13 PM   #22
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Colin, what type of insulation do you recommend replacing the original with? I do agree with you on replacing, the more I think about it the more I don't want to cover the or any problem.
This is like asking Forum members what the best tow vehicle is I have used Reflectex, Prodex, Fiber Glass, Rigid foam & combinations of these. You can probably do a search for threads on these products & form your own opinion...................or listen to the VAP for my opinion.
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:22 AM   #23
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Jackson , Wyoming
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I am doing a 62 Overlander -

I personally really struggled with stripping the interior skins - I used gallons of citristrip, pressure washer...they still look terrible and LOT of time (many days) and money wasted relative to the cost of just buying new aluminum, which I'm going to end up doing now anyway. So props to you for that decision.

I would echo Colin's advice to pull them out, though. In my case, I discovered broken ribs, missing stringers, sheared rivets, obvious leaks, etc.. My insulation was actually rodent free, but definitely had retained 50 years of dust and smoking and cooking odors. Plus, the structural concerns would have been more difficult to identify and correct if I hadn't pulled it all out.

You've already entered the black hole...too late to turn back now
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:32 AM   #24
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Ok I have another question, What is the general consensus on the material type of the interior skin, enough material to reskin in 2024 is 1200.00 or I can use 3003 for 385.00 any thoughts?
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:56 AM   #25
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skin materials

You Guys better do some searching.....if your price aware. I just replaced all the interior skins on a 1956. I used .030 and 5052. The 5052 came with a clear plastic coat that protects the surface form marks during work. The 4x8 sheets were 30 dollars each. You can polish them too, if your so inclined.
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Old 10-22-2013, 10:03 AM   #26
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I am a bit concerned with the cost but I would like to know the the grade will be ok
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:34 PM   #27
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You're right to be concerned. Be certain you get the right grade. I screwed up bad once, ordered the wrong #. 4 ft X 12 ft for the ceiling. To soft, ripples everywhere. Used it on the curbside lower where it was mostly covered by cabinets & appliances. Reordered the proper hardness for the top. Smooth as glass. I've forgotten the #'s. Look through the skins and ribs section and get it right the first time. Look up post by Aerowood. He's the first one that comes to mind that really knows aluminum.
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:01 AM   #28
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Update!!

progress has been made, a new axle from inland rv and new wheels and tires...
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