Jack one side with tongue jack extended?

[Ridgerunner3]

Originally Posted by SeanWasHere

Thanks for so many helpful tips. I’m going to drop the tongue onto the TV. I’ll start with Rocco’s compass tip, partly because it seems like a super simple diagnostic test, and partly because I have a really nice orienteering compass that I like to find excuses to use. If all 4 “attract” the compass when brakes are applied, I’ll then check the wire connections. If it comes to the point of having to remove the wheels, I’ll use opposite side jack stands (not on the axle tubes) with the stands on sturdy wood as suggested by Wabbiteer and Gene.

I hope to do this next week, I wanted to form a plan before starting...I’m glad I waited, you have all provided lots of useful ideas. I was unaware the axle tubes are poor support points, to be honest, that’s exactly where I would’ve placed the jack and jack stands.

I’ll add an update as soon as I have more info.

-Sean-

I have used the compass method in the past. I had to get very close to the compass location on the wheel for the compass to react to the magnet. It may be the compass I used.

[rocco52]

I am not sure if anyone else mentioned this but there are defined and marked jack points on each side of the trailer about 2 feet behind the rear tires. Look for a rectangular metal plate that says "JACK"

[SeanWasHere]

Thank you, Rocco and Gene.

Ridge runner, do you recall the approximate position of the electromagnet? For example, is it near the 3 o’clock position, 6 o’clock position...?

-Sean-

[GCinSC2]

Bottom and you might hear a click as magnet smacks drum. It has a spring that pushes it back so it doesn’t constantly rub.

[A W Warn]

The magnet is at 6 o'clock, about 3" below the axle hub.

Those locations with the metal plate marking the location for jacking, designated by the decal that says "Jack", IMO are for lifting if one has the proper jack and the proper location to work. Most of us do not have floor jacks with large jack plates or a place to park on a solid surface.

This is my opinion based on maintaining my travel trailers in the driveway or back yard for about 50 years -> use those jack points only if you have the proper equipment and a level hard paved surface.

I've seen a few photos where people used a bottle jack on those designated jack points and the trailer moved only slightly but enough that the trailer slid off of the jack point and the extended jack penetrated the belly pan and floor.

When I jack up my trailers, as I have for several decades now, I use the axle mounting plate. This plate is directly behind the wheel, welded to the axle, bolted to the trailer frame. I did this yesterday on my 9,000 lb 34' Airstream.

The advantages of using the axle mounting plate as the jacking point:
1. It is designed to carry the load of the trailer.
2. If the trailer moves and the jack slides, it will not poke a hole in your trailer floor.
3. Keeping the jack low to the ground and keeping the length of the extended jack as short as possible reduces the tendency for the trailer to move.
4. Once the trailer is jacked up, the designated jack points are available for placing jack stands or cribbing (required for safety if you get beneath the trailer)

[Gene]

On ours, one of the jack plates was never attached. And yes, the trailer can shift when jacking or after. A jack stand is essential. I think if you can tow one axle up on wooden boards—2x10 or 12—the other wheel will be in the air and you can pull it that way. With one wheel on the boards, it is staying where it is (unless you stack the boards badly).

If one person activates the brakes from a tow vehicle, often you can hear the magnets engage when you are close to the wheels.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Gene

<<snip>> I think if you can tow one axle up on wooden boards—2x10 or 12—the other wheel will be in the air and you can pull it that way. With one wheel on the boards, it is staying where it is (unless you stack the boards badly).
<<snip>>

Good advice Gene!
This is probably the safest/easiest way to jack up one wheel on a tandem.

When I had my first three 1970's trailers the wood ramp was demonstrated in the owners manual. See page 13 in this manual>

https://cdn.airstream.com/wp-content...manual-134.pdf

I keep a home made wood ramp in my 25' that I use for jacking and for leveling. Cost ~ $10. The jack is still necessary in case of two flats at the same time.
There are other manufactured wedge options (Camco, Anderson, Easy Up, EZ Jack, Trailer Aid)

[SeanWasHere]

Thanks again for all the great advice! I was initially thinking of removing both wheels in order to do a side by side comparison, but I think I’ll start with the method Warn suggested, rolling the front wheel up onto blocks. Maybe the problem will be obvious enough that a comparison won’t be needed. I have a set of plastic stacking “LEGO” blocks. Unless y’all advise against it, I’ll use those.

I’ll keep the trailer on the hitch, put the scissor expansion thingy between the wheels on the opposite side and chock the wheels as well.

-Sean-

[SeanWasHere]

I mixed up a couple of your replies, it was Gene who suggested the idea of pulling onto blocks, Warn seconded the motion...thanks guys.

-Sean-

[Gene]

I have some of the “Lego” blocks and they eventually break. Ours have some cracks in places and though they haven’t fallen apart and we still use them, depending on them while a wheel is removed or your body is under the trailer may be a problem. I think the risk of a catastrophic failure is very small, the result is very big (sort of like playing with nukes). If a “Lego” thing fails while parked, no big deal; this is different. I think wood boards are still the safest. A 2x10 costs less than $10 I imagine and they’ll usually cut it up at the store if you don’t have a power saw. I cut mine with a bias on one end to make it easier for the tire to roll up. Another safety issue—sometimes while moving the tire up the boards, the board will pop out and be thrown back. No one should be standing nearby. This can also happen with ramps on smooth surface, such as my garage floor which the previous owner painted very smoothly with epoxy paint. It results in making it hard to drive up the ramps as they often keep being pushed forward. Even though things usually don’t go wrong, there are lots of ways for things to go wrong and if you do something enough times, you will find out.

[SeanWasHere]

Thanks Gene, I’ve gone a nice worm drive skil saw, I’ll buy a 2X10. Here’s a tip for the slick floor sliding boards problem. I back my vehicle into the garage and use a wheel chock to stop at the right place. It used to move around, so I cut some of that drawer anti slide rubbery-foam stuff to put under the chock...it doesn’t move now. The same would work for your blocks.

[Gene]

Thanks for the tip Sean. The solution is so obvious, neither of us thought of it. Barb buys that non-slip stuff by the mile.

Those worm drive saws are for serious work as long as you feed the worms electricity.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by rocco52

...snip
Look for a rectangular metal plate that says "JACK"

And then use the axle mount plate to jack it up.😂


Bob
🇺🇸

[Gene]

One plate was missing on ours. Just in case the plate was installed half off the frame, make sure there is frame underneath the entire plate. The belly pan is thin and you can feel the edges of the frame members with your hand though the pan.