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Old 04-25-2016, 06:30 PM   #1
New Member
1976 Argosy 24
pequannock , New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 2
Is it Repairable without the full Monty

Just recently bought a 1976 Argosy 24. Looked like it was in really good condition but i also had no clue what i was looking at when i bought it. I went with my gut and although im not that disappointed now that i have it apart i know i could have gotten a better deal. Oh Well! Im staying positive and im very hopeful I can turn this around. There was some rot in the front of the trailer from what looks like the copper piping that had corroded. Im Assuming most of the water came from the inside because the majority of the trailers subfloor is like New. I removed the subfloor up to the second cross bar and i don't think the frame damage is all that horrible... I may be wrong. Im going to attach some pictures because I want to know if i can expect that this is the worst part of the frame because of the water damage or if im better off ripping up the rest of the subfloor to get a better look at the rest of it (Which is a shame because like i said its like new) I was planning on upgrading to marine grade plywood so maybe its not that bad of an idea either way. Id like to keep this thing on the road for another 40 years.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:00 PM   #2
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Alcoa Roller's Avatar
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 91
If it was mine, I would stop right there. Hit the rust with a bristle grinder and throw on some Rustoleum or similar. I would not take out any floor that does not need replacing. Thats a lot of work for no return assuming the rest of the floor is in good shape. A little rust which it appears you have is not going to be a problem. It is 40 years old after all. I would save my efforts and headaches toward fixing those things that truly need it and not create stress with items that are in good condition. Have fun with your project.

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Old 04-25-2016, 07:39 PM   #3
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J. Morgan's Avatar

1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton , Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,066
Images: 11
I am with Alcoa 100%.

It is hard to tell from pictures sometimes, but the frame looks good enough to me with the exception of maybe one piece that will be a quick and easy fix shell on.

(If it needs it at all)

Superat stultitia.
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......

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Old 04-29-2016, 07:57 PM   #4
3 Rivet Member

1971 27' Overlander
Jackson , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 164
I agree with the above; in fact, 3/4 of my frame and floor were solid as new, and I left them as they were, plus a little paint.

I would strongly suggest, though, that you invest a relatively minor bit of work in dropping enough of your belly pan to get a look at the rest of the frame, especially in the back. Otherwise, you may create all that cool stuff above but build it on a foundation of rust flakes and mulch (like my trailer's back section). This is even more important since your goal is "another 40 years".

Have fun,
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:22 AM   #5
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1976 Argosy 24
pequannock , New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 2
I agree I need to get a good look at the rest of the frame I just realized I can drop the center of the belly pan without removing the entire thing. I plan on getting rid of the old insulation anyway because there were some mice living in there and it's pretty gross. Thankfully the back seems solid but I'm sure it won't be for long if I don't take care of the rust. Thanks for the feedback though it deffinately made me feel better getting some other opinions.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:29 AM   #6
1973 27' Overlander
1966 26' Overlander
Surrey , British Columbia
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 9
Possible damage

I agree with the others. The frame actually looks pretty good for a trailer of that vintage. Wire brush and treat any rust, then paint. Check the rear very carefully, particularly if it is a rear bath model. When you pull the bottom off you will see the tank supports, generally there isn't much left of them unless the trailer has been carefully sealed and or under cover most of its life. You may need to replace any galvanized boxes around the tanks as well. Easy stuff for a good metal shop to do. If the supports and tank covers are in great shape then you got a good one, consider yourself one of the lucky ones. Just make sure then that you seal everything with vulkem or a similar product, especially the lower seam all around the trailer. For what ever reason airstream started overlapping the sides of the trailer behind the lower wraps in the 70's, instead of flashing them on th outside like my 67. Makes no sense but they did it and as a result water can seep in, especially at the rear. Good luck, looks as though you have a great trailer there.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:36 AM   #7
1973 27' Overlander
1966 26' Overlander
Surrey , British Columbia
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 9
One last thing, I don't think you pulled the inner panels off, could be my vision alternatively. You will need to pull the panels prior to putting in a new floor. Not a big deal, just lots of rivets, then cut or grind out any support bolts and screws. They will no doubt all be rusted and not salvageable. Keep any floor pieces that you pulled if possible so you can copy the curved edge.

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